Princess insert install...

dvto2 · Nov 11, 2015

After much discussion about trying to put a new, more efficient stove into my basement, I decided the ceramic chimney is too large to draft and I have already determined that it has to many bends to get even a 6" uninsulated liner down it. Furthermore, there is no other place in the basement to move the stove and run straight pipe.

In the quest for more efficiency, my new strategy is to put a Princess insert into the main floor fireplace. With the exception of the flue door, it is a straight 15' or so up 12" by 12" tile. The tricky part is to get through the flue door, either by bending pipe, having some kind of angled retangular pipe, or cutting up the metal fireplace. I'd like recommendations on what kind of pipe to run as well. Looking forward to your advice. Here are some pics.

bholler · Nov 11, 2015

cut out the fireplace

dvto2 · Nov 11, 2015

bholler said:
cut out the fireplace

Let me add that cutting out the fireplace is not my most preferred strategy.

bholler · Nov 11, 2015

dvto2 said:
Let me add that cutting out the fireplace is not my most preferred strategy.

It may not be preferred but it is the best solution by far. Also have you had a sweep out to look at the other flue? There is usually a way to get a liner in.

dvto2 · Nov 11, 2015

I have not talked to a sweep, but there is no way to get 8" (10" od) insulated pipe down this chimney, or even 6" (8"od), and even if someone could, there are to many bends to run a super efficient stove.

I'm not totally opposed to cutting up my fireplace but I do worry what that might do when I someday go to sell my house.

bholler · Nov 11, 2015

dvto2 said:
I have not talked to a sweep, but there is no way to get 8" (10" od) insulated pipe down this chimney

no but most stoves run on 6" not 8" there are only a few that require 8"

dvto2 said:
or even 6" (8"od), and even if someone could, there are to many bends to run a super efficient stove.

I would have a sweep confirm there is no way before dismissing it and as far as the bends go as long as they are not to sharp it will be fine. If you dont want to deal with the hassle and expence of having a pro do the install i can understand that but without a pro looking at it i don't think you can say there is no way

bholler · Nov 11, 2015

dvto2 said:
I'm not totally opposed to cutting up my fireplace but I do worry what that might do when I someday go to sell my house.

Make nice clean cuts and the parts can be welded back in

dvto2 · Nov 11, 2015

How would you cut it?

bholler · Nov 11, 2015

dvto2 said:
How would you cut it?

A combination of grinder and sawzall

mellow · Nov 12, 2015

If you have enough height an insulated 5.5" liner might do the job if a 6" insulated won't fit.

Blazing · Nov 12, 2015

I had the same deal your working with. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel to make room for my insulated flex. Couple tips if you choose this route make the hole big cause your going to need some room to guide the flex to your insert. Also clean the inside as best you can before you start grinding saves your eyes. I used flex king HD for my liner and my princess insert drafts very well even in the 50+ degree weather. I'm sure you know but having everything checked out and cleaned before your installation is just a way to make sure everything is safe.

dvto2 · Nov 12, 2015

We could not get an uninsulated 6" liner down the basement chimney, so no, an insulated 5.5" liner would not work either. Even if it could, I have been advised by the manufacturer of the stove I wanted (BKK) that the chimney has too many bends for the stove to work properly. I have an inefficient stove in the basement already, I can use that and keep the temps up, and an eye on the creosote.

I have moved on and am wanting to put a Princess insert in the fireplace upstairs, which is my main floor. It has 15 feet of straight chimney with lots of concrete around it and is in good condition. Bhollar says cut my metal fireplace. My next question is about pipe. I have the 6" flex liner I was going to use in the other chimney, could I use that and maybe wrap it in insulation... should I get something else?

claydogg84 · Nov 12, 2015

You can buy the wrap for the pipe you have now, or you can do a pour down style insulation.

dvto2 · Nov 12, 2015

Wrap sounds like the cheaper option.

bholler · Nov 12, 2015

dvto2 said:
Wrap sounds like the cheaper option.

not necessarily cheaper but for some one with out experience and for an insert it is the right solution for sure

dvto2 · Nov 12, 2015

Cheaper for me because I already have the liner and just need the insulation and the fitting to the stove. I was able to get a piece through my flue. It seems very tempting to try this without cutting up the fireplace.

claydogg84 · Nov 12, 2015

If it will fit through the existing damper opening then there is no need to cut it out. Just be careful installing it.

bholler · Nov 12, 2015

dvto2 said:
Cheaper for me because I already have the liner and just need the insulation and the fitting to the stove.

It would still be the same if you where pouring it. I am not recommending that for this application but wrap and pour in cost about the same.

dvto2 said:
I was able to get a piece through my flue. It seems very tempting to try this without cutting up the fireplace.

If you can fit it through and fit it onto the stove then no reason to cut it but i have yet to put an insert in a heatform box that did not need cut in order to get the liner to line up. Yours might work though i dont know

dvto2 · Nov 12, 2015

bholler said:
It would still be the same if you where pouring it. I am not recommending that for this application but wrap and pour in cost about the same.

If you can fit it through and fit it onto the stove then no reason to cut it but i have yet to put an insert in a heatform box that did not need cut in order to get the liner to line up. Yours might work though i dont know

There will be a bend and maybe too much to hook it up. Your probably right.

bholler · Nov 12, 2015

dvto2 said:
There will be a bend and maybe too much to hook it up. Your probably right.

I may be wrong also it is worth trying it without cutting the box out

dvto2 · Nov 12, 2015

Will I need a 30 degree elbow for the stove hook up or will the flex do on its own?

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