2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

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Describe your chimney install and post pics please.
I have pictures of my install on pg. 25 of this thread. Double wall pipe all the way, chimney is about 14' from stove to cap with a single 30 offset that is so slight that I can look up the pipe and see the light coming in from the cap. Practically straight up.

Everything burns down fine when it stays under 50F outside. Drafts fine and never spills smoke when starting the fire. Even the smoke alarm right over the stove has never gone off so far.
 
Sounds real familiar. Must not be quite enough heat from those last couple of chunks to keep the cat active.
Not really worried about it as I'm getting 15 hr burns on less than a full load. I just want to make sure it's ok to open it up at the end of the burn without opening the bypass.
 
Yes, it is fine to do that.
 
Not really worried about it as I'm getting 15 hr burns on less than a full load. I just want to make sure it's ok to open it up at the end of the burn without opening the bypass.

Yes
 
Not really worried about it as I'm getting 15 hr burns on less than a full load. I just want to make sure it's ok to open it up at the end of the burn without opening the bypass.

There's so little fuel at this point that the cat seldom becomes active again nomatter what I do.
 
Lately with warmer temperatures I've been running one overnight burn a day. Light 20-25 lbs wood 6pm and it burns until 9am or so next day. I've found that if the morning temperature rises quickly the cat will stall with a few small pieces of wood left. I've been bumping the stat wide open which makes this wood relight and burn off.

My question is should I open the bypass when I do this? If I find it stalled I leave the cat engaged and open the stat. It might go active again briefly as it burns off then go inactive.

I just don't want to clog it or damage it.

Are you having weather you expect to hang around until March, or are you passing through temperature regimes on your way from typical fall weather to typical winter weather? If you are passing through some shorties on your way to actual typical winter weather, I would probably not fool with my install. You can probably change the weather pattern that this bumpy troublesome timing thing occurs in by adjusting your pipe height - - but it might make it tricky in typical winter weather which would suck, a lot.

I think you have two variables going on here.

One is how much draft the flue is providing at the cat outlet. You can change it some by adding or subtracting total pipe height, but the absolute suction provided by the pipe is still going to vary with both outdoor temperature at the flue outlet, and the temperature and volume of the exhaust gasses coming out of the cat.

That's one. The other one is how much of the smolder coming off your remaining chunks is volatile, and is the volatile mass per unit time adequate to keep the cat active.

Honestly, given your actual question, I think either is fine.

You can leave the stove alone, let the sun warm up the house and have a pretty fair chance of finding enough still burning coals in the ash bed to relight the stove tomorrow night with no match.

Alternative extreme, you could go to bypass, open the air to wide open, wait a few minutes, open the loading door, wrangle the coals forward - some days get the cat hot enough to re-activate and sometimes not. All assuming you have the time to run this in the AM.

Thankfully your dilemma is a short blip in my burning season. I pretty much don't open the loading door unless I am going to reload with all the wood I can possible cram in there.

I did have a few days back in late August when I would just leave the stove alone in the AM and have coals available to restart after work. It was 8-20 to 8-23- 2015.

Then it got a little colder -sounds like you are kind of here right now- where I too wanted those last few BTUs in the AM to warm the house up a bit before my wife gets out of bed, and then let the stove go out while the sun is shining and the last of the Canada geese get out of town. Twice I did load the stove closer to bed time instead of right after work so I could catch the tail end of the burn in the AM and open the air control before the cat got to inactive.

I do remember one morning in this weather pattern I was able to go in to work a couple hours late. I had ash bed all the way to the back of the stove, two splits at the very back glowing kinda bright, about two baseball bats worth of wood back there. I went to bypass and opened the air control; a few minutes later I stepped out to check my flue and products other than steam were coming out of my stack. (Newly regulated burner this year, I'm sure I am obsessing). When I got back inside I found flames coming off my two splits back there, and the cat hot enough to re-engage. I re-engaged, checked my flue again a few minutes later and was back to a steam plume.

Probably more than you really wanted to know, but really I think there are too many variables to expect the system to run the same in three different seasons.
 
On hot reloads how long are y'all keeping your loading doors cracked open? Hot as in the cat is still active, but you got a nice bed of coals so all you got to do is open the door, stuff, get it engulfed with the door cracked open, close the door and re-engage the cat.

Last year I was filling up with 12%MC spruce that burst into flames before it touched the coal bed, close the door as soon as I was done loading and pretty much re-engage the cat right away.

This year I am claiming 18%MC (don't like it a bit), and having to run the stove with the door cracked for several minutes, like 15 minutes or so, to to get all the surfaces of every split at least flame kissed before I latch the door shut. Thirty minutes a day for nine months is enough motivation for me to get my wood drier for next winter, I really don't have time for this.

So remind me why we do this, and how long does it take for you to be happy?

IIRC there was some discussion last year about a fresh split having potentially infinite surface area on each face, so a huge pulse of smoke coming off each split what with the uneven wood surface, plus the accumulated dust and pollen and fine particulate out from under the lawn mower and who knows what all else, but then once the surface is burning it will burn down to pretty smooth pretty quick and we can re-engage the cat....
 
