ambull01
Feeling the Heat
How is the heat output with your 30 stuffed in a fireplace? I'll have to do the same thing.
NC 30 Fit Like A Glove
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How is the heat output with your 30 stuffed in a fireplace? I'll have to do the same thing.
It's great. As mentioned I had to use an offset adapter box to get it to work but it really puts out some heat and the burn time is pretty darn good. Still learning though, it loves super dry wood for sure.
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
Had to look up "offset adapter box" as I've never heard of it. That may help with my install as well. Also noticed last night I may have to chisel out the chimneys damper frame. Not sure how hard that will be. It looks like I'll have to make the chimney pipe/liner into an oval shape to get it through the chimney's damper area if I leave the frame.
I'm a bit nervous about my wood supply. It's been cut/split/and stacked for about a year so hopefully that's enough time. I may also use a heavy steel chimney plate thing the previous owner left behind. I'm thinking about placing the steel plate behind the stove to soak up more radiant heat.
I had the exact same issues with the steel up inside (damper plate) I did just that kinda crushed the liner making it oval and passed it thru the restricted area. Probably not the best choice but it works and a brush passes thru no problem. I stuffed a bunch of roxul insulation up inside and made a 2pc sheet metal blockoff plate and installed it. I bought my NC-30 used and it did not have a blower. I installed a blower I had off of my old stove that I replaced. I have year old wood that I split into small splits. Its mostly cherry and maple and burns just fine. I found that it's important to get a good hot fire going first with kindle. For kicks I also bought a few packs of those fuel blocks from Tractor Supply and tried them. They burned very well also. I buy a ton of these on Black Friday. They are easy for the little lady to add to the stove when she get home for work and has things to do, yet keep the fire burning and the heat going for her
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
So the blower is what forced you to use the offset adapter I presume? I did some quick measurements and I may have to do the same thing. I'm hoping I don't need the blower (my insert's blower was a bit loud and annoying) but it will suck if I install everything without the blower then wish I had it on. I plugged the free blower in last night to test the sound level. Seems quiet compared to my insert's blower. Now I'll need to tell my wife I have to chisel/cut out the wood trim from the front of the chimney, buy an offset adapter, stove collar with a damper, SS liner, single wall stove pipe, hearth mat with R1.5 rating, and rent a bucket lift lol.
Actually, the stove has an ash drawer. I trimmed 1" off the legs to get it to fit. I did not want to lower it to the floor all the way so my only simple option based on the height of my fireplace opening was this offset adapter box. Bought it on "flea-bay" (ebay)
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
Actually, the stove has an ash drawer. I trimmed 1" off the legs to get it to fit. I did not want to lower it to the floor all the way so my only simple option based on the height of my fireplace opening was this offset adapter box. Bought it on "flea-bay" (ebay)
Wait, how did the ash drawer force you to use the offset adapter? I thought the adapter was used if the stove pipe/liner couldn't go straight up the chimney's flue?
Yes that is one reason. The other is vertical height allowance with the legs on the stove. Even if I ran a 90 out of the top of the stove to a "T" attached to my liner I would be too high vertically to make the connection. The Offset box is only about 3" or less tall by 8" wide.
does your r value requirement for floor protector increase when you make the legs shorter? lol
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
Sorry for all my questions, trying to figure this all out before I start my installation. Couldn't you have just used stove pipe attached to the liner then attach the pipe to the stove's collar? Or maybe what you're saying is the stove would still be too long? I would think you could have trimmed the liner a bit to accept the height of the stove pipe.
I found a fixed elbow to be best for connection of the 30 in the fireplace. It allows me to drop a rope and pull the brush down into the firebox and be done with brushing the chimney in short order without taking anything apart.
Not an option for me as my fireplace cavity did not have the depth to line up the stove collar center-line with the liner center-line
Good question...maybe no clue. Had my stove top temp a 550 degrees F and shot beneath the stove with the IR gun and got 130 degrees F
I like that set-up but would have to lower my stove pretty low for this applicationI found a fixed elbow to be best for connection of the 30 in the fireplace. It allows me to drop a rope and pull the brush down into the firebox and be done with brushing the chimney in short order without taking anything apart.
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
Nice. I'm planning on using the Sooteater to clean the liner. I have to say though, since you're a 30/wood heating expert, I expected your block off plate to look a bit more professional lol. I like the plate @mellow uses. Just have to figure out how to make it.
Oh I see. So the ash pan increased the height of the stove which left out options. Finally got it lol.
Get back to me after you work inside that fireplace with the stove in place connecting the liner.
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
Get back to me after you work inside that fireplace with the stove in place connecting the liner.
I'm sure the rest of my installation will be simple lol. It's going to be a real tight fit in there once I slide the stove in.
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
Haha, BB is right, that is why I punched a hole in the back of my exterior chimney and put in a clean out door. When you have a tendency to switch out inserts like I do it makes life alot easier.
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
ambull01
Feeling the Heat
With a 100 degree drop in temp, the clearance would still be too close right? The mantel's wood trim will be bone dry so it wouldn't take a lot of heat to set it off. I wish they made a diagonal top heat shield that I could attach to the back of the stove and sort of funnel the heat out into the room.
No matter what is done the clearance is much too close with the stove in that location. Heat shielding would be inadequate to trust. I would peel off the old mantel and think about a new way to finish that area with non-combustibles.
Snotrocket
Feeling the Heat
It works great. My fireplace is right in the center of the house, and the thermal mass of the fireplace itself helps tremendously.
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