Log Length... pertaining to stove specs

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sean b

Member
Oct 19, 2015
90
Central PA
When stove specs state that a stove will take 'up to 18" logs', is 18" generally it? Or can a 19" log usually be elbowed in? I'm sitting on about 14 cords of split, stacked and seasoned hardwoods and want to make sure that I don't end up with a stove that will force me to sell some of it or cut it shorter. Most of what i have is 18", give or take an inch. How critical is it?
 
It depends upon the stove. If you add that information to your signature, it would help get better answers. I have found that you can always put slightly longer pieces in first, then jam some shorter ones in to fill the stove. You should be OK.
 
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Well I would have to say the only way to know for sure is to break out the tape measure. My stove is rated for 18" length and the max dimension is 18.5"
 
my stove is rated for 20" max length size so anything smaller is ok with me.I dont have alot of width space since my stove is a downdraft type that has a chamber that takes up the back part of the stove.Most of my wood is used in a east /west position in the stove.Ideal length for me is about 16 inches.
 
Don't think he has a stove yet.
Like they said above, each stove is a little different, but I find that both of my stoves work best at or under the max log length size.
The Oslo will take up to a 24, think its rated at 20, but put some ashes in there and a hot bed of coals, it gets tricky loading it.18 to 20s are best.
Shelburne says 18", that's the absolute max for fitting them straight through the door. I can wedge a 19 in there, but I can't put 4 19" logs in there, I can put 4 18" logs. ...

Bring one of your bigger sticks of wood with you while shopping.
 
Even if you could squeeze in the occasional over sized piece of wood I don't think it's worth the anguish that goes along with making the attempt. Most of your loading is going to be "reloading", which means you'll be putting a piece of wood into a hot stove. The last thing you want to experience is getting a big split of wood into your stove only to discover that it won't let you shut the door after the split has already caught fire. A general rule of thumb for burning is to allow at least one inch of space on each end of a split (preferably two inches) for best burning. My Jotul F600 can take 24" splits, but I generally cut my wood no longer than 21" since that is the maximum length my 7 ton electric splitter can take.
 
The last thing you want to experience is getting a big split of wood into your stove only to discover that it won't let you shut the door after the split has already caught fire.
Yep, that really stinks::-) Mine is rated at 21 and I can get a 22 in there. I cut most of mine to 18 though.
 
I don't end up with a stove that will force me to sell some of it or cut it shorter. Most of what i have is 18", give or take an inch.

I would not look at stoves rated to take under 20". But if you do, just take a 19" split with you and see how it fits in the stove rated 18". As stated above, it will depend on the individual model.
 
As stated, I don't have a new stove yet. (I'm not hopeful that I'll be getting warranty help from VC and putting that stove back into use...) One of the issues I'm seeing is that the hearth I built will limit me on stove selection. I think the Oslo 500 is already out because it's a corner install and I can't use the side door due to clearance issues.

I suppose I could make up a jig to slice some of the longer splits into shorter lengths if I'm stuck with a stove that will only allow 18" logs.
 
I just got the woodstock ideal steel hybrid. Takes 22 inch east/west and 18 north/south. It's pretty good for corner installs. You can be within 6 inches of a combustible wall off your back corners.
 
One option if you end up with a stove too small for your current size pieces of wood is to cut them in half and load N/S if they will fit that way. However, be aware that the burning characteristics can change drastically with a N/S loading pattern, so start with a small load and pay close attention to what is happening. It's very easy to over fire a stove when you make such a change and start out with a full load before you know how your stove will react.
 
When I built the hearth, I included a 1" air gap behind the stone facing and backer board so maybe I'm in better shape than I thought as most of the clearances I'm seeing are to combustible surfaces.
 
When I built the hearth, I included a 1" air gap behind the stone facing and backer board so maybe I'm in better shape than I thought as most of the clearances I'm seeing are to combustible surfaces.
The super 27 on a corner install can be 4 inches from drywall on the back corners. Have you looked at this stove yet? In the manual of my stove it says that it will take splits to 18 inches so I cut everything at 18 inches. Sometimes I will get the odd whoops and have one that is 19 1/4 but thats the limit.
 
Had not checked it out yet but just took a quick look. I'm feeling overwhelmed with choices.... ;)
Thats how we felt when we were looking at stoves. It was between the blaze king and pacific energy. You may already know this but dont get to hung up on the square footage ratings of the stove as there are to many factors that will affect this. Have fun!
 
Yeah... I've read that there is no exact science out there to get the perfect wood stove for one's home; it's more of an art to get the optimum set up. LOTS of factors to be taken into consideration.

I just want to make sure that I don't end up with another lemon that I need to either rebuild or replace after only 6 years.
 
Through the experience of having two stoves I have found that if the stove says 20" logs to cut to 18", makes loading way easier especially when other splits are already in there, firewood for me comes in a different shapes but usually the same size.
 
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What lemon did you have before?

My stove takes longer logs. That being said, always measure before you try. I have seen people slam a door shut and break their glass because their logs are too long N/S! lol

Andrew
 
Vermont Castings Encore 1450 NC.

The good news is, you will have a pretty easy time finding a better, non-lemon stove. The downdraft burn technology in that stove is the rare exception in stoves, and is at the root of its problems. Have you narrowed it down to cat or non-cat for the new stove?
 
Nope. Really haven't narrowed anything down as of yet. I want what we all want; lots of heat, longer burn time, efficiency, minimal maintenance and a stove that won't have to be replaced for a very long time. Like I said above, I'm overwhelmed with choices. But I'm thankful I'm in the company of fellow consumers who have tons of wisdom and many years of experience to impart. Listening to the dealer talk down to me as if I was the problem (I must have dropped logs on the fountain assembly......... never mind that you can't possibly see or touch that delicate part of an Encore without disassembling the stove....), rather than the stove, was fairly insulting.
 
CAT stoves require a bit of maintenance for the simple fact that eventually you need to replace the CAT. Sometimes secondary combustion tubes need replacing. All in all, the two types of stoves, IMO, require about the same amount of maintenance. Personally I like a steel stove over a cast iron for it's longevity (no cracks and cementing required) although I much prefer the look of a nice Jotul stove (personal taste I guess!).

6 eggs, 1/2 dozen ;)

Andrew
 
Where do you live? How insulated is your house? Where do you plan on installing the stove in your house? How many stories is your house? Got a floorplan? Looking to heat entirely with wood, supplement the furnace, weekend burner? Maybe we can help
 
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