Kodiak 2100 General Op

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C

carbon

New Member
Nov 24, 2015
7
Bayfield, CO
Hi,

Kodiak 2100 (best guess)

I am in a rental so I have little knowledge about this stove. I am used to a regular fireplace with a flue, but I see no flue and I smell smoke through the whole house.

The only levers are one below the firebox (push/pull) and I have no idea which way is open as neither direction seems to help the fire, and another lever on a Magic fan which seems nice but again have no idea what the pull or push positions do.

There is a dial down below which I read is for the fan, but again no idea what clockwise or counterclockwise does. The fan seems to come on when it wants based off of a thermo sensor.

Most important: Is there a flue, am I gonna burn this place down!? Also, I am really needing info on the dampers to get better draft.

Thanks!

Covered in carbon.
 
The smoke smell is not right. It sounds like this is an insert and we won't be able to tell you much unless you pull it out of the fireplace. Honestly I would get in a certified sweep to clean it and check it before burning - your landlord might be able to help with the bill?
 
I do not think it is an insert, and I'm not sure what I said to make you think it would be. Are you truly convinced no one on this thread knows what the levers of a 2100 do? I am quite shocked.
 
1st fore most if you have the door open on the stove does smoke come out? If it does check you chimney for build up, secondly the magic fan is not recommend, heat your place with the stove, not the chimney, you will only cool the gases down inside the chimney causing more creosote build up.

I looked up the unit, is this a newer stove?
 
carbon said:
I do not think it is an insert, and I'm not sure what I said to make you think it would be. Are you truly convinced no one on this thread knows what the levers of a 2100 do? I am quite shocked.
Click to expand...

It's frustrating being cold but people that respond are just trying to help. Have you inspected the chimney/stove pipe yourself? Have you seen that it is clear and how clean or dirty or sound/safe looking everything is?

Also what made the first person who responded think it was an insert is because I believe you are mistaking a damper for a flue.
 
Thank you for your replies. I am familiar with forums and yours seems to have knowledgeable users. I was just floored when I read that a user thought you guys couldn't help at all.

Thank you for posting the manual, I did skim it before my OP. It has a simple (but inclusive) diagram and it locates the "Single rod controls for both openings." However, I am wondering if this is the only thing that needs to be opened.

In the manual it instructs users to "Open the primary air slide by pulling it all the way to the right." It is probably fair to allow the technical writer to assume the reader will translate this to "Pull the Rod Controls all the way to the right to open the Primary and Secondary Air Intakes." Or maybe I totally misunderstood the document.

My question: Is the primary air slide the only vent for this stove? I am sure it can be modified at user's discretion, but by default is this the only damper?

I am also wondering if the Magic fan thing needs to be open or closed (and how is this done: push or pull?). I understand leave the fan off, but does it need to be adjusted to a particular position for air flow?

Thanks!

Edit: Chimney has been recently swept.
 
Take a look at these instructions for the magic heater http://site.epscostore.com/PDF/Magic-Heat/magheat_inst.pdf I think with your land lords permission it might be best to remove the heat reclaimer and replace it with a section of stove pipe, if its single wall pipe then it will cost you about $10.00 to do. Seems like a lot of maintenance running one of those things,

As far as the stove goes - news paper, fire starter kindling, open the air control all the way (primary air) get the fire going (helps if the door is cracked open (just un latched) close the door after the fire is established, keep the air setting open, let every piece of wood catch real good, should take in the ball park of 15 -20 min, load a few more pieces in, start pushing the air control in slow increments. The is no controlling the secondary air, it happens automatically on this type of stove. As the primary air gets closed off it creates more heat in the fire box, the secondary's kick in once the box gets to a certain temp, then you start getting good heat that radiates off the stove, you should have a stove of chimney pipe thermometer, it will help you keep track as your learning the stove.
*you need dry wood, what's your supply looking like?
 
Hi Carbon- Yes if its an Enviro 2100, its a beast. Does it have the brick baffle in top and are they in correctly?? If the chimney was cleaned, was the the stove pipe removed from the stove and the inside top of the stove cleaned too?? It can be blocked if swept down... Air control to the right (all the way out out is fully opened, left is minimal air). Have installed a few of them, they are a serious heater, but would suggest losing the magic heat, it'll just cause chimney problems.. Good luck with her.
 
Thanks! So what I gather from your comments is: Yes, the Rod Controls is the only adjustable damper (is it really a damper since it is on the intake?). Please confirm.

Now what about the dial at the bottom? It seems to be tied to the Magic Heat, but I'm not really sure.

There are no bricks on top of interior, just a radiator looking thing that runs from front to back before the pipe.

I just had a thought, is the lever on the Magic Heat the brush for cleaning I keep reading about?

Most appreciative.

*Edit: @kennyp2339 I only have a few logs from a couple of bundles. I am waiting on a delivery. On another note I gotta say I am just ready to give up! Unless I have the door cracked the fire just dies. If the door is cracked the house is smokey as all get out. You guys are truly artists. I mean I can make a fire but this is beyond me. I like the smell of fire, I just don't want all my furniture covered in it for my guests to deal with. Just had to vent (unlike my stove!).

*Edit2: Okay I've settled down a little. I built a rager then closed it up, seems okay for now. Worried about large flames entering pipe, especially when I open door to add wood.

*Edit3: Turning into a time lapse post, hope it's not spamming your email. Things still good. I turned on the Magic Heat, works really well. I am interested in concerns with its use. Is it because of air flow causing fires to be troublesome to manage? Is it dangerous after prolonged use? I am stuck with it for now as it is not my stove. My fear is leaving it in and not using it properly (such as unplugging it).
 
Last edited:
The magic heat cools the exhaust gases, making it more likely you'll get creosote built up in your flue.
As for your concern about "largeflames entering pipe, especially when I open door to add wood," don't open the door and add wood if you have a strong fire going already.
 
blacktail said:
The magic heat cools the exhaust gases, making it more likely you'll get creosote built up in your flue.
As for your concern about "largeflames entering pipe, especially when I open door to add wood," don't open the door and add wood if you have a strong fire going already.
Click to expand...

LOL! Fair enough
 
Getting better. After the fire sits for a bit I open dampers and unlatch door to try to get a flow going to push the smoke out before opening door all the way for fire management.

Any tips and tricks on how to prep a fire for the night. Ash removal tips?

Thanks!
 
Carbon- if that is an Enviro 2100, it should have a brick baffle system in the top- that controls the burning through the stove and protects the top of the stove- Look at a manual and see if its properly set up. The magic heat in the pipe is probably not a good idea, its usually not needed with a clean burning stove but the stove should have all of its pieces inside. Good luck with it.
 
One more vote for removing the heat scavenger (magic heat) from the stove pipe. It is not needed on a modern stove and it will actually reduce the draft. You don't want that, particularly not at higher altitude where the air is thinner. Remove and replace with a length of stove pipe, crimped end pointing down toward the stove.

The Kodiak 2100 has only one air control. It regulates the primary air and the secondary air. The secondary air tubes are restricted by the small holes that need the vacuum of good draft to pull air through them. For this reason and the fact that it is cooling down the flue gases, the Magic heat should go. It was designed as a bandaid fix for old, inefficient stoves.

Screen Shot 2015-12-08 at 10.02.42 AM.png
 
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