Removed the ash from my Ashford 30.1 yesterday... think I saw it mentioned earlier, but that plug is useless on the newer models. It lines up with the far edge of the ash pan, and when scooping the ashes down into it, a bunch went up over the edge, then down on the hearth when I pulled the drawer out.

Shame they didn't think of this when re-designing the stove, guess I'll be shoveling from here on out :(
 
Removed the ash from my Ashford 30.1 yesterday... think I saw it mentioned earlier, but that plug is useless on the newer models. It lines up with the far edge of the ash pan, and when scooping the ashes down into it, a bunch went up over the edge, then down on the hearth when I pulled the drawer out.

Shame they didn't think of this when re-designing the stove, guess I'll be shoveling from here on out :(

Shallow firebox is the Achilles heal of that stove.

Shovel shovel shovel. I meant to grind the eye off of my ash plug this summer. Good job for next year.
 
Then it got a little colder -sounds like you are kind of here right now- where I too wanted those last few BTUs in the AM to warm the house up a bit before my wife gets out of bed, and then let the stove go out while the sun is shining and the last of the Canada geese get out of town.

Those geese have been arriving in our area lately. They roll in at night in huge flocks way up high making a racket. Total darkness. I wonder if they just fly through the night since landing would be tough.

Removed the ash from my Ashford 30.1 yesterday... think I saw it mentioned earlier, but that plug is useless on the newer models. It lines up with the far edge of the ash pan, and when scooping the ashes down into it, a bunch went up over the edge, then down on the hearth when I pulled the drawer out.

Shame they didn't think of this when re-designing the stove, guess I'll be shoveling from here on out :(

Maybe a little shield or chute can be added to guide the ash into the ashpan. I know they made the plug bigger with the 30.1 but surely they didn't enlarge it in a direction that made the dropping ash not drop into the pan. That would be a major oops.
 
Maybe a little shield or chute can be added to guide the ash into the ashpan. I know they made the plug bigger with the 30.1 but surely they didn't enlarge it in a direction that made the dropping ash not drop into the pan. That would be a major oops.
Yeah, I think someone screwed up in the design. I can confirm that the ash plug is NOT over the center of the pan, and trying to use it will put ash on the floor under the stove, ten times out of ten. They somehow put the ash plug/hole over the back edge of the pan, such that ash just spills over the back of the pan when filling, or when drawing the drawer out. The best chance you have is to scrap a very small amount of ash at a time into the hole, and jiggle the pan drawer each time, but you still end up with about half the ash on the floor.

The stove runs like a dream, but this ash plug issue is such a weekly frustration as to really hurt one's opinion of the stoves performance.
 
It makes me wonder why they would move the hole back from where it is in the 30 stoves? Mine is dead centre over the pan.
 
It makes me wonder why they would move the hole back from where it is in the 30 stoves? Mine is dead centre over the pan.

They made the hole larger, probably in response to complaints about the PITA of scraping the ash into a tiny hole. They seem to have enlarged it in one direction vs. just scaling up the hole in all directions. Due to the smallness of these ash pans you have to assume the operator will be filling the pan to the top so anything other than a centered chute will lead to spillage.

This chute change came out at the same time as the numbers were removed from the thermostat dial. Hmmmmm. Was it the same guy making both of those calls?
 
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I always figured we got an interim design. Like, they plan to move the ash pan within the drawer, but had to use up the old 30.0 drawers in stock, first. I think the plug is in a good location, centered in the firebox. Now they just need to move the pan farther back in the drawer, to get it back under the plug. Hopefully they'll send us new pans, when they fix this issue, as we can't really use it the way it is.

For now, I'll just stick to using a bucket and a shovel, and griping about the potential increased firebox space that pan eats up. ;lol Stove runs so awesome, I can't say this would stop me from buying one.
 
For now, I'll just stick to using a bucket and a shovel, and griping about the potential increased firebox space that pan eats up. ;lol Stove runs so awesome, I can't say this would stop me from buying one.
I'm hoping to get a BK one day and perhaps by the time that happens they scrap this ash plug idea and just give the extra firebox space.

Also a bit maddening that a company can get so much right (t-stat, long burn tech), but make such an obvious goof on the ash pan.
 
On hot reloads how long are y'all keeping your loading doors cracked open? Hot as in the cat is still active, but you got a nice bed of coals so all you got to do is open the door, stuff, get it engulfed with the door cracked open, close the door and re-engage the cat.

Last year I was filling up with 12%MC spruce that burst into flames before it touched the coal bed, close the door as soon as I was done loading and pretty much re-engage the cat right away.

This year I am claiming 18%MC (don't like it a bit), and having to run the stove with the door cracked for several minutes, like 15 minutes or so, to to get all the surfaces of every split at least flame kissed before I latch the door shut. Thirty minutes a day for nine months is enough motivation for me to get my wood drier for next winter, I really don't have time for this.

So remind me why we do this, and how long does it take for you to be happy?

