Tiny house stove?

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You are right DTrain , I have a small sharpening business up here ..............

Bob
Very cool. I sharpen stuff for folks. Kitchen knives. I use hand tools for wood working and do my own saws, planes and chisels. I have a 4' crosscut saw that I've "sharpened". It's sharper but not tuned proper! Grobet files. Norton whetstones, some dmt stuff. Hand crank wheel with Norton stone.

Love sharpening stuff!
 
Very cool. I sharpen stuff for folks. Kitchen knives. I use hand tools for wood working and do my own saws, planes and chisels. I have a 4' crosscut saw that I've "sharpened". It's sharper but not tuned proper! Grobet files. Norton whetstones, some dmt stuff. Hand crank wheel with Norton stone.

Love sharpening stuff!
Not to hijack the thread but although I sharpen a fair amount of hand tools ( axes, chisels , knives , scissors , etc . ) the majority of my work is carbide blades , planer & joiner knives , saw chains & the like . I don't do a lot of filing , I use a belt sander with a 42"x 1" blue zirconium belt for a lot of garden tools ,then finish it with a stropping belt . I also do a lot of push reel mowers on a grinder from the 1940's .......
 
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I know a few here will go all wacko over this, but if I was in a place that small I would build a "barrel" stove out of a 10 gallon propane tank. Would roll a heat shield for both sides, notch the top of the stove and make a flat cooking surface. Use 4" exaust pipe for the chimney. Install a baffle plate inside the store below the chimney exit point. Build the door from plate. It would be a fun two day project to build the stove and "tiny houses" are actually trailers so they do not have to meet normal construction code. You would burn wood about the size of 2x4s in it and in the self sufiency thing scrounging for wood from construction sites would be the goal.
 
"tiny houses" are actually trailers so they do not have to meet normal construction code.
No you have to meet mobile home codes and that does not at all. and it would need 36" clearance around it.
 
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Im,not interested in any stove of any size that does not have reburn tech. I have several and i find they waste a lot of wood. THey are OK if you want a lot of heat fast and your not planning to stay in the apace long. But EPA stoves produce a lot of heat as well and control the burn so much better and for so much longer.
 
Some of the Morso products would be very sharp looking and have a relatively small foot print. This one is wall mounted rated for a max of 1000 sq/ft but others are on pedestals.

http://www.morsona.com/morsoe-6170

Lots of browsing ideas here; http://www.woodlandstoves.com/SmallWoodStoves.html

Some rated for as little as 400 sq/ft
Howdie - new to the forum which looks great! I'm interested in putting a Morso 6170 on the wall of an old garage now renovated into a lovely light-filled studio (650ft2). The walls behind the stove are gyprock and I have a vertical double wall chimney connector professionally installed and ready to connect. What type of wall prep behind the stove is required if any? The manual states 'Must be installed on a non-combustible wall' (pg.8) and later on the same page 'When the stove is positioned near combustible materials, observe all current local and national building regulations with regards to clearance". The table provided in the manual lists: Canadian Standard Residential Installation (Doublewall Connector), Backwall to Unit = 2"

The steel bracket upon which the stove hangs can be screwed into the extra header put behind the gyprock, so strength is there. Just confused about whether I can go ahead and just hang the Morso or do I need a layer of non-combustible.

I've been getting a few conflicting opinions, so would be very pleased to hear from someone who has installed this stove - without burning down their house :)
 
It would be nice if they gave some specific examples. The way I read it a layer of non-combustible like cement board doesn't make it a non-combustible wall if the studs behind the material are wood. A non-combustible wall needs to be made of brick, cement, etc.. or of metal studs with a cement board cover that provide the 2 or 3" rear clearance required. Note that the double-wall pipe still needs to have 6" clearance to the wall unless the wall is non-combustible.
 
I think the first thought is how off grid the house is planned to be. IS there electricity from the grid or if needed generated on site? Then comes the question how if on site. 3 season cooking can be done outside unless raining but with wood or what? I would think passive solar might be useful for heat for at least 2 1/2 seasons with something help when winter. Is there hot water and if so how is it heated? Personally I think all the required energy needs be calculated and how to get auxiliary heat is one of the cards in the deck. If propane is far enough off grid then current RV technology already has that solved. With a 500 gallon tank all is solved and get bulk pricing at the same time and comfortable with familiar conveniences available too. Solar or wind might make electricity and with a battery bank might provide enough if loads are small. Personally I think the whole picture needs to be outlined before heat is discussed and wood seems tough in such a small place for other than taking the chill off for a short time.
 
It would be nice if they gave some specific examples. The way I read it a layer of non-combustible like cement board doesn't make it a non-combustible wall if the studs behind the material are wood. A non-combustible wall needs to be made of brick, cement, etc.. or of metal studs with a cement board cover that provide the 2 or 3" rear clearance required. Note that the double-wall pipe still needs to have 6" clearance to the wall unless the wall is non-combustible.
Thanks for replying. Yes, a non-combustible wall is one thing (as you say 'brick, tile'). What is so confusing about the installation manual is that it then gives clearances for a combustible wall - and that is only 2" from the back of the stove to the wall. The building inspector looked at it and said - yes, no wall prep needed - hang the bracket on the drywall. The bracket is steel and is what the stove then hangs on.

So to summarize what I have:
wood studs, gyprock layer, a steel bracket well anchored into extra wood stud 'framing, ~2" clearance of the stove to the wall once it is hanging on the bracket.

http://www.morsona.com/Files//Files/PDF/Manuals USA/72611800-6170-NA.pdf (Pg.8 and 9)

I have emails and calls out to Morso and our Canadian supplier. I have statements from 2 staff at local stove retail stores, our local stove installer (who has never put one in before), the building inspector and my very worthy builders. Many differing views and ideas. Any words of wisdom from someone with personal experience would be greatly appreciated!

Perhaps I should start a new thread with the title being Morso 6170 - rather than under the tiny house title!
 
That's helpful info. I haven't see the stove and didn't know that the brackets create the 2" clearance. It's good that you are checking with Morso for guidance.
 
I'm getting ready to convert a very small storage shed next to my son's cabin into a living space. It measures 12' by 9'! It will have nice windows, be well insulated, include sleeping space for 1 or 2, a sink, cupboards, a chair or two and a very small wood stove. I'll also be adding a 9' by 6' deck. It is in heavy snow country and I look forward to having it as a fun getaway. It will also serve as overflow space for the small cabin and if my son and his wife decide to rent out the cabin in the peak summertime they can survive out there. Haven't come up with a bathroom solution yet but... just details, right! :) I wouldn't want to live there but having it as a place to take a break will be great.
 
Electric available? Gas? A wood stove in 100 sq ft is going to be a challenge.
 
Haven't decided about electricity yet but kinda hoping to be off-grid. LP gas is available but rules and regulations have gotten very tight in this area recently, requiring permanent hookups that are serviced by gas companies who charge a monthly fee whether you use it or not. The old days of buying a smaller (8kg) tank and hooking it up yourself are gone for ever in Japan.
 
Do those rules apply to a trailer? Does an RV, say a tow behind or a class B mobile has to have a permanent hookup?
 
No, RV's are still OK the last I heard but in a recent conversation with a guy who sells RVs he sounded very worried that it wouldn't be long before they clamped down on them too.
 
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