what is the highest temp you like to run your stove

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iceman

Minister of Fire
Nov 18, 2006
2,403
Springfield Ma (western mass)
I have a summit insert trying to do 2000 plus i usually shut the air down around 550-650 and she goes up to 650-725 before coming down and settling at 550-650 at this temp i can really do the 2000+ anything cooler does not get the rooms way in the back warm enough this keeps temps 72-76 in the front and 68-70 in the back
what do you run your stove at?? please list make of stove and sq ft
 
1350 Sq. Ft. Cape, PE Vista insert, happiest at 550-600. Keeps whole house warm.
 
PAJerry said:
1350 Sq. Ft. Cape, PE Vista insert, happiest at 550-600. Keeps whole house warm.

ok you have a pe too great ... do you think i am runnng mine to hot at 700??? do you think i am overfiring?
 
Woodstock Keystone, in the coldest weather can coax 600-650 out of it though I run it at around 500 for the majority of the time, warmer weather, 30F+ cycle up and down from 550 to 300.
 
Castine f400 house approx. 2100sg feet. I will let the stove spike at 700* then let it run between 500* and 650* with air intake modified depending on the load size, species of wood etc.
 
Intrepid II. 650-700 F .
Stove at one end of 1965 house, 1400 sf. Use fan to push hot air down the hallway to bedrooms.
 
650-700 should be ok. Steel doesn't melt until the 3000 point if I remember right.

Edit nevermind I looked it up Iron is around 1800 and steel depends on grade seems 2500 is average
 
iceman said:
I have a summit insert trying to do 2000 plus i usually shut the air down around 550-650 and she goes up to 650-725 before coming down and settling at 550-650 at this temp i can really do the 2000+ anything cooler does not get the rooms way in the back warm enough this keeps temps 72-76 in the front and 68-70 in the back
what do you run your stove at?? please list make of stove and sq ft

I have a new Regency I3100 and am still leaning towards full air to keep my 1800 -2000 sf house even close to warm. My main question is what kind to thermometer do you use and where does one put it on a insert?

Thanks
Shipper
 
running that hot 650-700 isn't the "overfire" danger?
 
Shipper50 said:
iceman said:
I have a summit insert trying to do 2000 plus i usually shut the air down around 550-650 and she goes up to 650-725 before coming down and settling at 550-650 at this temp i can really do the 2000+ anything cooler does not get the rooms way in the back warm enough this keeps temps 72-76 in the front and 68-70 in the back
what do you run your stove at?? please list make of stove and sq ft

I have a new Regency I3100 and am still leaning towards full air to keep my 1800 -2000 sf house even close to warm. My main question is what kind to thermometer do you use and where does one put it on a insert?

Thanks
Shipper


run it on full air to get it hot once its hot close the air down and it should get even hotter for a while
my thermometer is on the fromt of my stove just above the door so i kinda get a idea of what its running at
and depending on layout it takes time to heat a house
 
iceman said:
running that hot 650-700 isn't the "overfire" danger?

No, you are in normal temp range and not in overfire danger. What you are seeing it the effect of secondary combustion burning.
 
BeGreen said:
iceman said:
running that hot 650-700 isn't the "overfire" danger?

No, you are in normal temp range and not in overfire danger. What you are seeing it the effect of secondary combustion burning.

so when do you get to overfire? i can run my stove at 700+ with no problems? (say 700-800 i believe 800 is the highest it goes)
 
Steel stoves can run hot. If it gets to 800-850, damper it down and if there is a blower on the stove, run it on high.

Some say the stove is overfiring when it starts to glow. Keeping it below a rare spike up to 850 will avoid having to explore that possibility.
 
BeGreen said:
Steel stoves can run hot. If it gets to 800-850, damper it down and if there is a blower on the stove, run it on high.

Some say the stove is overfiring when it starts to glow. Keeping it below a rare spike up to 850 will avoid having to explore that possibility.
good to know i am gonna go for trying to keep it between 650-800 and see if that helps heating the back rooms gonna try to get them up
 
Most likely you will need power assist to circulate the heat. Is there a blower on the stove? Have you tried placing a box (or a table) fan at the entrance of the back rooms blowing *towards* the wood stove?
 
