Winterizing

Make sure all your gasoline(high test) has stabilizer in it for ethanol. Other than that I try to start my equipment at least once a month, trimmer, lawn mower, generators etc to get fresh gas in the carb.

Read the section of your chainsaw manual for winter/cold weather operation. Many modern saws have a part or two you change or flip around to enable warmed air to enter the carburetor.

If your regular B&C oil pours slowly when cold, make sure to use a winter/cold weather formula. I also keep my fluids in a heated garage in the winter.

Wear good gloves to keep your hands warm and minimize vibrations. Cold hands are more prone to vibration injuires--they are no joke.

Wear boots with proper grip on soles (good tread or caulks). A slip while operating or even carrying a non-running saw can mean a trip to the ER or worse.

I remove all the old gas in my small engines by using a turkey baster to draw all the old gas out, then run it until it quits because it has used up all the old gas in the system. Then I partially fill it with Stihl's Moto Mix or equivalent, and start and run it for a bit. I use the Moto Mix for the winters infrequent uses.

brhorgan said:

I graduated from college about a year ago and am doing the whole adult thing now. Therefore, I am new to the ownership and maintenance of chainsaws, lawn tractors, etc.

What do y'all do to winterize and prepare your equipment for winter use?

I am planning to use my saw throughout the winter to continue harvesting firewood. Thank for all the help.

Click to expand...

The big thing is to ensure you use NOTHING but ethanol free fuel. Fuel additives can help but never ever put gasoline with ethanol in your saw. We have a local gas station that sells 93 octane ethanol free gasoline. That is the good stuff. If you observe this rule and start your engines at least once a month, you do not need to 'winterize'.

X3 or whatever on fuel stabilizer - the blue stuff is usually for ethanol - some companies label it marine - just dont add it to the tank, add it and run it for a little while to get it though the fuel system

fan of adding some seafoam also myself

CentralVAWoodHeat said:

The big thing is to ensure you use NOTHING but ethanol free fuel.

Click to expand...

I see this a lot but personally have no proof it's really a problem anymore. I can't get ethanol free by me and haven't been able to for years. I would use e-free if I could get it but really have not had an issue with any of my 2 or 4 stroke motors recently.

I'm pretty diligent with running the carbs dry one way or another if I'm not going to be using something. If the unit is equipped with a fuel valve shut-off, I use it, otherwise run the tank dry. Been adding Stabil as a precaution right at the gas station for the last couple years or so and most 2 stroke oils now have stabilizers. But even before that, when I have forgotten and left something over the winter, the weed wacker, the leaf blower, the mowers all start fine. Might run a little weak until I put fresh gas in but otherwise no trouble.

So question; are they now adding something to the e-gas to prevent separation? Many years ago it seems I would have trouble in any carbs that had a float bowl. Sometimes they would crap up, even find rust if you didn't run them dry but have not seen that for a long time. Also I have heard some say they put a little 2 stroke oil in their 4 stroke outdoor equipment. Keeps the carb lubricated??

i think its more with the older stuff where some of the compounds used to make seals, o-rings, fuel lines etc.. didn't like the ethanol
being into sleds (snowmobiles) I have seen my fair share of dirty carbs, bad fuel, deteriorated fuel lines, fuel pumps, etc... over the years - some of it I would think was related - I leave them almost empty with plenty of marine stabilizer (let them run awhile to make sure treated fuel fills the carbs)- add fresh fuel and some sea-foam when the season comes around - carbs are always clean

There are more issues with ethanol than separation. For example, ethanol decreases the shelf life of gasoline. Another issue with ethanol is leads to premature rusting of metal parts and degradation of soft parts like hoses and carburetor diaphragms. Yes, even modern synthetic parts currently used are not immune to ethanol issues.

EVERYONE HAS ACCESS TO ETHANOL-FREE FUEL. The canned fuel (MotoMix, Tru-fuel, etc.) contains no ethanol and is recommended by OPE manufacturers for long term storage. That is, you don't have to use this expensive canned fuel all the time--just when you go to put your OPE up for the winter.

TreePointer said:

no ethanol and is recommended by OPE manufacturers for long term storage.

Click to expand...

Can't disagree w/ you there TreePointer, it's what the OPE's are suggesting. I'm not doing that though. I'll run them dry and use the Stabil.

Carry extra bar nuts and little bits with you when cutting. You won't find them again if you drop them in the snow. And consider carrying an extra loop of chain rather than just planning to file in the woods; I find that pausing to sharpen really chills the crap out of me when the temps are low, plus it forces me to take my gloves off for longer than is fun.

Otherwise, not much that I do in the winter with the saws that is different from the summer, except that the heated handle saws tend to get grabbed first when the temps drop.

TreePointer said:

There are more issues with ethanol than separation. For example, ethanol decreases the shelf life of gasoline. Another issue with ethanol is leads to premature rusting of metal parts and degradation of soft parts like hoses and carburetor diaphragms. Yes, even modern synthetic parts currently used are not immune to ethanol issues.

EVERYONE HAS ACCESS TO ETHANOL-FREE FUEL. The canned fuel (MotoMix, Tru-fuel, etc.) contains no ethanol and is recommended by OPE manufacturers for long term storage. That is, you don't have to use this expensive canned fuel all the time--just when you go to put your OPE up for the winter.

