Echo CS 346 and its chainsaw noob

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hardwaregrrl

hardwaregrrl

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Sep 17, 2015
48
Atlanta
i have never been taught to properly utilize a chainsaw and I bought the Echo about 6 or so years ago. I've used it sparingly so since it will be used more I'll replace the filters and plug. Any other maintenance you suggest?? How about videos of proper usage. More than likely it will be just cutting small stuff to stove length as I'm a scrounger...I do to plan to fell trees but not for a bit. I need to get the hang of everything I've currently got before I start a new endeavor. I have a sawbuck that I use.

I've read a few things about modifying the muffler and richening the carb to get a bit more power out of this guy....if anyone could speak to that it would help. And I was reading about getting a different type of chain for more bite.....not sure about that one. I've been in construction for 25 years so I'm versed on saw kickback from circs, worms, and recips....but a chainsaw I'm sure is way different. Any advice is appreciated....wish I had a tree buddy to teach me but I do not currently.

If I were to need a larger saw once I start removing standing dead trees and recommendations coming from the Echo? Thanks all! I appreciate your knowledge and patience.
 
I would recommend getting comfortable with the saw as it stands. Nothing wrong with the mods or going with a more aggressive chain, but the kinder, gentler version is a good version to learn on. Some folks will be along to point our some good videos to watch (I hope).

Get your PPE in line (personal protection equipment) if you haven't already. I won't even start my saw without the chaps on. Just take one look at your avatar and tell me its not the smart thing to do...;):cool:
 
hardwaregrrl said:
I've been in construction for 25 years so I'm versed on saw kickback from circs, worms, and recips....but a chainsaw I'm sure is way different.
Click to expand...

Sorta different, but not completely. Chainsaw kickback happens when the chain bites into something *as it goes around the top half of the nose of the bar.* It's just that little quarter of a radius that's the danger zone, and cutting in that area tends to force the bar upward and back, likely throwing it at some part of your body very quickly and in a way that is difficult to resist. The saw will act predictably when cutting with any other part of the bar, but keep that upper half of the tip away from wood unless you're plunge cutting.
 
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Maintenance is pretty simple. Clean air filter, good fire from plug, proper carb mixture. Do you need to replace air filter and plug? Compressed air blown upstream / backwards can make a filter like new. Plugs get replaced a lot but they rarely fail. It's only a $3 part, tho. Pull your plug and look it over. Carb cleaner and compressed air can clean the electrode area. Then insert plug back in boot and ground on fins. Pull rope. How does spark look? Tuning H-L screws is important as so many saws come lean from the factory. Search youtube How to tune a chainsaw. Here is a good one.
 
Nothing to add to the excellent responses above, but wanted to say that's a kick-ass avatar!
 
Ha!!! Thanks guys!!! I've got protection :) but no chaps. I'll grab a set. Helmet, sheild,hearing protection, steel toes and gloves. I'm pretty comfortable bucking and limbing with it cleared a shooting land of pines the other day for a few hours. I think my oil pimp filter might be clogged gotta check that. I don't have the kickback tip installed.

Thanks for the advice. Saw a good deal on an Echo timber wolf. 250$ used twice by a homeowner. Looking into getting a permit to cut in national forest and WMAs...but that'll be next year.

I'm gonna watch those videos now!! Thanks all
 
Failure to deliver oil is most often a clog in bar journal, or where bar meets saw body. Remove bar, clear oiler holes in side of bar, clear bar groove with a groove cleaning tool or scrap of sheet metal.
 
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Another vote for PPE... Chaps. Get them and use them.
When you do start felling, you mentioned cutting standing dead, be aware, always, of what's above you. Look for limbs hung up on the branches. Take the time to clear away brush on the ground and have a clear escape route. Study the tree. The weight of the branches, the angle the tree is tilted, bends or twists. You can do a lot to manipulate the fall, but, only to a point. Be mindful of wind, too.
And use the chaps!
 
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Husqvarna has a good set of educational videos available online on youtube and elsewhere. They are European in origin, and are easy to understand and the guidance and advice is solid. Watch them.
 
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