Heat going up or not?
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mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
If you go the wood furnace route you will need to install ducting, or do you already have it for the AC?
Oh, that's what I thought. I don't have anything like it, I'll stick to the wood stove plan.
I'm going tomorrow to meet "in person" the Summit and the Osburn bros (2300-2400) to make my choice.
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
So I went to the store to choose the stove, and when the dealer saw the installation (the photo I posted earlier on), he stopped right there and explained to me everything that was wrong with it. The clearances, the single tube going trough the wall, the covering under the stairs, etc. And no, i didn't have it inspected yet. I'll do it. I'm a beginner, shall I repeat. We haven't signed yet, so that's good for us. But now, i'm pretty nervous, and moving in a month.
So, that's how my first date went, Swedishchef.
I'm posting the photo again so you can have a look.
So, that's how my first date went, Swedishchef.
I'm posting the photo again so you can have a look.
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Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
Yes, there are clearance and installation issues, that is true. A SS liner would be the best or a CLass A chimney with Tee and thimble. But you have a brick chimney right?
That being said, what is the distance from the back of the stove to the wall? If you had double wall stove pipe with 2 X 45s instead of 1 X 90, you may be able to get away with the clearances.
Andrew
That being said, what is the distance from the back of the stove to the wall? If you had double wall stove pipe with 2 X 45s instead of 1 X 90, you may be able to get away with the clearances.
Andrew
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
No, it's not a brick chimney, but a prefab beginning on the other side of the wall, in the wood chamber, going inside trough the first floor, and then outside for the second floor.
I think the back of the stove of clear, even more if I get a new one. What worries me is the tube going through the wall, and the back of the stairs, for what I know. But then again, I don't know much, and I haven't moved yet, so I can only look at the photo
Anyway, I got an inspection for the end of the month. I'm wondering if I can require the current owner - who installed the chimney - to pay for the changes to make.
quotejso
Feeling the Heat
I think the cost is on you but what do I know. Anyways I would get the biggest stove that pleases the eye within your budget. Shop around.
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
You could easily put a PROPER heat shield on your staircase. That isn't a big deal. A new SS Class A Chimney would be in order. It could cost around $1200 depending on the height of the chimney but I think it would be well worth the investment.
So you have NOT purchased the house yet?? Just visited? If so, you could certainly ask them to pay for those repairs as a condition of the purchase...
A
So you have NOT purchased the house yet?? Just visited? If so, you could certainly ask them to pay for those repairs as a condition of the purchase...
A
We're quite in the process of buying, signing the papers at the end of the month. The transaction sure is conditional to the inspection, so we'll see. But it's kind of hard to get an inspector at that time of the year without waiting 3 weeks at least...
Seanm
Minister of Fire
Around here a stove has to be wett certified in order to use it. It may have been in there for so many years that the owner simply isnt aware of how insurance and wood stove installs have changed over the years. With regards to insurance companies what was good for the previous owner may not be good for the next owner and that goes for so many things, not just wood stoves. It can go either way. There is no set rule on how this should play out and depends on so many factors.
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
In Quebec, as everything else (sigh..) it is a little different. Some insurance companies state that if your setup meets the installation guidelines, then it's all good and they'll take your word for it. That being said, we don'T have WETT in Quebec, we have the APC ( http://www.poelesfoyers.ca/ ) which is a Quebec version of WETT.
Here is a list of places in Quebec that have various levels of certification. Call the nearest one to you and ask them to inspect asap!
http://www.poelesfoyers.ca/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=3&Itemid=273
A
Here is a list of places in Quebec that have various levels of certification. Call the nearest one to you and ask them to inspect asap!
http://www.poelesfoyers.ca/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=3&Itemid=273
A
Seanm
Minister of Fire
Hey good to know, I learned something.
Yeah it does doesn't it? I've heard it so long I don't think about it anymore. It stands for Wood Energy Technology Transfer.
baysideburner
Member
t: 1978143, member: 46531"]Hi there,
A dealer told me yesterday that you don't measure your real heat space by simply adding each floor's square feet together, but by counting only half the space of the floors above the stove, considering that the heat is going up.
But then again, some other people told me that heat doesn't go up that easy, that you have to make it go up, and that your stove is never too big, etc.
My new house has a 840 sf area with the stove in the basement and two stories up, with the bedrooms upstairs. So I have around 2400 sf, but with the first idea in mind, i'd be okay with a 2000 sf stove, rather than a 2500-3000 sf.
I was aiming at Pacific Energy, going all the way with the Summit, but the Super 27 might be what I need.
Am I going wrong?
I'm kind of new to real wood-burning, and i'm moving by the end of october, in time for heat season, so I want to make the right move!
Thanks a lot.[/quote]
Is that a timberline
Hi Mogasse- from the basement get all you can get. The Osburn stoves 2300 and 2400 are heat hammers. The new version of the 2300 (taller firebox, taller front door) is slightly bigger firebox than 2400, but 2400 has more mass. We sell both of them, am waiting to get input back on the 2300 hanging with the 2400, I'd still give the edge to the 2400, but don't care for the east/west loading in the 2400. Anyway, all three you are considering, they all will be great heaters. I like the Osburn stoves for their good value, but the PE Summit is a great stove, great design. I think you'd be happy with any of them. (The Drolet too.) PS: Love that basement.
Thank you for that, Stovelark. Looking forward to read your comments on the 2300 vs 2400.
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
Gotta remember one thing, which help me pick the 2300: the bypass damper. Due to the depth of the firebox, the bypass damper allows you to get the flu warmed up faster. I usually leave my bypass open for 5-10 minutes (I keep an eye on my flu temps) and then close it. On reloads, I don't get any smoke roll out as once again, I open the bypass which is at the rear of the firebox. My chimney setup isn't ideal (outside, 20 stack but with 2X45s inside and a T) The 2400 doesn't have that option and I would likely get more smoke spillage which my wife kindly brings up from time to time
Andrew
Andrew
Ram 1500 with an axe...
Minister of Fire
15 cords a winter, wow again, to be ahead of the game you need 45 to 60 cords of wood, I don't know what else to say ....
Swedishchef
Minister of Fire
It's impossible to burn 15 cords in a winter...no? Perhaps face cords...because at 15 cords, you'd be working non-stop getting wood for 5 months!!
A
A
Yes, sounds more like face cords. The old wood burner may be a hungry beast, but not that hungry. The old stove looks seriously overfired. I've glad you and the insurance company are insisting on a makeover.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is the difference between face and regular cords?
A cord is 128 cu ft. or three 4ft high x 8ft wide stacks of 16" wood. A face cord is one third that amount. Or a 16" wide stack 4'x8'.
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