Getting ready for my hampton insert install

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We always have a straight a 15 degree and a 30 degree appliance adapter when we go to install an insert. I think the 15 degree one gets used the most often.
 
I left room in my block off plate to bend the liner to meet my hampton, has been working great
 
The insert is out of storage since my move!

Hardy board is fine to raise the fp floor to meet brick yes? I figure thinset it level... 20151014_194946~2.jpg20151014_210052.jpg
 
The insert is out of storage since my move!

Hardy board is fine to raise the fp floor to meet brick yes? I figure thinset it level...View attachment 163814View attachment 163816
Nice! Did the same with the cement board and used leveling legs no thinset. I put enough cement board so that floor of firebox and hearth were even. Stove could then slide right in.

If you have room you might want to insulate the back and sides of the firebox. I was measuring temps of 80 deg on the brick outside at the level starting at the upper firebox and in the area of the smoke shelf until I insulated. Mellow created a good thread on this.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/finally-got-around-to-insulating-my-fireplace.75755/
 
I do have room and will add safe and sound cause thats what i have! The sides are actually not exterior, left is the wood cubby and rt the garage. Ill still add it there also.
 
Thanks for that link too! I will add hardie board i have left over to the back also.
I wish i could get that roxul board around here, that would work well on the sides.
 
Is this what you guys use with the straight appliance adaptor? Or do they make an angled appliance adaptor where the liner would fit in it?
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Thanks for that link too! I will add hardie board i have left over to the back also.
I wish i could get that roxul board around here, that would work well on the sides.

I looked for Roxul board too. Found it online but I think it was pricey after shipping. In my case I used Roxul batt covered w/ spare sheetmetal from the plate and it worked fine. Was effectively only able to do the back of the firebox due to clearances but still made a nice improvement in that area. Where I gained the most was above the block-off plate. I stuffed around the liner where it passed into the clay tile as well as I could probably at least 3-4' up, completely filled the area above the old damper and the smoke-shelf, then again filled below the damper down to the block-off which is about 3" above the top of the unit.
 
So it looks like the 15* will make liner fit nice, problem is that the crimp side (stove top) goes into the other half making it not correct for creosote leakage. Is it ok still since its a swivel type crimp joining the 2?
 
Got it in today, That ss block off plate was a pita to bend!
Overall not too bad, ended up using 30* twisted to fit my liking. Insulated back of fp and covered with hardie board.
Wifes happy, kids ran in from outside and warmed them selves! Barbies have now taken over hearth!
Just a little more adjusting, extending the hearth and a cherry mantle are next.

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Excellent and not a moment too soon, it cooled off all of a sudden.
 
Was just thinking about the ss smoke shield i saw a post on, sure enough mine doesnt have one! Manual says 2008! Well it still was never burned, he told me it was 3 or 4 yrs old.
Wonder if they just added it to existing box and could we just order one and screw it in. Ill have to look at my buddys i installed last year.
 
Looked at my buds hampton, ss smoke shield looks the same as older model but its removable and ours have a welded angled piece.
Does the face plate require insulation like the manual states? Or having everything sealed up with a blockoff plate negates it
 
Looked at my buds hampton, ss smoke shield looks the same as older model but its removable and ours have a welded angled piece.
Does the face plate require insulation like the manual states? Or having everything sealed up with a blockoff plate negates it
No need for the insulation. And yes they changed the design the welded ones can warp and crack we have had to cut out a few and bolt new ones in place. If yours starts to warp you should do it because eventually it could damage the rest of the stove
 
Good info thanks, wheres best place to get that ss smoke shield?
 
Good info thanks, wheres best place to get that ss smoke shield?
We just have them made up at a local machine shop but you could order one from regency
 
We just have them made up at a local machine shop but you could order one from regency

I can have sleepyhollow bend me one up!
 
Lol i guess so!
Just picked up a couple of storm collars, 1 for up top and one for covering the wider block off plate hole, never seen collars like this! Pretty cool.
I have about 9-10" or so of liner sticking up past my chimney, storm collar and cap with storm collar, this is fine correct? I was thinking of taking some extra liner insulation and wrapping it with aluminium tape. Prolly just a waist of time as it wont change any creosote build up...20151022_172820~2.jpg
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I would trim that down for sure it will build up creosote pretty fast sticking up like that. That is just a standard storm collar pretty much all we use. Insulation will just get wet up there and do no good anyway
 
So i should cut it dwn to where the cap storm collar would take place of the collar i have on there now?
 
So i should cut it dwn to where the cap storm collar would take place of the collar i have on there now?
If you cut it down that low how would you attach the cap?
 
The cap slides into the liner like 5 inches or so
 
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