Ready to Buy A New Stove! Seeking Opinions and Advice

Hi! I posted back in Oct. 2014 about my old Treemont stove which has some issues. The common consensus was that it probably should be retired.... it had a good run, it doesn't owe me anything. I did get another season out of it and it's burning right now but I'm ready to replace it.... several of the issues are making me a little nervous and you don't want to mess with fire!

I picked out a new stove based mostly on looks, the cute one...I know guys....don't cringe....I then started doing my homework. I even sought out a dealer so I could see one and ask questions. I have some issues to address but first would like opinions on my choice before I go any further.

The one I like is the Hearthstone Shelburne 8271. And I like the green enamel. So below are some of the things I'd like opinions on. I did read the 3 or 4 things suggested by the moderator about choosing a new stove, the chimney specifications etc. I believe I am now a bit more unsure or confused than when I started!

1. What do you think of the choice? The heating capacity is right for the house.

2. My old Treemont vents out the back, 8" pipe and too low for the vent on the new stove but a new hole can be made and the old one sealed up?

3. Enameled stove....how easily does it chip?

4. What is this part they are recommending to go with the stove?... 3" outside air adapter 92-53700

5. Does anyone interested in answering the questions need more info such as height or type of chimney? It's brick, 3 sides ...see photos.

6. Anyone interested in an old treemont stove? Some one on this forum back in Oct 2014 expressed an interest but has been inactive for a long time.

Thanks

Hi.... the dealer I spoke to was in NJ. I'm in Va. I was just browsing at the time so we didn't discuss installation except he did day the center of the back pipe on the new stove was 26 3/8 inch center from the floor.... so yes, it's going to require a new hole in the brick. And the old hole is going to have to be patched. I assume you can't curve the pipe from the new stove down...lol. That just doesn't make sense.

On the old treemont the pipe out the back was right in the middle of the back. The guy at the stove store said the new ones generally have lined backs and the pipe is up near the top so most of the new stoves weren't going to line up with my existing thimble.

I have a guy who does brick work and thought I could get him to make the new hole but that is part of the reason I am asking questions....how difficult is this and/or is that something a stove installer can do?

Before I purchase it I'm trying figure out how problematic it will be.

mellow said:

You will need a new hole, that one is way to low and can't be used. Punching a new hole isn't hard with the right equipment, I would have a chimney sweep come by and take a look at it, Check to see if Advanced or PTL chimney sweeping service the lower VA area. What bothers me is your chimney height, you should have 15 feet from the floor of the stove.

If you go top vent your options for a wood stove really open up, heck you could get one from Lowes.

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Apparently I am under the wrong impression about top venting stoves. I always thought they had the big (ugly) pipe going into the ceiling of the room and did not work with a chimney but I just did some checking.... and it looks like you just curve the the pipe from the top of the stove into the chimney? That would be OK... but what is the advantage over back venting since either way it would require a new hole in the chimney? And is the 15 foot chimney an efficiency thing or a safety issue?

Also, do you have any opinions on the enamel (does it chip?) or the Shelburne stove? I want it to heat the house but just as important, I want to like what it looks like since I'll have to look at it everyday possibly fr the rest of my life!

Thank you for your help....I need 'wood stoves for dummies'!

yag113 said:

Apparently I am under the wrong impression about top venting stoves. I always thought they had the big (ugly) pipe going into the ceiling of the room and did not work with a chimney but I just did some checking.... and it looks like you just curve the the pipe from the top of the stove into the chimney? That would be OK... but what is the advantage over back venting since either way it would require a new hole in the chimney? And is the 15 foot chimney an efficiency thing or a safety issue?

Also, do you have any opinions on the enamel (does it chip?) or the Shelburne stove? I want it to heat the house but just as important, I want to like what it looks like since I'll have to look at it everyday possibly fr the rest of my life!

Thank you for your help....I need 'wood stoves for dummies'!

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Also, as anticipated the places you mentioned, one in Va Bch., one in Salisbury MD, do not service The Eastern Shore of VA. There is a chimney guy here who cleans mine every year and I can call him....just not sure how effective he would be for this type of situation.

begreen said:

Seal up the old thimble and put in a new one about 3 ft higher. Enameled stoves can stay looking beautiful for decade with a little proper care. The enamel on our early 1980s F602 still looks great. Mostly you don't want to spill cold liquids on them while they are hot or bang heavy pots down on the enamel. With a short chimney you'll definitely want to stick with stoves that are easy breathers. The Shelburne requires 13 ft so it may be ok if you have at least that height. A Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 is an easy breathing stove that would also work there. It has the advantage of a 2.0 cu ft square firebox vs the E/W loading firebox in the Shelburne.

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Thank you for the info... I did some more investigating and apparently my chimney is around 14 feet from the hearth...if you measured from where the stove sits. You say the Shelburne requires 13 feet but is that for a top venting or back venting or does it matter? And the 13 feet is measured from the floor of the stove.....not including the feet or the ash area? I'm being specific because I don't want to be breaking through the bricks only to find out the room fills with smoke. I would prefer the look of the back venting stove.

Also you mentioned a 6" insulated liner. I called a Hearthstone dealer, the one closest to me, after getting your information. He said regulations required them to put in a liner. I assume that is a safety measure? I also put in a call to my chimney cleaning guy who is going to call back tonight. He should know what is currently in my chimney so I may know more by tomorrow.

I will check into the Pacific Energy Aldrea T5 easy breather but what is a E/W loading firebox? LOL?

This is way more involved than I anticipated...however...information equals power. And I really appreciate the help.

Oh, and one more thing, what is the 3" outside air adapter 92-53700 that is being recommended with the Shelburne stove. They also say the heat shield is required.

Thanks again

Gay Frazee
Shore Wildlife Rehab

begreen said:

A problem with back venting is that one is locked into a single solution. It is unlikely another stove will be able to be swapped in without more expense.

An E/W loader is a stove that is only loaded with the wood parallel to the door glass. This is in contrast to a N/S load which is parallel to the sides of the stove.

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Again thanks...one more question and I'll give you a break for the holiday!... what is this part they are recommending: 3" outside air adapter 92-53700

vixster said:

We love ours

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Do you have the blower? I planned on getting it. My current stove has it and it's fabulous!

mellow said:

An Outside Air Kit is somewhat an optional thing, if you have a really tight insulated house you will need one or a mobile home it is required. It wouldn't hurt to have one hooked up as it will allow the stove to use outside air instead of heated air from inside the house.

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Thanks again!