Need More Help With NC30

ambull01 · Nov 25, 2015

Installed the 30ft liner and ran the NC30 a couple of nights so far. Straddling my roof top >30ft in the air was downright frightening lol. The top plate is too small for the chimney so I just angled it onto the chimney top. I'm going to wait a while until I rent a bucket lift to install it properly. I may have to cut a hole in a sheet metal piece, secure the sheet metal to the chimney with a circle cut out of it for the liner and secure the top plate onto the sheet metal.

The NC30 is a heat throwing beast! Pretty easy to operate so far. There's usually a nice coal bed so I rake them to the front, drop the biggest pieces E/W in the rear, and load it up. I shut down the primary air all the way when the stove top hits about 450-500 degrees. Massive secondary burn ensues. With the secondaries going the stove top will easily hit 750 or so. I've seen 800+ temps a few times as well. The draft seems way too strong. There's no lazy flames even with the primary control pushed in all the way.

Do I need a flue pipe damper? Or, should I just permanently obstruct the rear air inlet (partially of course)? If I do the damper on the flue pipe, it will have to be right on the flue collar or it will be extremely hard to reach. I'll have to use a stove pipe with a mild angle to permanently complete the setup.

mellow · Nov 25, 2015

Damper on your install is going to be about impossible to use so I would just ditch that idea and start blocking some of the air inlets like others with too much draft have done and see if you can get longer burns that way. 30 ft of chimney makes a heck of a vacuum.

kennyp2339 · Nov 25, 2015

Perhaps a PM to member Brother Bart - he's the king of NC30 mod's; rather than install a damper he may recommend (with instructions) how to block off some of the secondary air entrance's on the stove to slow the burn and keep temps in check.

begreen · Nov 25, 2015

paging @BrotherBart. IIRC there are boost air inlets behind the front legs on the bottom of the stove. Try blocking them off with magnets first and see if that makes a notable difference.

ambull01 · Nov 25, 2015

mellow said:
Damper on your install is going to be about impossible to use so I would just ditch that idea and start blocking some of the air inlets like others with too much draft have done and see if you can get longer burns that way. 30 ft of chimney makes a heck of a vacuum.

Yep, I can actually hear the stove sucking air. Once I get the draft under control I think I'll be a very happy customer.

begreen said:
paging @BrotherBart. IIRC there are boost air inlets behind the front legs on the bottom of the stove. Try blocking them off with magnets first and see if that makes a notable difference.

Hope they're fairly easy to get to. I have the pedestal setup right now.

realstihl · Nov 25, 2015

You can also just put a bolt in the hole for a quick check to see if it helps. It will be easier than reaching in behind the pedistal. Just make sure the bolt head is big enough so it doesn't fall in the hole.

BrotherBart · Nov 25, 2015

The first step in getting the bad boy under control is to pick up a couple of two packs of rectangular magnets. First use one to block off the center of the secondary air intake, the rectangular hole in the bottom back under the firebox. Cut off around a third air to the hole. Then if it still wants to take off and run too much the next is to cover one of the holes in the bottom of the firebox behind the legs. If you are burning E/W it is better to leave those holes open but you can experiment with the magnets.

quotejso · Nov 25, 2015

I would get that top plate sealed up as fast as possible.

BrotherBart · Nov 25, 2015

Why in the world would anybody want that stove sitting on what looks like a TV stand when it comes with the legs to make it look like a wood stove? ;lol

quotejso · Nov 25, 2015

BrotherBart said:
Why in the world would anybody want that stove sitting on what looks like a TV stand when it comes with the legs to make it look like a wood stove?

You think it makes it easier for them to ship it? Seems like a waste to me.

BrotherBart · Nov 25, 2015

Back when I bought mine it only came with legs. Then they started shipping it with the ped and legs. One problem is that with the ped it is only as tall as with six inch legs. But they ship 9" legs with it.

Causes a problem when anybody depends on the measurements on their website. I had to have the six inch legs to get it in my fireplace and bought it based on their height measurement on the website. They sent me some six inch legs.

BrotherBart · Nov 25, 2015

When I was down at the plant in 2006 it was apparent that they never dreamed that some crazy SOB would shove one into a fireplace.

CenterTree · Nov 25, 2015

ambull01 said:
The NC30 is a heat throwing beast! Pretty easy to operate so far. There's usually a nice coal bed so I rake them to the front, drop the biggest pieces E/W in the rear, and load it up. I shut down the primary air all the way when the stove top hits about 450-500 degrees. Massive secondary burn ensues. With the secondaries going the stove top will easily hit 750 or so. I've seen 800+ temps a few times as well. The draft seems way too strong. There's no lazy flames even with the primary control pushed in all the way.
.

Just a suggestion. Maybe try shutting the air down a little sooner. Maybe around 350,,, But do it in steps (increments). Not all at once.
The fire still gets up to the needed hot temp quick enough to keep the flue clean too. (500)

I find by easing my fire into it's secondary burn stage I get more control without the 800+ temps you mentioned.
I can get my fire to "Cruise" at 550-600 for along time by doing a gradual shutdown of the air.

