OMG I am really starting to hate my Austroflamm Pellet Stove.

RancherPacker said:

yeh test see if it even works at all

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Try a spray electronic cleaner if you can get it into the windings.

http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf I left you a link to repair manual.Hey flam,temp switch at the combustion blower is the high switch,the one by the convection blower is the low switch.Try jumping that switch.Also,if does not work,check for voltage at that switch.But,as you have had other problems before,I suspect you need the main board.Lucky for you someone (Joe) is selling rebuilt ones on ebay,cheap.I reccomend you get the last availible programming,you will like it.Good luck.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rebuilt-Aus...355361?hash=item2a5c21f3a1:g:Kn0AAOSwI-BWQ10V for some reason it does not post as a link,but you can get there. $180.00 is what they are listed for.

I am pretty sure that it is Joe selling them,same town in CA.Also I think you already have the latest prom,but a new one will come in board.

RancherPacker said:

yikes I hate to spend $180 without knowing it is my main board for sure. Is there anyway I can tell?

Could it be the convection blower since it is not working? Or will the main board fix that too?

The stove seems to be working fine right now even without the convection blower turning. I don't know why it was going out for 2 days and not staying burning.

Some of the problems you may have seen about my stove before was pure operator error since I am new to pellet stoves and I had no manual. The only thing I know for sure is 2 days ago pellets would stop entering after anywhere from 15 mins to 44 mins, and the flames would go out then it seemed when the stove would cool down the pellets would start again and pile up because of no fire. A few times I turned it off at the user control box so the pellets didn't restart falling in. I didn't catch on at first that the pellets would start again if the stove rocker button was left on.

Does it matter if the stove runs without the convection blower? It seems to be doing fine now. My son-in-law says the convection blower on his 1991 Lopi pellet has not worked in a long time and he isn't going to fix it.

I really appreciate all the help. One of these days I won't be such a novice LOL All this troubleshooting etc will certainly help that.

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The board advertised is from Joe. here is a link to his website. He is a really good guy and very knowledgeable Give him a call.He will be able to talk you through it.
Here is a link to a thread about Joe
I don't know why you would want to run your stove without the convection fan properly working..

Did you test the convection blower like you mentioned you would?

Mark_ms said:

The board advertised is from Joe. here is a link to his website. He is a really good guy and very knowledgeable Give him a call.He will be able to talk you through it.
Here is a link to a thread about Joe
I don't know why you would want to run your stove without the convection fan properly working..

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He should do things right or not use the stove at all. There is flame in the stove. That needs to be respected. The possible consequences of improper operation are nothing to be ignored. This is nothing to be lazy or frugal about!

An integra has to have the blower otherwise will overheat and shut down,usually on any setting above 1/4.Lets try to make it easier 1-does fan spin free? 2-hook fan to house power,does it run? 3 if it does,jumper the low temp switch and see if fan runs and auger keeps working, 4-if not,check for voltage to the low temp switch and fan.Also make sure you did not knock wires off air sensor,and it is clean.Do all this before you call joe or you will prop make him mad.Also 180 bucks is dirt cheap for this board,thinking about getting one for a spare.

bob bare said:

http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf I left you a link to repair manual.Hey flam,temp switch at the combustion blower is the high switch,the one by the convection blower is the low switch.Try jumping that switch.Also,if does not work,check for voltage at that switch.But,as you have had other problems before,I suspect you need the main board.Lucky for you someone (Joe) is selling rebuilt ones on ebay,cheap.I reccomend you get the last availible programming,you will like it.Good luck.

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I am pretty sure the temperature switch by the combustion blower is the low temp switch(the temp needs to exceed the setpoint of the switch to continue operation) and the switch by the convection blower is the high temp switch(If the temperature exceeds the setpoint of the switch the stove shuts down). The convection blower needs to be tested first and the wiring needs to be checked before replacing the control board. If the high limit switch was tripped the stove would never fire up as it controls the auger motor.

You are right,sorry,was late and was tired.By the way Bailys has a complete auto ignitor setup on ebay right now,but 300 dollars!!

I'm a little late to this thread, but I had an Austroflamm for 14 years and had very little trouble with it. There are some good points above which bear restating:
1. the convection blower MUST be running for the stove to operate, they are the quietest stoves ever made, but they do take a bit of lubrication on the blower bearings every so often. In my old stove, it took 11 to 13 minutes before the convection blower started. If the blower doesn't start, the stove will shut down within a few minutes. That's for your safety; I wouldn't recommend trying to bypass that.
2. Cleaning - nowhere did I see mentioned that you removed the rectangular plate on the right side of the stove at the bottom front and cleaned the air plenum behind it. That plate accesses the combustion air plenum for the fire, and it can get clogged by ash, forcing the stove to shut down.
3. testing - when you test, have the stove unplugged, and the wires to the control board removed from any fans you're testing. These control boards are analog and can get fried easily by having the wrong voltage connected to the wrong place.
4. Surge protection - because these stoves have an analog control system, they are suseptible to voltage spikes. Get a good surge protector on it if you don't have one already. One good brand that I've used in 30 years of working on video equipment is Tripp-Lite.