IIRC there was some discussion last year about a fresh split having potentially infinite surface area on each face, so a huge pulse of smoke coming off each split what with the uneven wood surface, plus the accumulated dust and pollen and fine particulate out from under the lawn mower and who knows what all else, but then once the surface is burning it will burn down to pretty smooth pretty quick and we can re-engage the cat....

Wood goes in the stove and the door gets latched. I never leave it open more than a few seconds even on a cold start. The wood seems to start better with the door closed.
 
I'm hoping to get a BK one day and perhaps by the time that happens they scrap this ash plug idea and just give the extra firebox space.

Also a bit maddening that a company can get so much right (t-stat, long burn tech), but make such an obvious goof on the ash pan.
The Ashpan and their ash plug works very well. I much prefer it over any stove with a grate in the floor. I'm not sure what's going on with the 30.1 ashplug not being centered over the pan. I do know they will figure it out, and unlike any other company they will make it right with customers that are having issues.
 
No it does not need to be glowing to be working. Visually, it would be hard to determine a stalled cat. However, if you cut off the air too soon or if your stack does not produce enough draft, you can find it difficult to operate in the lower but ranges, then the cat therm on the top of the stove will go inactive, even though you have smoldering fuel in the stove.
Glad to heart that!! Been burning my new princess insert for last month and a half and have become a huge fan. 12 hour burns (even if still the shoulder months) are somethng that i would never have believed but are real. My routine has been after 10-12 hours the thermometer is in the engage/disengage interface area, reload and close bypass when thermometer reads 10:00+/-, run on high 10-20 minutes and turn down to lowest setting (6:00 on princess insert) and forget about it. Truly unbelievable.

Tonight, I repeated the routine but left bypass closed but on highest setting for 45 minutes (forgot about it) and then turned down to 6:00. When I turned it down, the flames danced in front of the glas for 10 minutes as the stove was very hot. BUT, the cat was no longer glowing and was black as night. I let that run for another 15 minutes and the stove was with no flames and then turned up the thermostat to high (12:00) and almost immediately the cat began to glow solid bright orange. How can this be?? The stove was so hot but on low (6:00) the cat was not orange??
 
How can this be?? The stove was so hot but on low (6:00) the cat was not orange??

It's the alien tech. Go by the probe temp, it's really the only gauge you need to run the stove.
 
Wood goes in the stove and the door gets latched. I never leave it open more than a few seconds even on a cold start. The wood seems to start better with the door closed.

That seemed to work OK. I filled on hot coals, latched the loading door, stayed in bypass. By the time I filled the humidifier from the distiller and the distiller from the tap and came back to the stove it looked well enough lit off to re-engage. Thanks.

On cold starts I can get to engaged cat (and clean exhaust plume) quicker with the loading door open as long as possible. Leaving the door open to the last minute cut about ten minutes off my time - in March of 2014.

I'll fool with it again over this winter every time I shut down to brush out the flue. So far my best time ever is 22 minutes and change. Once I get that under 20 minutes (local legal limit), and cold outside air should help the elapsed time a lot; then I'll experiment with cold starts and closed loading door again. I bet install matters some too, probably second only to outdoor ambient temp if flue height counts as part of install.
 
For startups, I found that the door cracked just a bit gives me the most air flow by far.. sends a breeze through the stove and heats it up way faster than fully open or closed. I open the door, put the latch in the closed position then close the door like that. It holds about a 1/2" gap or so, and the flue starts popping in no time.
 
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I know they made the plug bigger with the 30.1 but surely they didn't enlarge it in a direction that made the dropping ash not drop into the pan. That would be a major oops.

That's exactly what they did... I was surprised too.

Hopefully they'll send us new pans, when they fix this issue, as we can't really use it the way it is.

Certainly would be nice, but I'm not going to hold my breath...
 
That's exactly what they did... I was surprised too.



Certainly would be nice, but I'm not going to hold my breath...
When we made the larger ash plug hole, we also modified the ash drawer and ash bucket. So, this was not as DRZ1050 noted. So, would the two or three of you with an issue send me a picture of your ash drawer and buckets please. Email them to me at [email protected] and I will see what happened. Also, include your serial number(s).

Thank you.
Chris
 
Certainly would be nice, but I'm not going to hold my breath...

No manufacturer of any technical product is beyond making an occasional flub, but I can say BK has been great about chasing down and correcting every problem I have seen. This observation was a big part of my decision to buy two BK's. Give them a chance, I bet they'll make this right.
 
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Wood goes in the stove and the door gets latched. I never leave it open more than a few seconds even on a cold start. The wood seems to start better with the door closed.

I'm new to this but I have been keeping mine cracked during start up and for a reload I throw the wood in and shut the door immediately.

BUT I can tell you that I DO NOT like the idea of leaving the door cracked during start up any more. Last night I forgot it was cracked - I got sidetracked because I was doing something although I was right around the stove. Luckily it didn't get too hot. So I will be trying to just start it with the door closed from now on. I was kicking myself for doing that- but it is easy to do as it is not very noticeable.
 
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