My 2 cents.

realstihl · Nov 25, 2015

BrotherBart said:
Why in the world would anybody want that stove sitting on what looks like a TV stand when it comes with the legs to make it look like a wood stove?

Hey, I like my TV stand. I watch it more than my TV. If that makes sense.

ambull01 · Nov 25, 2015

CenterTree said:
Just a suggestion. Maybe try shutting the air down a little sooner. Maybe around 350,,, But do it in steps (increments). Not all at once.
The fire still gets up to the needed hot temp quick enough to keep the flue clean too. (500)

I find by easing my fire into it's secondary burn stage I get more control without the 800+ temps you mentioned.
I can get my fire to "Cruise" at 550-600 for along time by doing a gradual shutdown of the air.

Just tried shutting down the air faster. There's constant secondaries going now with the air control all the way in. Temp is cruising in the 300 degree range. It's okay for a mild night like this but it's not going to work for colder nights.

BrotherBart said:
The first step in getting the bad boy under control is to pick up a couple of two packs of rectangular magnets. First use one to block off the center of the secondary air intake, the rectangular hole in the bottom back under the firebox. Cut off around a third air to the hole. Then if it still wants to take off and run too much the next is to cover one of the holes in the bottom of the firebox behind the legs. If you are burning E/W it is better to leave those holes open but you can experiment with the magnets.

So all the air holes are on the bottom? I'm going to experiment this weekend. Still not sure which works best, N/S or E/W. Really not looking forward to moving this freaking stove out of the fireplace again to find the holes. It's a bit heavy lol.

realstihl said:
You can also just put a bolt in the hole for a quick check to see if it helps. It will be easier than reaching in behind the pedistal. Just make sure the bolt head is big enough so it doesn't fall in the hole.

Which hole are we talking about? Is it the dog house outlet?

BrotherBart said:
Why in the world would anybody want that stove sitting on what looks like a TV stand when it comes with the legs to make it look like a wood stove?

I may have screwed up. I've probably had the stove for close to a month so it's probably too late to get the legs.

BrotherBart · Nov 25, 2015

It takes time to get settled in with a stove. You are probably gonna find that you close it all the way or most of the way down in the early outgassing stage of a fresh load on hot coals when all hell is breaking loose and then open the primary air some amount to get the steady temp you need when the show is over. Anything South of 450 is not burning hot enough.

quotejso · Nov 25, 2015

it comes with the legs

Highbeam · Nov 25, 2015

I left mine on the pedestal because that's how it came. Looked like a major pita to swap to legs. Looks fine.

There are four holes that let air into this stove. The two behind the front legs both feed the single hole from the doghouse outlet at the bottom of the loading door. Full throttle all the time. Then there is the square hole in the bottom rear that feeds the tubes on top of the firebox, full throttle all the time. Then the great big 3" pipe in back bottom. That's the airwash air feed at the top of the loading door. You control that one.

My nc30 sucks and roars too. It also likes 700. Mine, however, is extremely controllable with only 10' of single wall to 9' of class a chimney. All vertical.

I would not feel comfortable with a stove that couldn't be reigned in by fully closing the intake control.

ambull01 · Nov 27, 2015

BrotherBart said:
It takes time to get settled in with a stove. You are probably gonna find that you close it all the way or most of the way down in the early outgassing stage of a fresh load on hot coals when all hell is breaking loose and then open the primary air some amount to get the steady temp you need when the show is over. Anything South of 450 is not burning hot enough.

450+ for creosote reasons or something else?

Highbeam said:
I left mine on the pedestal because that's how it came. Looked like a major pita to swap to legs. Looks fine.

There are four holes that let air into this stove. The two behind the front legs both feed the single hole from the doghouse outlet at the bottom of the loading door. Full throttle all the time. Then there is the square hole in the bottom rear that feeds the tubes on top of the firebox, full throttle all the time. Then the great big 3" pipe in back bottom. That's the airwash air feed at the top of the loading door. You control that one.

My nc30 sucks and roars too. It also likes 700. Mine, however, is extremely controllable with only 10' of single wall to 9' of class a chimney. All vertical.

I would not feel comfortable with a stove that couldn't be reigned in by fully closing the intake control.

I left mine on the pedestal because that's how it came. Looked like a major pita to swap to legs. Looks fine.

There are four holes that let air into this stove. The two behind the front legs both feed the single hole from the doghouse outlet at the bottom of the loading door. Full throttle all the time. Then there is the square hole in the bottom rear that feeds the tubes on top of the firebox, full throttle all the time. Then the great big 3" pipe in back bottom. That's the airwash air feed at the top of the loading door. You control that one.

My nc30 sucks and roars too. It also likes 700. Mine, however, is extremely controllable with only 10' of single wall to 9' of class a chimney. All vertical.

