Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Maybe we should lobby for a "swoosh" label or would some numbers be better? Hmm, "o'clock " references seem to work fine.
I was waiting for you to say that.... good job.
2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)
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I was waiting for you to say that.... good job.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I own a stove that shipped with a requirement for 12' and the new owner's manual for the same stove requires 15'. I have 12' and can get some smoke rollout when I try to reload a stove with a partial load of fuel still burning. I think this is the biggest reason that BK increased the requirement. Too many complaints of smoke rollout. I also think more draft improves low end performance and reduces smoke rollout. I'm not going to 15' due to the need for those ugly and potential leak causing roof braces. I hate roof penetrations!
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Flue temp and flow rate go up so yes, more heat up the chimney at higher burn rates.
Ten years here and I have never seen anything like this numbers vs. swoosh thing. If the stove is that boring then you really need to get a non-cat to keep you busy.
That is perfect
So I took the side off the thermostat side of my princess insert tonight to lube her up. I unscrewed the thermostat and applied nickel anti-seize to all the surfaces that "rub". Then I undid the spring on the shaft and don't know if I put it back together correctly. I turned it all the way down and tightened the spring holder in place and reinstalled. When I reinstalled it the flapper does not close. Is that because the stove is not hot? Just wondering if I didn't put it back together correctly?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
how many of you guys are using you princess insert in a split level home. I currently have a 1980's fisher stove and I am getting tired of filling up my stove every 4-5 hours and kinda wanna be able to enjoy those long burn times as you guys. so my main question would it be better to install in the upstairs or would the bottom level be good enough to keep the whole house warm. my fisher is in the downstairs and it does a good job keeping the upstairs a nice 70f. thanks for any hellp
Usernamemustbeunique
New Member
Well you guys convinced me! After reading this entire forum I decided to buy a BK Ashford 30.1. I have been using wood stoves for primary heat since 1982 starting with an original Earth stove. Recently my current Earth Stove that is about 20 years old has been getting a bit long in the tooth. The baffle has warped multiple times and I told my wife I was tired of fixing it.
We go through about 4 cords a year here in western Oregon. Our house is an open plan two story with a vaulted ceiling in the great room where the stove is. Approximately 3000 square feet to heat but the house is well insulated, built in 1996.
Last night was my first fire in the new BK and I am stunned and amazed at how this thing burns. I have used many stoves over the years from pre-EPA stoves, to elk camp tent stoves, to homemade shop stoves, to a couple of conventional baffle stoves and none of them have been anything like this BK Asford. I lit my fire, got it going, and then just experienced the nicest, consistent, warm heat ever. Once the thing was going, there was nothing to do but watch it burn. I am so used to fiddling with my fire every hour or so. I didn't toss in any wood for over 12 hours on a slow, small break in fire. Simply amazing, I'm stunned at how well it works.
Thanks to all of you for your information about this stove and thanks to BK for a great product. I'm looking forward to many years of a nice toasty home.
We go through about 4 cords a year here in western Oregon. Our house is an open plan two story with a vaulted ceiling in the great room where the stove is. Approximately 3000 square feet to heat but the house is well insulated, built in 1996.
Last night was my first fire in the new BK and I am stunned and amazed at how this thing burns. I have used many stoves over the years from pre-EPA stoves, to elk camp tent stoves, to homemade shop stoves, to a couple of conventional baffle stoves and none of them have been anything like this BK Asford. I lit my fire, got it going, and then just experienced the nicest, consistent, warm heat ever. Once the thing was going, there was nothing to do but watch it burn. I am so used to fiddling with my fire every hour or so. I didn't toss in any wood for over 12 hours on a slow, small break in fire. Simply amazing, I'm stunned at how well it works.
Thanks to all of you for your information about this stove and thanks to BK for a great product. I'm looking forward to many years of a nice toasty home.
mwhitnee
Minister of Fire
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Uh oh. The insert uses a different thermostat control mechanism since the controls are up front but on the freestanders that little spring retainer set screw collar is very important. That retainer is what hits the max and min stops for the actual flapper. If that thing isn't put to the right place as determined by BK then the reference used for installing the knob is now wrong. You need to call BK now to find out how to clock that set screw collar retainer deal right near the thermostat. When I lubed up that spring I looked at that thing and said, "Highbeam, don't F-with that set screw".
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Me too. If you're happy with how the fisher heats the entire home then the BK will do it well too and with five times longer burns when you need less heat. Split levels have those stairs and hauling wood upstairs is a pain. Keep your pretty fireplace upstairs for ambiance fires. I lived in a split level until I was about 11 YO and we heated from the less formal downstairs with an Orley woodstove. The upstairs fireplace was in a more "formal" living room with a traditional fireplace.
You are correct. It's pretty tricky and everything should have been marked to ensure it goes back just like it was calibrated at the factory.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
So, I've been watching the threads of cat stalls and too-short chimneys with interest. I have two Ashford 30.1's on very different chimney heights. One is at least 30 feet tall, and the other maybe only 15 feet, or thereabouts. The taller chimney sticks up about 40 feet in the air, with no obstruction around for a good fraction of a mile, and the shorter chimney is in the shadow of the larger part of the house. These are the two brick chimneys on the back of the house in the following photo, the two stucco chimneys being a fireplace and an oil-fired boiler.
I've noticed that the stove on the taller chimney will always have the cat active after 24 hours, at almost any burn rate, provided that burn rate is not so fast as to consume the wood in less than 24 hours. If I turn it down too low, I might find the firebox still half full after 24 hours, but the cat is still active. Conversely, there's a pretty narrow sweet spot on the stove with the shorter chimney. Turn it down too far (eg. 3 o'clock at warmer temps, maybe 2 o'clock at colder temps), and I'll find a stalled cat with a half-full firebox of smoldering wood after 12 hours.
