A little guidance please

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4

4ward

New Member
Nov 30, 2015
7
Dayton, OH
I'm looking at installing a Summers Heat 50‐SHSSW02 in my newly acquired 1800 sq ft home. I've been researching stoves for quite a while and I think this is my best fit for the money that I can spend currently. I'm putting the stove in this corner of the bottom floor. The door will be gone next summer.
upstair view small.jpg

I'm wondering about the chimney system. I'd prefer to go through the wall as the roof was redone appx. 3-4 years ago, and I don't want to poke a hole in it. I'm not completely against it, but I hate introducing a possible leak point in a good roof. No matter what I do, there's going to have to be a 30* bend appx 6' up from the top of the stove. I figure I could follow the roof line for 4-6' and then send it outside via a 90*. After that it'll go vertical appx. 8'-10' to the cap.The manual says to use 6" pipe, but it scares me to go that small with a 30* and two 90*'s, with one of them being an abrupt T. Tips, tricks, recommendations? Thanks

Oh yeah, outside shot of the opposite side of where it'll be coming out. As you can see the roof on the opposite side is lower than this side.
barn side small.jpg
 
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I think you are gonna want to stick to the 6" pipe that is recommended by the MFG. A 30 Deg and two 90 Deg bends in a total of 16 ft of pipe could bring some issues along with it. If needed would it be possible to extend the total pipe length by a few feet to compensate? If "yes", then I would bet it will work just fine. The Summer Heat is not known to be a real easy breathing stove, but not a miser, either.

Even if it means poking a hole in the roof, consider whatever method will give you the straightest run. A properly sealed pipe is nothing to worry about but the straighter the pipe is, the better for multiple reasons.
 
Personally I think you will be way better going up instead of out of the wall. One reason is draft. Straight up is best and the pipe is staying warm in a longer run. Which is also the next point. Putting the pipe outside your losing alot of potential heat that you would have off of the pipe inside.
 
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I have the same stove with two 45's and it's just over 15. I think it's 15'6" roughly and on warmer days draft can be finicky until I get her going. I seem to recall something saying not more than 90 degrees total in elbows so that may drastically cut down your draft. Just something to think about
 
The pipe will be inside until it either goes outside or goes through the ceiling. That'll be appx 12' of single wall. I'm guessing total length of the system is going to be 20-22'. I could make it taller, but it wouldn't be aesthetically pleasing if I keep going up with it.
 
I'd have to see the complete floor layout but were it me (and the door is gonna be gone) I would put the stove and hearth where the door is and go right up through the middle of the sky lights. Done properly there's no issue with a hole in a roof.
 
4ward said:
I'm looking at installing a Summers Heat 50‐SHSSW02 in my newly acquired 1800 sq ft home. I've been researching stoves for quite a while and I think this is my best fit for the money that I can spend currently. I'm putting the stove in this corner of the bottom floor. The door will be gone next summer.
View attachment 168985

I'm wondering about the chimney system. I'd prefer to go through the wall as the roof was redone appx. 3-4 years ago, and I don't want to poke a hole in it. I'm not completely against it, but I hate introducing a possible leak point in a good roof. No matter what I do, there's going to have to be a 30* bend appx 6' up from the top of the stove. I figure I could follow the roof line for 4-6' and then send it outside via a 90*. After that it'll go vertical appx. 8'-10' to the cap.The manual says to use 6" pipe, but it scares me to go that small with a 30* and two 90*'s, with one of them being an abrupt T. Tips, tricks, recommendations? Thanks

Oh yeah, outside shot of the opposite side of where it'll be coming out. As you can see the roof on the opposite side is lower than this side.
View attachment 169020
Click to expand...
tell us about the solar panel setup
 
Go through the roof. Done properly it will not affect the roof sealing at all. It will vent better and will be much easier to keep clean.
 
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Well, since the consensus is through the roof, guess I'll go that route. I used to be in construction and have seen way too many roof leaks.

Stove has to go in the corner. The windows that are next to the door are going to turn into a 3 panel sliding glass door.

I wish I knew about the solar. I bought this house as a foreclosure. The reservoir/ tempering tank and pump aren't there anymore. I'm also unsure if the system even holds water. I'll start messing around with it next summer. I know that it's a passive heating system that has air flowing underneath the slab. I can't wait to get it working again. Figure I'll start doing in depth research in the spring.
 
Our chimney went up through the roof 4 years after the new roof went on. It's been leak free in spite of torrential downpours. Follow the flashing installation directions and you should be fine.
 