I would not feel comfortable with a stove that couldn't be reigned in by fully closing the intake control

Yep, my stove came with the pedestal and included a paper saying I can request the 9" legs.

Looks like I'll have to tilt the stove over to access the holes. That will be a freaking chore. I placed a bolt in the doghouse opening and that made a huge difference but it cuts the air down too much. I think if I could cut down on the doghouse air about 1/3-1/2 it would be ideal. Do you normally run it around 700? What is danger stove top temps on this stove?

Highbeam · Nov 27, 2015

ambull01 said:
450+ for creosote reasons or something else?

I left mine on the pedestal because that's how it came. Looked like a major pita to swap to legs. Looks fine.

There are four holes that let air into this stove. The two behind the front legs both feed the single hole from the doghouse outlet at the bottom of the loading door. Full throttle all the time. Then there is the square hole in the bottom rear that feeds the tubes on top of the firebox, full throttle all the time. Then the great big 3" pipe in back bottom. That's the airwash air feed at the top of the loading door. You control that one.

My nc30 sucks and roars too. It also likes 700. Mine, however, is extremely controllable with only 10' of single wall to 9' of class a chimney. All vertical.

I would not feel comfortable with a stove that couldn't be reigned in by fully closing the intake control

Yep, my stove came with the pedestal and included a paper saying I can request the 9" legs.

Looks like I'll have to tilt the stove over to access the holes. That will be a freaking chore. I placed a bolt in the doghouse opening and that made a huge difference but it cuts the air down too much. I think if I could cut down on the doghouse air about 1/3-1/2 it would be ideal. Do you normally run it around 700? What is danger stove top temps on this stove?

Like about all plate steel stoves, the manual just says no part of the stove may glow red. I use 800 as the max and have never gotten there. 700-750 on every load. My paint is still dark black like new. Oh but don't just leave it at full throttle on the climb to 700, go down to 50% or so as soon as you can so that you don't melt the flimsy air wash plate.

BrotherBart · Nov 27, 2015

ambull01 said:
450+ for creosote reasons or something else?

Burning efficiency. Below that the secondary burn isn't as efficient.

ambull01 · Dec 1, 2015

Highbeam said:
There are four holes that let air into this stove. The two behind the front legs both feed the single hole from the doghouse outlet at the bottom of the loading door. Full throttle all the time. Then there is the square hole in the bottom rear that feeds the tubes on top of the firebox, full throttle all the time. Then the great big 3" pipe in back bottom. That's the airwash air feed at the top of the loading door. You control that one

So lets say you were in my situation with possible excessive draft. Would you try to reduce the doghouse air or the secondary tube air? The bolt in the doghouse seems to work adequately but it's not ideal. I've also used the bolt as a sort of emergency shutdown option when the secondaries were going crazy but it's a bit nerve wracking trying to insert a bolt into a small hole with temps in the 800s.

Highbeam said:
Like about all plate steel stoves, the manual just says no part of the stove may glow red. I use 800 as the max and have never gotten there. 700-750 on every load. My paint is still dark black like new. Oh but don't just leave it at full throttle on the climb to 700, go down to 50% or so as soon as you can so that you don't melt the flimsy air wash plate.

Only thing that glows red that I see is the rear secondary tube. If I shut the air down as fast as possibly without smothering the stove will hover around 500 or so. The heat from the secondaries may continue to climb though with colder outside temps.

Highbeam · Dec 1, 2015

ambull01 said:
So lets say you were in my situation with possible excessive draft. Would you try to reduce the doghouse air or the secondary tube air? The bolt in the doghouse seems to work adequately but it's not ideal.

Without a doubt, the bolt in the doghouse. Then, if possible, the aluminum tape over a portion of the secondary air inlet. Stoves didn't always have that doghouse and air will still be able to enter the front of the fire after pouring down the air wash from above.

You could get sneaky and reduce the size of the doghouse hole if you wanted. I've drilled holes in bolts before for grease zercs. Get a guy with a drill press to chuck up the proper bolt and drill a small hole in it. Make a few with different size holes for adjustment.

mellow · Dec 1, 2015

Some have put smaller chimney caps on in an effort to control draft as well.

ambull01 · Dec 1, 2015

Highbeam said:
Without a doubt, the bolt in the doghouse. Then, if possible, the aluminum tape over a portion of the secondary air inlet. Stoves didn't always have that doghouse and air will still be able to enter the front of the fire after pouring down the air wash from above.

You could get sneaky and reduce the size of the doghouse hole if you wanted. I've drilled holes in bolts before for grease zercs. Get a guy with a drill press to chuck up the proper bolt and drill a small hole in it. Make a few with different size holes for adjustment.

I'll try to experiment with various bolts. Father in-law has a drill press so I'll have to think about the benefits of drilling a hole.

mellow said:
New Some have put smaller chimney caps on in an effort to control draft as well.

I don't want to get back on the chimney. Bought the Sooteater to do my cleaning from the bottom up. I'm going to rent a bucket lift in the summer to fix the cap and add some touch ups.

Need More Help With NC30

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