The husband and I are currently in the middle of our very first pellet stove installation. We wanted to go through the wall horizontally and then vertically on the outside but the way our electrical outlets are lined up on the wall and outdoors it is impossible to do so. So we have decided to do the vertical rise and clean out T on the inside of the house and then we'll go horizontally through the wall at the top. Will there be more smoke in the house because the cleanout T & DuraVent venting system are on the inside? Do we need to use the wall strap on the inside of the house, I would think not but just checking? And our biggest question of all is how do you attach the appliance adapter to the exhaust vent without screwing it in because I read you're not supposed to screw through the liner of the venting pipe?Thanks so much!
Help!
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Shane1
Member
No smoke should come in. If you seal the pipes like the manufacturer recommends you'll be fine. There's tape some people use for the clean out cap. I'd do a search and find out which tape to use because you want to be able to easily access the clean out. The adapter issue where the adapter fits over the stove outlet is where you put the screws. The sleeve that fits on the stove should extend past the rest of the pipe. Use a 1/4" self tapping screw.
Than you so much! Do you know if it is ok to use the silver dura vent pipe inside? We cannot find the black anywhere :/ Also, it says on the pipe that it only needs to be 3" from combustibles but since it will be mostly inside, should we make it a lil more than 3"? Thanks so much for all of your insight, you have been very helpful! 
womaus
Feeling the Heat
Than you so much! Do you know if it is ok to use the silver dura vent pipe inside? We cannot find the black anywhere :/ Also, it says on the pipe that it only needs to be 3" from combustibles but since it will be mostly inside, should we make it a lil more than 3"? Thanks so much for all of your insight, you have been very helpful!
The silver (unpainted) or black (painted ) makes no difference, it's the same pipe. If you are going to be running corn be sure that the vent is the type rated that fuel.
Follow the manufacturers guidelines, so that you'll be running with code. 3" should be sufficient.
For the tape mentioned in one of the previous posts you'll want to look for high temp self sealing silicone tape. Home Depot has it in the paint section, as should Lowes, Menards, Ace Hardware, etc. Amazon too. 500 degree temperature safe.
Look for something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-Black-1208952/100206050
Shane1
Member
If you wipe down the silver pipe with diluted vinegar hit it with some black stove paint your good to go. If you want black that is. LolThan you so much! Do you know if it is ok to use the silver dura vent pipe inside? We cannot find the black anywhere :/ Also, it says on the pipe that it only needs to be 3" from combustibles but since it will be mostly inside, should we make it a lil more than 3"? Thanks so much for all of your insight, you have been very helpful!
mik_kane
Feeling the Heat
You can move the electrical box that's in the way - I removed my electrical outlet that was in the way of my thimble hole by terminating the wires that went to it. Get an electrician or someone with home wiring experience to do it if you're not 100% comfortable working around electricity that can kill ! 
As far as vent painting, I did the same as mik and spray painted my silver venting with Stove Bright high temp paint - which is what I believe they use in the production factory. It has held up great, even on the vertical section that is outside exposed to the elements. The short inside section of painted pipe still looks brand new.
Stove Bright has acetone in it, so if you use that brand make sure to do it in a well ventilated place with no open flame, and wear a respirator mask, heavy duty dish washing gloves, eye protection, etc as acetone is a nasty contact chemical and a bad fume to breathe in. The key to paint longevity, as in any rattle can spray paint job, is good surface prep, and making sure the temperature is warm enough where you spray to get it to set. I'd recommend going over the pipe with fine (0000) steel wool or a fine green scrubbie dishwashing pad, then wiping it with either the Stove Bright prep cleaner or acetone to wipe it clean before you paint.
A very light base mist coat, where you can still see the fine paint droplets, is the key to not getting drips and runs, which is what will happen if you try to cover the silver color in the 1st coat. After 20 mins or so the mist coat can then be covered with a light 2nd coat, and a 3rd if necessary. I got some paint curing smell from the inside section of pipe for the first couple of stove fires I had after installing the venting - it's apparently not toxic but does give off an odor till the paint does a final heat cure.
X2 on the high temp self-sealing silicone tape - you can use it on your clean-out T also as it comes off easily when you want to clean out the vent. Good luck !