4ward said:
I'm looking at installing a Summers Heat 50‐SHSSW02 in my newly acquired 1800 sq ft home. I've been researching stoves for quite a while and I think this is my best fit for the money that I can spend currently. I'm putting the stove in this corner of the bottom floor. The door will be gone next summer.
[
Click to expand...
What did you ultimately go with , id like to get some feedback on this particular stove ? The summers heat SHSS
 
I just built a beautiful custom log cabin. Big beautiful green metal roof on a 12:12 pitch. Each side of the roof is 22 feet by 32 feet. No dormers, no plumbing vent pipes, no holes in this beautiful roof.
Except for the wood stove pipe.

I am just like you I wanted to put in a couple of nineties and run that thing around the edge of the roof.
That is what I did on my last house and the roof never leaked. And the wood stove never drew properly.
I bit the bullet and ran that pipe straight up through the roof. After six months so far so good no leaks.
 
Simonkenton said:
I just built a beautiful custom log cabin. Big beautiful green metal roof on a 12:12 pitch. Each side of the roof is 22 feet by 32 feet. No dormers, no plumbing vent pipes, no holes in this beautiful roof.
Except for the wood stove pipe.

I am just like you I wanted to put in a couple of nineties and run that thing around the edge of the roof.
That is what I did on my last house and the roof never leaked. And the wood stove never drew properly.
I bit the bullet and ran that pipe straight up through the roof. After six months so far so good no leaks.
Click to expand...
So no ventilation or plumbing vents? How did you vent your plumbing? Just curious.
How did you flash your chimney?
 
Those are good questions. I did not do the plumbing. Although I did all the very complicated log and framing carpentry, and I did all wiring, didn't do the plumbing just don't like it.
There is a 14 foot framed dogtrot between the log cabin and the pre existing log cabin, the new log cabin is an addition.
There is no plumbing in the log part, there is a bathroom in the framed dog trot. Now that dog trot is just on a 3/12 pitch and I figured the plumber would go up there and run the plumbing vents through that roof. This guy didn't like heights at all, did the sink, shower, toilet and washing machine with Studor vents.

I also didn't install that wood stove. 12/12 pitch, metal roof. The bottom edge of the roof is 16 feet off the ground. I am pushing my luck in the first place to be a 65 year old construction guy, no way I was going up on that steep metal roof. Hired out the wood stove install for $1400.
These guys had a type of flashing that goes around the double wall stainless steel pipe as it exits the metal roof. This flashing sheet is thick rubber type stuff with glue on the bottom. It is 2 foot square. They put it over the pipe and laid it flat on the roof, they molded it to the ridges every 12 inches of the roof. Said they have been using this stuff for 8 years with good results.
Like I said so far so good I hope it doesn't leak because I sure as hell am not going up there.
 
Simonkenton said:
Those are good questions. I did not do the plumbing. Although I did all the very complicated log and framing carpentry, and I did all wiring, didn't do the plumbing just don't like it.
There is a 14 foot framed dogtrot between the log cabin and the pre existing log cabin, the new log cabin is an addition.
There is no plumbing in the log part, there is a bathroom in the framed dog trot. Now that dog trot is just on a 3/12 pitch and I figured the plumber would go up there and run the plumbing vents through that roof. This guy didn't like heights at all, did the sink, shower, toilet and washing machine with Studor vents.

I also didn't install that wood stove. 12/12 pitch, metal roof. The bottom edge of the roof is 16 feet off the ground. I am pushing my luck in the first place to be a 65 year old construction guy, no way I was going up on that steep metal roof. Hired out the wood stove install for $1400.
These guys had a type of flashing that goes around the double wall stainless steel pipe as it exits the metal roof. This flashing sheet is thick rubber type stuff with glue on the bottom. It is 2 foot square. They put it over the pipe and laid it flat on the roof, they molded it to the ridges every 12 inches of the roof. Said they have been using this stuff for 8 years with good results.
Like I said so far so good I hope it doesn't leak because I sure as hell am not going up there.
Click to expand...
Cool, I'm not familiar with flashing. Glad to hear it's not that little round rubber boot that most use.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
What did you ultimately go with , id like to get some feedback on this particular stove ? The summers heat SHSS
Click to expand...

I tried to get this stove through lowe's, but the people there were so inept. They had supposedly ordered it, but a week after I ordered it through them, they called and said they couldn't get it. I should've just done it myself through their website. So, I got ticked off and hopped on craigslist that night. I found someone selling a brand new nc-30 for $350 off retail. I picked it up and boy am I glad I did. That larger firebox paid off for my place.
 
I have the NC-30 as well. ,Its a good stove, but ill be selling one of mine this fall and purchasing that Summers heat 50- SHSS .That huge viewing window and the tall design will look so much better in the large open living space than the short squatty NC-30. Both of th e30s i have now are sitting atop a 16" high platform as the stove is too low to the floor to load and properly view the fire unless your laying on the floor.
 
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