Click to expand...

Ethanol significantly reduces the shelf life of gasoline because of how it attracts water. It will literally pull water out of the environment and bind with it in your gasoline, effectively watering it down. We have some really good saw and small engine service centers in our area since we are a logging heavy community. Most of them literally won't touch your saw if you use gasoline with ethanol as so many issues arise solely because of keeping ethanol treated gasoline in small engines. Some of those canned pure fuels are expensive but well worth it if it is your only ethanol free option in your area.

Do a thorough search for stations in your area that sell non-ethanol gasoline. Any place that has rural areas in any magnitude has at least a station with a non-ethanol pump. Trust me, it's what the logging and agricultural communities use, in addition to their large appetite for diesel fuel.

Jags said:

Some places simply don't have the availability of ethanol free fuel. I have been using ethanol fuel since they have been putting in the tanks at the gas station. I have yet to have a failure that I would blame on ethanol.

Click to expand...

Gasp.... that's blasphemy... we all know ethanol is to blame for all engine failures since the beginning of it's widespread use...

For long-term storage of lawn buggy, tractor, mower etc. best practice is to drain the fuel tank and run the engine 'til it stops and the carb is dry. Sharpen blades, do oil changes, greasing and other maintenance. Put a little goose grease (WD40) on linkage, throttle & choke cables. Coat the underside of mower decks with oil to prevent them from rusting. Used oil will serve. Put a trickle charger on the battery.

Bad gas is the #1 cause of repairs in spring. By removing fuel before it goes bad you'll save yourself some serious money and aggravation.

CentralVAWoodHeat said:

We have some really good saw and small engine service centers in our area since we are a logging heavy community. Most of them literally won't touch your saw if you use gasoline with ethanol

Click to expand...

Not getting this. So a small engine service shop won't service a piece of equipment that needs it because it if in their opinion it might have been due to e-gas? Odd business model.

jatoxico said:

Not getting this. So a small engine service shop won't service a piece of equipment that needs it because it if in their opinion it might have been due to e-gas? Odd business model.

Click to expand...

Nope. Not odd at all. I totally agree with it. What most harry homeowners want is to run whatever gasoline is cheapest/easiest to get. They then have issues with their neglected equipment and want a cheap, easy fix from the dealer they got it from. Most folks are upset to hear that the saw they bought several years ago needs a bunch of service because of the fuel they have been running. The dealer can simply wash their hands of the problem before even delving into it and telling someone they need a ton of parts/service, almost always resulting in an argument. They help avoid this by providing a list of local non-ethanol fuels and where to get them along with every equipment purchase. They also make it very clear that if you disregard this recommendation, they will not even get into working on your junked up equipment.

CentralVAWoodHeat said:

upset to hear that the saw they bought several years ago needs a bunch of service because of the fuel they have been running.

Click to expand...

I don't want to put words in your mouth but if the idea is that even using e-gas will destroy your equipment then I disagree.

jatoxico said:

I don't want to put words in your mouth but if the idea is that even using e-gas will destroy your equipment then I disagree.

Click to expand...

I will add that non-ethenol gas doesn't exist outside of premixed cans like trufuel here in Northwest Ohio. Absolutely all you can buy from a pump is at least 10% ethenol here. There is no 100% gasoline available ouside of wildly overpriced premix cans.

I'm always surprised by all the horror stories of "bad gas". I'm 55 years old and can only think of 2 times I've had small engines that have ever had carburetor issues.... My 1959 Evinrude 10hp outboard that hasn't been started in 20+ years, and a retired Jonsered 49sp that needs a tune up.

I never burn anything but the least expensive, regular grade, E-10 in my car and truck and have never had a fuel problem..

I have 3 motorcycles that I keep fueled with non-E premium. Every fall, they get topped off and a dose of Sta-Bil, they get plugged into a Battery Tender Jr. and will always start every spring.. No problems since 1998.

The lawn mower and snow blower get run dry and an oil change at the end of each season. A week ago my 7 year old snow blower started on the first pull after siting all summer with an empty tank and carb. They get fueled from a 5 gal plastic can. I buy only 1 or 2 gallons of regular E-10 at a time, add Sta-Bil and try not to keep the gas more than 6 months.. If or when it gets old, it gets dumped In the truck or car.

The 50:1 two strokes, a chainsaw, 2 leaf blowers, and a string trimmer get fueled with either Stihl or Husqvarna synthetic mix oil and 1 gallon at a time of non-E premium. If it's been a long time since I've fired one of them up, I'll pour the part of a gallon in my truck or her car, and start over with another fresh gallon.

I have a diesel tractor and keep a fuel treatment in the fuel and never have cold weather gelling problems like some people I know...

I have to wonder if the people that have "bad gas" issues are storing their gas in plastic cans with the vents open? sitting on a cold concrete floor? or outside in the rain? do they use Sta-Bil or a similar product? Is it even remotely fresh, like less than a year old?

I know some people like to keep several gas cans full of gas on hand in case there's a problem, but I believe that fresh fuel is better than old. If there's some type of emergency, my truck is usually full, or close to it, and bikes are always full of non-E premium, so a cheap siphon pump will get me the gas I need if my can runs dry.....