laddomat 21-60

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

chewy

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 7, 2009
188
Indiana
I have an effecta lambda 35 that came with a laddomat 21-60 and my boiler calls for 1 1/4" pipe. the laddo came with the union ball valves, but they reduce down to 1". does anyone know if this will cause a problem? thanks, erin
 
Short answer to your question is the valves likely will not cause a problem. But ...

What is the Cv rating of your valves? The Cv rating is the number of gpm that will flow through the valve at a pressure drop of 1 psi (2.3 feet if pump head).

Ideally you want to calculate how many Btus you need or want to be able to move through your system. Then you need to determine how many gpm of water must flow to move those Btus. The calculation uses the formula Btus = gpm x ::DTT x 500. Example: If you need to move 100,000 Btus at 20F ::DTT, then you need a flow rate of 100,000 / 20 / 500 = 10 gpm. To complicate this a little, keep in mind that pump head increases by a power of about 1.7 of the increase in flow rate.

Then, at that flow rate you need to calculate the pump head between the boiler supply and return. There are tables to help you do this based on the diameter of your pipe, number and kind of fittings, etc. Once you know about what the pump head is, then you can look at your Laddomat spec sheet and the pump curve for the Laddomat circulator to determine whether the Laddomat circulator will move that volume of water. You would like the volume of water you need to move be in the approximate middle range of the pump curve. Assuming after all of this you are about in the middle of pump curve, no problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: velvetfoot
Because this loop is just charging the tank, which is 1000 gal horizontal, you are saying that it may change the amount of time it takes to charge the tank?
 
I don't understand your question. You can calculate the Btus needed to charge the tank assuming no system losses and no draws on the tank during the charging process, by multiplying the weight of a gallon of water x number of gallons x number of degrees. If the average tank temperature is 140F and you want to end up with average tank temperature of 180F, then Btus required = 8.34 x 1000 x 40 = 333,600.

You also can estimate the amount of wood needed to do this, again assuming no system losses and no draws on the tank during the charging process, by dividing Btus needed by available Btus in the wood, there being about 6050 available Btus in a pound of wood: 333,600 / 6050 = 55 lbs. System losses from the boiler itself, plumbing and tank may be in the range of 10-15%, so add about an extra 6 lbs of wood. This also assumes 20% MC and average stack temperature of 400F.

Now, if you do this and time the burn, you can calculate average Btuh output of your boiler: 333,600 x 3.5 hours burn time = 95,300 Btuh. For a boiler rated at 120,000 Btuh (35 kW),, this probably is in the ballpark for required burn time.
 
Sorry for the dumb question. Ty for the replys. Do you you have a link to the charts you talk about? I think it will be fine, but I would like to get a better understanding of what you are saying.

Brian Crawford sadly passed away and was going to help me with install questions. So now I'm trying to peice this thing together. Thankfully this forum exists.
Erin

Ps, just read an email from Mark at ahona stating that it will be fine provided I dont have long runs to storage.
 
No need to apologize for your question. Your are on a learning curve. If you search my posts, you will find many comments on these topics. What I have stated was learned from reading about btus and water, about energy in wood, etc. There may be charts, and charts are good to use. The more you can understand whats and whys, the easier it becomes to understand your boiler, how it operates and why it does what it does.
 
I would likely increase from 1 to 1-1/4 once you get past the ball valves. Then the 'restriction' won't amount to much at all.
That's what I was planning on.
 
No problem at all. the 21-60 is plenty of circ to overcome any issues with the 1" valves. I run them on low.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.