New PS50 - 2 issues

The holes my cab 50 burnpot are the same. I never looked in there while buring but from cleaning I noticed that. Not sure about your first issue. Have u read the troubleshooting manual

i'm not sure exactly why, but that gap above the ash drawer is part of the design.
i have mine OAKed, so if the gap had anything to do w combustion air supply, i really stopped caring.

i sealed it with high temp silicone. i think the air wash works a bit better this way too.
if you are not running an OAK, it is probably best to leave it as is.

as for the start up issue, try opening up the feed gate a bit. it takes some time ( or cycles of the reset button) to fill the auger tube with the new higher volume of pellets the more open gate will allow in.
but once it's running at that setting and delivering more pellets per turn, your fire shouldn't go out after initial proof of fire.

i suppose you could restrict the draft to make the pellets burn slower, but imo the draft should always be wide open.

i've had my PS50 going into 5 seasons now, and i have had this happen before when i switched pellets, and also at the beginning of a season or 2 for some reason.

as you said, once it gets enough pellets by you using the reset, it works fine.
that shows that all systems are working except the amount of pellets being delivered.

make small adjustments in the feed gate, wait for the tube to fill at the new rate, and test the result.

ooh. that makes it more difficult.
at least it works as it should in all other regards.

the damper is a little trap door located under the ash pan. every instal is different, and you may be getting too much air for start up.
you could try closing that flap in very small increments. myself, i would prefer to have the draft fully open. i think it is fairly unusual for there to be too much air coming in. but as mentioned, every stove/set up is potentially a little different.
and if you slow it down just a tiny fraction, it may allow the initial pellets to last long enough to get the stove into full burn.
and also it may behave differently once the OAK is hooked up.

there is a way to increase the feed rate from the control box.
it's meant for high altitude situations and is not usually recommended for fixing other issues. but you can increase the auger turns in 10% increments.
i don't remember how it's done, and you should exhaust all other options first and then ask your dealer.

this isn't intended for fixing normal feed issues. so really only as a last resort would i even begin to consider this.

have you tried the dollar bill test on the stove ? you want to see if the front door seals tightly .... we are going into our 4th full season with ours......you will get it figured out...hang in there........

How far is your thermocouple sticking out into the burn pot? mine sticks out around a inch into the burn pot.

Did different pellets make any difference? Where is your feed gate set at?

Only time mine won't feed enough in on start up is when the hopper runs completely out.

Could there be something stuck in the auger flights not allowing a full flow of pellets?

It may be feeding enough to keep the stove from going into shutdown but is the feed being choked and your new stove not ever able to go to full fire and the only indication of the problem is that the startup cycle is not getting to temp. I have seen the problem often on multifuel stoves with a piece of corn cob, dead mouse or moldy fuel still allowing some fuel feed.

Bioburner said:

Could there be something stuck in the auger flights not allowing a full flow of pellets?

Click to expand...

i had sawdust build up at the top of the auger channel, but that was after i had the stove a few seasons. it did restrict the full flow of pellets.

perhaps not saw dust yet, but maybe some pellets that are still allowing the auger to turn yet shrinking the opening.
stick a stiff wire up there and poke around. to rule out the possibility if nothing else.

The control board light flashes twice when the stove is plugged in?