Trouble is with this short chimney, the wood is still smoking a good bit, and I can see it swirling in the firebox, even tho the cat has fallen out of active temperature. I'm concerned all of this unburned smoke thru the cat and up the chimney is causing me some creosote troubles, as I did hear some crackling from the stovepipe after closing the bypass on a new load in this stove, recently. I may pull the pipe to inspect.
Moral of the story, chimney height seems to be a big factor in the ability of these stoves to run low and slow. Unless you're going to put a stop on the knob, to prevent yourself or others from turning it down beyond the threshold your chimney permits, there is a high likelihood you'll be stalling the cat from time to time on a shorter chimney. Conversely, on the tall chimney, this stove runs like a dream!
Disclaimer: It has been bizarrely warm here, so all of this testing has been done at temperatures 28F to 60F (night to day). The "stalled cat" is usually observed at 6:30am, when temps have been 28F to 40F, after loading at 6:30pm.
I've noticed that the stove on the taller chimney will always have the cat active after 24 hours, at almost any burn rate, provided that burn rate is not so fast as to consume the wood in less than 24 hours. If I turn it down too low, I might find the firebox still half full after 24 hours, but the cat is still active. Conversely, there's a pretty narrow sweet spot on the stove with the shorter chimney. Turn it down too far (eg. 3 o'clock at warmer temps, maybe 2 o'clock at colder temps), and I'll find a stalled cat with a half-full firebox of smoldering wood after 12 hours.
Trouble is with this short chimney, the wood is still smoking a good bit, and I can see it swirling in the firebox, even tho the cat has fallen out of active temperature. I'm concerned all of this unburned smoke thru the cat and up the chimney is causing me some creosote troubles, as I did hear some crackling from the stovepipe after closing the bypass on a new load in this stove, recently. I may pull the pipe to inspect.
Moral of the story, chimney height seems to be a big factor in the ability of these stoves to run low and slow. Unless you're going to put a stop on the knob, to prevent yourself or others from turning it down beyond the threshold your chimney permits, there is a high likelihood you'll be stalling the cat from time to time on a shorter chimney. Conversely, on the tall chimney, this stove runs like a dream!
Disclaimer: It has been bizarrely warm here, so all of this testing has been done at temperatures 28F to 60F (night to day). The "stalled cat" is usually observed at 6:30am, when temps have been 28F to 40F, after loading at 6:30pm.
MtnBURN
Burning Hunk
I was about to write a similar post but the general beat me to it.
We installed the 2 Princesses today.....one in the house...one in the shop.
Fired the unit in the house up.... and like the General I am simply amazed. After running the Buck stove this is like a dream....
Did a small break in fire this afternoon. That wood has burned down, the paint smell has dissipated... and we are just about to do our first reload.
MANY thanks to all the Blazeheads here for their honest takes on these stoves!
Feelin the BURN!
Well, I got it back together after stripping the set screw. I happened to have another one in the stash. I don't think it is right so I will have to call BK but it would be nice if there were some instructions for this. The flapper now goes closed at 1/2 open. I obviously don't understand the spring mechanism. But I am sure I will figure it out but will call to make sure.
First back puff with the sircco 30. Never seen anything like it. Saw some smoke ignite then a plume of smoke out the front door. No sound in the firebox. It was weird.
Kwehme09
Member
As some of you may have read in the independent thread I started, I installed my Sirocco 20 last night. I listed a few of my first impressions in my post, and for the sake of not being redundant I will just include one of my comments here.
As an experienced burner, but never before BK user, I think numbers would be way easier than the swoosh. Numbers would be an advancement, and the swoosh a step backwards. I know a lot of you think the O'Clock referencing is a good substitute. I find that a little cumbersome since you basically start at 8 O'Clock (high) and end at 10 O'Clock (low), but get there by going counter-clockwise.When I say cumbersome, I don't mean that it is hard to operate, I mean that it is hard to describe to someone else (Wife, house-sitter, Hearth.com Junkies, Dog, etc.) I think I'm going to have to return my stove ;-).
As an experienced burner, but never before BK user, I think numbers would be way easier than the swoosh. Numbers would be an advancement, and the swoosh a step backwards. I know a lot of you think the O'Clock referencing is a good substitute. I find that a little cumbersome since you basically start at 8 O'Clock (high) and end at 10 O'Clock (low), but get there by going counter-clockwise.When I say cumbersome, I don't mean that it is hard to operate, I mean that it is hard to describe to someone else (Wife, house-sitter, Hearth.com Junkies, Dog, etc.) I think I'm going to have to return my stove ;-).
Niko
Minister of Fire
Neighbors came over last night and enjoyed the warmth, everyone kept asking you dont burn any oil? I told them no only for hot water, i fill my tank once a year. I mean it wasnt really cold outside (40) but my house inside was around 80+ lol had to open up some windows and lower the King!
They called me when they got home and said their house was freezing at 68!
They called me when they got home and said their house was freezing at 68!
Ashful
Minister of Fire
You got it Kwehme. I don't think anyone likes the swoosh. A few try to defend it, but I haven't heard any of them asking for a swoosh sticker to cover their numbers, either.
It is more difficult to describe to the wife and others, where to set it, on my Ashford without numbers. I've even had to say, "go look at the one with the numbers," in the process. We have one of each.
It is more difficult to describe to the wife and others, where to set it, on my Ashford without numbers. I've even had to say, "go look at the one with the numbers," in the process. We have one of each.
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Usernamemustbeunique
New Member
I don't care if it has a swoosh or numbers. My SC20 had numbers and my 30 doesn't. I go by the sound of the flap closing to get to my low burn spot and if need more heat I just open it up alittle at a time.
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