NC 30 Fit Like A Glove

Don't worry john ,-3c night time low on saturday. It's coming

Looks great. There are a bunch of us on here that have stuffed a NC30 into a fireplace.

They should be tight together, and pushed all the way to the back of the stove. Opening in the front near the door.

There will be a gap between the boards when they're installed. You want them pushed all the way to the back of the stove.

I used a solid metal rod down the middle of the two boards to help cover the space that's left. Pretty sure I read that tip on this site.

If they fit tight together there is no need to fill the seam.

You are going to like that stove.

I've burnt mine 3 times so far to burn it in. I love it , can't keep my eyes off of those secondaries.

Wait it until it gets cold. It will run even better.

johnpma said:

Thank you, I will give that a try. Also I noticed that the guy who sold be the stove gave me the fire bricks that were in good shape. One of the bricks had about a 15 degree bevel on the end. I thought it was cracked however I believe now that this brick is suppose to go on the inner latch side of the stove as a lead for the inner stove latch rod to engage????

Click to expand...

yes that is the place so the latch can close but it really doesn't seem necessary.

Good to see you are having success with the NC30, they are solid stoves. As far as the black glass you may have an up hill battle, if you have a shorter flue you will have weaker draft, even with the supply air open you aren't getting the pull you need so you will have build up on the glass. If you running a shorter stack it is even more important to make sure your fuel is dry as possible.
You may want to try adding a 3ft section of black pipe to see if it improves the burning, if it does you will want to buy an anchor plate and a section of class a pipe for the top of your chimney. Colder weather also improves draft so it may not be necessary to do any of this once the cold settles in.

IR thermometer or probe thermometer.

You want the top of the stove in the 550 - 600 range, also remember not to shoot the glass, it will give a false reading

you can get different thermometers to read different temps at different locations of the stove. i know my rutland is a coil that takes time to warm up, so its temp reading is innacurate during cold start. from watching my chimney outside i know roughly know which temp on the rutland corresponds to a smoke free chimney. you wont really need to use a thermometer anyway once you learn to recognize and maintain the proper lazy secondary flames that you can best see with your eyes, not a therm.

I use an NC30 in my workshop. I run it hard and can tell you that you need a stovetop thermometer in the hottest place of the stove top which is right in the middle of the little step on top. I use a condar stove top meter and find it matches my IR temp exactly but the IR gun requires a proper method too. You need to be close to the target for best accuracy like a foot away and aim well, the IR gun needs to be at room temperature.

If you don't monitor temps you can overfire this stove and melt the insides. The airwash plate right at the top of the door opening is particularly weak and susceptible to melting. I monitor and aim for a peak temp of 700-750. Regardless of secondary combustion activity you need to not overfire the stove.

Perhaps your rutland is a dud. I have a rutland on the stove pipe and find it also matches the IR gun exactly. That is, unless I have a box fan blowing on it. You do know that the magnetic thermometers are cooled and give a low reading when there is a fan blowing on them right?