Stihl 026 Pro vs Non Pro

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ReggieT

ReggieT

Member
Aug 13, 2015
99
Birmingham, AL
I understand that the Pro 026 has a compensating carburetor, decompression valve, and adjustable oiler.
What I'm curious is whether the both versions max RPM at 14,000?
Is the Pro a better saw than the Non-Pro from you all's experience?
Last, but not least I have the chance to trade my mint 025 for about $75 difference for a "supposedly mint Non-Pro 026"...would you guys do the deal?!!!

Thanks
Reg
 
First of all, yes, I would do that trade in a heartbeat.

A non-pro 026 that is completely stock except for a thinner-than-standard base gasket under the cylinder is one of my favorite saws. I have also owned an MS250 (very similar successor to the 025) and a couple of MS260 pro's.

The 025 is a totally different saw, so I'll focus on the differences between the pro and non-pro versions of the 026.

The compensating carb makes no difference in ordinary use.

The decomp valve is a minor luxury but unnecessary on a 50cc saw unless maybe you have a medical or age-related condition that affects your arm strength or causes significant joint pain.

The non-adjustable oiler puts out plenty of oil, but besides lacking adjustability it isn't driven by the clutch drum which does bug me a bit. It pumps oil even at idle, and gets messy if you set the saw down and leave it running for more than a few moments, which you shouldn't do anyhow. I might swap in an adjustable oiler someday if I see the opportunity to do so cheaply.
 
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Jon1270 said:
First of all, yes, I would do that trade in a heartbeat.

A non-pro 026 that is completely stock except for a thinner-than-standard base gasket under the cylinder is one of my favorite saws. I have also owned an MS250 (very similar successor to the 025) and a couple of MS260 pro's.

The 025 is a totally different saw, so I'll focus on the differences between the pro and non-pro versions of the 026.

The compensating carb makes no difference in ordinary use.

The decomp valve is a minor luxury but unnecessary on a 50cc saw unless maybe you have a medical or age-related condition that affects your arm strength or causes significant joint pain.

The non-adjustable oiler puts out plenty of oil, but besides lacking adjustability it isn't driven by the clutch drum which does bug me a bit. It pumps oil even at idle, and gets messy if you set the saw down and leave it running for more than a few moments, which you shouldn't do anyhow. I might swap in an adjustable oiler someday if I see the opportunity to do so cheaply.
Click to expand...
Jon, I certainly appreciate it...just to further complicate matters...same guy just called and said his Dad has a MINT MS260 18 in bar with RSC and wants $225 for it ASAP! YIKES!!!!
 
Somehow I missed the "$75 difference" part of the trade proposition you mentioned up at the top. I'd say that with your having to add cash, it's merely an okay deal rather than a great deal you should jump on right away. I'd also be careful that the other guy's idea of what constitutes "mint" matches up with yours, because it seems like he's tossing the term around a lot, and I've seen it applied to some very heavily used saws. If yours is clean and shiny and fully functional while his is dirty/scratched-up/faded/visibly worn, then you can probably do better. Pay attention to the condition of the bar and chain as well.
 
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Jon1270 said:
Somehow I missed the "$75 difference" part of the trade proposition you mentioned up at the top. I'd say that with your having to add cash, it's merely an okay deal rather than a great deal you should jump on right away. I'd also be careful that the other guy's idea of what constitutes "mint" matches up with yours, because it seems like he's tossing the term around a lot, and I've seen it applied to some very heavily used saws. If yours is clean and shiny and fully functional while his is dirty/scratched-up/faded/visibly worn, then you can probably do better. Pay attention to the condition of the bar and chain as well.
Click to expand...

Hmm...great idea. It like I may be able to get it for less than the $75 difference...although my 025 has been "True Blue" to me and it excellent shape here are some pics...I've ran nothing but ethanol free and keep spiffy!
025sideview.jpg 025topview.jpg
 
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That 025 is nice looking. I just sold mine to a buddy with 2 chains for $200. We both thought it was a fair deal, but it wasn't near as nice as yours
 
The 026 is one of Stills best saws ever built. Exact same saw as the Pro version less the things you mentioned (that you will probably never need) But if they were side by side even up I would take the pro. I have the ms 360 pro version with same options offered on the 026 pro and never use them.(but it is a little cooler lol) I do use the decomp on the 360 occasionally but it has a lot more compression you won't use it on a 026. Next to a 200t its my all time favorite Stihl. And yes I would do the deal.
 