As far as vent painting, I did the same as mik and spray painted my silver venting with Stove Bright high temp paint - which is what I believe they use in the production factory. It has held up great, even on the vertical section that is outside exposed to the elements. The short inside section of painted pipe still looks brand new.
Stove Bright has acetone in it, so if you use that brand make sure to do it in a well ventilated place with no open flame, and wear a respirator mask, heavy duty dish washing gloves, eye protection, etc as acetone is a nasty contact chemical and a bad fume to breathe in. The key to paint longevity, as in any rattle can spray paint job, is good surface prep, and making sure the temperature is warm enough where you spray to get it to set. I'd recommend going over the pipe with fine (0000) steel wool or a fine green scrubbie dishwashing pad, then wiping it with either the Stove Bright prep cleaner or acetone to wipe it clean before you paint.
A very light base mist coat, where you can still see the fine paint droplets, is the key to not getting drips and runs, which is what will happen if you try to cover the silver color in the 1st coat. After 20 mins or so the mist coat can then be covered with a light 2nd coat, and a 3rd if necessary. I got some paint curing smell from the inside section of pipe for the first couple of stove fires I had after installing the venting - it's apparently not toxic but does give off an odor till the paint does a final heat cure.
X2 on the high temp self-sealing silicone tape - you can use it on your clean-out T also as it comes off easily when you want to clean out the vent. Good luck !
bogieb
Minister of Fire
Everyone has done a good job explaining about the pipe, painting the pipe and the stove attachment. They have also mentioned the use of silicone tape to seal with.
Any 45*, 90* or clean out T's will most likely leak so wrap them well with silicone tape around the joints. At the end of the clean out T, wrap that whole bottom piece else it will leak. I wrapped around the pipe, 1-2" up from the end and again around the rim/edge. Then I stretched short pieces of tape across the bottom, then wrapped around the diameter of the pipe to trap the ends of the short pieces.
I this picture, you can see both the cleanout end and part of the joint wrapped.
Fortunately the high temp silicone tape comes in many colors, including "clear" so it won't stick out too badly on silver pipe if you choose not to paint it. Also, there are plenty of place on the web that sell the black pipe such as Woodland Direct, Venting Pipe.com and you can even find it on Amazon or Home Depot's website. Of course it will take a few days to get to you, so that doesn't help if you are installing this weekend.
Any 45*, 90* or clean out T's will most likely leak so wrap them well with silicone tape around the joints. At the end of the clean out T, wrap that whole bottom piece else it will leak. I wrapped around the pipe, 1-2" up from the end and again around the rim/edge. Then I stretched short pieces of tape across the bottom, then wrapped around the diameter of the pipe to trap the ends of the short pieces.
I this picture, you can see both the cleanout end and part of the joint wrapped.
Fortunately the high temp silicone tape comes in many colors, including "clear" so it won't stick out too badly on silver pipe if you choose not to paint it. Also, there are plenty of place on the web that sell the black pipe such as Woodland Direct, Venting Pipe.com and you can even find it on Amazon or Home Depot's website. Of course it will take a few days to get to you, so that doesn't help if you are installing this weekend.
funflyer
Burning Hunk
My two cents,
Forget the cleanout "T", they're really not needed anyway. Get yourself a good leaf blower/vac and a cleanout brush. The ash and soot from pellets is nothing like that of a fireplace or wood stove using cord wood. A simple light brushing from outside, and 30 seconds of the good ol leaf vac has my vent clean as a whistle. Also, without a "T" you can properly seal the inside venting and never have to worry about taking it apart or getting the mess inside your house. If you run the vent vertical on the inside then you don't need to use the clamp as the vent is supported at the stove and the thimble. The clamp is only needed where one end of the vent isn't supported after the vertical run.
Forget the cleanout "T", they're really not needed anyway. Get yourself a good leaf blower/vac and a cleanout brush. The ash and soot from pellets is nothing like that of a fireplace or wood stove using cord wood. A simple light brushing from outside, and 30 seconds of the good ol leaf vac has my vent clean as a whistle. Also, without a "T" you can properly seal the inside venting and never have to worry about taking it apart or getting the mess inside your house. If you run the vent vertical on the inside then you don't need to use the clamp as the vent is supported at the stove and the thimble. The clamp is only needed where one end of the vent isn't supported after the vertical run.
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