The Austroflamm Integra was the very best stove I've ever owned. Would have another one if they were still making them to the same quality standards.
Hope that helps you out.

Bump
Just wondering where the OP was in getting his fan working

Sorry....late to the party. Didn't get the invite from the Austroflamm Club. I don't have anything to add regarding the troubleshooting. Only stopped by to outline my cleaning schedule and to recommend having some spare parts handy. You don't want to get stuck without some parts. These stoves are pretty simple but they require a few components to operate. I have a spare control board, a spare air flow sensor and some spare low and high limit switches. I need to get a spare auger motor. I also have spare fans, burn pot, ash pan and cast plates because I parted out my buddy's dead Integra. He had bent up his auger real bad and the auger motor was frozen to the shaft.

I do a complete teardown in the fall (I should do it in the spring but I'm a procrastinator) and I do weekly cleanings on Sunday's during the season. The major cleaning is pulling the stove out of the fireplace (mine's an insert), cleaning the flue, pulling both fans and giving them a good cleaning. Lubing what bearings/bushings that I can reach, cleaning the circuit cards with electronics cleaner, air flow sensor and board, too. My sensor gets nasty black because of my preheated outside air set-up but it still seams to work fine. I pull the little cover on the right side and clean out the back chamber behind the tubes. Brush the dirty air passages and tube exteriors, replace the insulator sheet for the lower panel, Neversieze the studs and bolts for the cast iron panels and them put it all together. Takes a couple hours because cleaning my flue is a little awkward. Includes setting up my fall protection ropes, harness, ect.

The weekly is just getting out the shop vac w/ HEPA filter, pull the cast plates, brush and vac the tubes and dirty air passages, scrap the burnpot, vac out under the burnpot, clean the glass, put it back together, throw a small pile of pellets in the pot, gel it, light it and let her rip for another week. I will also vac out the fines in the hopper if it's close to empty. Weekly cleaning takes maybe 20 minutes once you get the hang of it.

To light my stove I put about half a burn pot full of pellets, squirt some gel on it, light it, close the door. I let it burn for about five minutes without starting the stove, then flip the switch. If I don't wait a few minutes sometimes it will blow the fire out before it gets going. If I let it get started before hitting it with the combustion fan it seems to take off quicker. Mine has been dead reliable. I bought it non-working from the PO. I didn't change or adjust anything but the pots on the control board. All it needed was a good cleaning. That was two seasons and six or seven tons ago.

Maybe the fan only worked for a few minutes, then stopped again, then it shut down?

So, again - did you test the convection blower like you mentioned you would?

Here's a picture of the convection blower. There are no terminals on it the wire go directly to the terminal board on the right rear of the stove.

Here's the only thing I can find with male terminals over here that's the low temperature or proof of fire switch on the combustion blower.

If you connect your convection directly to 110 volt power make sure you unplug your stove from wall.

RancherPacker said:

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.

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Yes, the convection fan should run regardless of what heat setting you have it set on. That's the whole point of a pellet stove, pretty much. The fan doesn't start up immediately when turned on. Refer to the manual for the steps and duration of the start-up cycle. There's no mistaking it when it turns on. It's fairly loud to me, but I sit 6 feet from the stove. It sounds like there's a problem with your convection fan or motor. Pull it out and look it over. It should spin freely. You could try lubing the bushings to see if it helps. If it spins freely and still pops your breaker, you have a bad fan motor. Running a pellet stove without a convection blower is like trying to bake a cake with an oven with no door. If the fan is bad you want to get that changed out pronto. You could end up causing problems with your control board, unless it has some sort of protection circuit.

BTW, my stove has the terminals on the motor like yours.

Ok You need to pull out the convection blower and clean it up and oil the bushings. I had a problem a few years back where the convection blower would slow down at low settings. Cleaning and oiling the blower fixed it right up. The blower speed is controlled by the control board lower voltages to the blower= lower speed. At low speeds the voltage isnt high enough to get the fan started, that is why at higher setting the blower will start up then die after a while once it warms up. Clean off all the fins on the squirrel cage you will shocked at how much dust/dirt it can hold.