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ReggieT said:
I understand that the Pro 026 has a compensating carburetor, decompression valve, and adjustable oiler.
What I'm curious is whether the both versions max RPM at 14,000?
Is the Pro a better saw than the Non-Pro from you all's experience?
Last, but not least I have the chance to trade my mint 025 for about $75 difference for a "supposedly mint Non-Pro 026"...would you guys do the deal?!!!

Thanks
Reg
Click to expand...
My non-pro 026 also has an adjustable oiler. I don't need the decompression valve. As far as I can see that valve is the entire difference.
 
Oldman47 said:
My non-pro 026 also has an adjustable oiler. I don't need the decompression valve. As far as I can see that valve is the entire difference.
Click to expand...


I forgot about that. Some of the non pro versions also had the decompression valve too.
 
Dang ReggieT, my first saw was an 025 passed down from my grandfather and I wish it looked as good as yours. I love that saw.
 
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I had no idea what the differences where when I bought my 026 pro. I just love to have quality and don't mind paying for it. But from day one the adjustable oiler is wide open, because I didn't see a lot of chain oil. I do like the decompression valve. It makes the drop starting that you should never do very easy. Actually I rarely do that, but any starting is so effortless with it. I wonder why they don't put that on more saws.
 
VAfarmer38 said:
Dang ReggieT, my first saw was an 025 passed down from my grandfather and I wish it looked as good as yours. I love that saw.
Click to expand...
Thanks...sorry its been such a long time on the forum...been traveling and staying wide open!
I decided to keep my 025...and the guy kept raising his trading difference to where it was ridiculous!
 
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In my neck of the woods a 026 is worth 100 more easily all things equal. I buy and sell Stihls occasionally and I see lots of 250s asking 175 to 200 that don't sell. 026 or ms 260 pro or not gets 250 to 350 and they don't last on the market long. Sometime people don't know what they have and you can pickup a great deal if you keep watch. I traded 200 dollars worth of floor tile for my ms 360 pro in mint condition.
 
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Jazzberry said:
In my neck of the woods a 026 is worth 100 more easily all things equal. I buy and sell Stihls occasionally and I see lots of 250s asking 175 to 200 that don't sell. 026 or ms 260 pro or not gets 250 to 350 and they don't last on the market long. Sometime people don't know what they have and you can pickup a great deal if you keep watch. I traded 200 dollars worth of floor tile for my ms 360 pro in mint condition.
Click to expand...
Amen brother...you are correct I see tons of MS250's...very few 025's although.
My friend likes his 026 better than his 028!!:rolleyes:
 
I bet if your ms 250 was an 026 pro in the same condition you could get $500 for it around here. It has a legendary following similar to the 200t / 020t


ReggieT said:
Hmm...great idea. It like I may be able to get it for less than the $75 difference...although my 025 has been "True Blue" to me and it excellent shape here are some pics...I've ran nothing but ethanol free and keep spiffy!
View attachment 160877 View attachment 160878
Click to expand...
 
I ended up purchasing a non pro 026 off craigslist and am very happy w/ it. One thing I did before looking at used saws was to purchase a compression tester. I actually passed on one 026 that had low compression and ended up getting a better deal on another 026 w/ great compression. If you find an 026 around $200 jump on it but make sure it hasn't been abused
 
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jlightning said:
I ended up purchasing a non pro 026 off craigslist and am very happy w/ it. One thing I did before looking at used saws was to purchase a compression tester. I actually passed on one 026 that had low compression and ended up getting a better deal on another 026 w/ great compression. If you find an 026 around $200 jump on it but make sure it hasn't been abused
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice...where did you buy yours?
Could you walk me through how you utilize it...I've seen tons of pics with them hooked up and displaying the reading...but never saw the actual steps to do so.
 
ReggieT said:
Could you walk me through how you utilize it...I've seen tons of pics with them hooked up and displaying the reading...but never saw the actual steps to do so.
Click to expand...

Thread adapter in hand tight - making sure O ring seats well
Set throttle at WOT with cable tie
Pull until gauge goes no higher - normally 5-6 pulls

The problem with cheap gauges on tiny 2 cycles is they tend to read extremely low. I have 2 from HF and they'll say I have 70 PSI from a good running, strong saw, where PSI is probably 120 PSI. I don't use them and rely on rope pull feel as piston approaches and passes TDC. If you want to accurately measure PSI, get a good gauge like OTC at ~$50. Or if you see a Matco, it's probably an OTC.
 
One step further would be to pull the muffler off and look at the piston for any scoring.
 
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