Consult your manual on "normal" operating temps and placement of thermometer.

VC advises that "A temperature reading over 750F is a sign to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate. Readings in the 300-400F range indicated low to medium heat output. Readings of 500-650F indicate high heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously at griddle temperatures of 750F or higher may damage inner parts or the enamel finish."
As a practical matter, I never operate in the 300-400 range because it's not hot enough to engage the catalytic combustion (typ. 450F minimum needed, with good ember bed).
 
I think that is part of the problem. VC has been good about including specific instructions for burning temps. Other stoves have no mention at all of specific temps. That's the case with the PE docs.
 
BeGreen said:
Most likely you will need power assist to circulate the heat. Is there a blower on the stove? Have you tried placing a box (or a table) fan at the entrance of the back rooms blowing *towards* the wood stove?

The Summit insert is standard with a blower.
 
iceman said:
Shipper50 said:
iceman said:
I have a summit insert trying to do 2000 plus i usually shut the air down around 550-650 and she goes up to 650-725 before coming down and settling at 550-650 at this temp i can really do the 2000+ anything cooler does not get the rooms way in the back warm enough this keeps temps 72-76 in the front and 68-70 in the back
what do you run your stove at?? please list make of stove and sq ft

I have a new Regency I3100 and am still leaning towards full air to keep my 1800 -2000 sf house even close to warm. My main question is what kind to thermometer do you use and where does one put it on a insert?

Thanks
Shipper


run it on full air to get it hot once its hot close the air down and it should get even hotter for a while
my thermometer is on the fromt of my stove just above the door so i kinda get a idea of what its running at
and depending on layout it takes time to heat a house

Why does this never work on my stove?? With a full and well burning load of wood, I can get the pipe temp (magnetic- about 15" from stove top) to about 500 but whenever I start to close the damper the temp always drops and will idle around 300-350. If I dare to shut it all the way, I get a smolder and eventually, a temp in 150's. It NEVER goes up or even stays the same when I start closing it. What is going on? ~Regency F2400
 
Why does this never work on my stove?? With a full and well burning load of wood, I can get the pipe temp (magnetic- about 15" from stove top) to about 500 but whenever I start to close the damper the temp always drops and will idle around 300-350. If I dare to shut it all the way, I get a smolder and eventually, a temp in 150's. It NEVER goes up or even stays the same when I start closing it. What is going on? ~Regency F2400[/quote]
Could be a couple things.
1. Wet wood
2. Not enough draft.

Tell us about the set-up and what are you using for wood?
 
MichaelS said:
Why does this never work on my stove?? With a full and well burning load of wood, I can get the pipe temp (magnetic- about 15" from stove top) to about 500 but whenever I start to close the damper the temp always drops and will idle around 300-350. If I dare to shut it all the way, I get a smolder and eventually, a temp in 150's. It NEVER goes up or even stays the same when I start closing it. What is going on? ~Regency F2400
Could be a couple things.
1. Wet wood
2. Not enough draft.

Tell us about the set-up and what are you using for wood?[/quote]



the wood: Maple (not sure what type) and ash--but mostly maple. Could be dryer but I am careful to keep a couple days supply right next to the stove to help dry it out faster. When I do this, it doesn't "boil" or hiss and lights pretty quickly.
Here is a picture of the setup. Single wall pipe, the chimney is central to the house. I'm not really sure of the chimney size-it measures about 8 or 9 inches across on the interior and the house is two story.
I know I'm burning up too much wood trying to keep my stove out of the danger zone on the thermometer. I pretty much leave it wide open until I get glowing logs then I can close it down a little less than half but no more than that. At night, I load it up and let it burn for at least half an hour then I close the damper 3/4. I will have enough coals in the morning to start a fire and the window is usually very clean. (but this is a ten hour night, not eight)
 
With it being a 2 story I would be inclined to say it isnt a draft problem but a wet wood problem. hopefully someone else can chime in here and see if they notice something I missed.
 
mbk2000 said:
iceman said:
Shipper50 said:
iceman said:
I have a summit insert trying to do 2000 plus i usually shut the air down around 550-650 and she goes up to 650-725 before coming down and settling at 550-650 at this temp i can really do the 2000+ anything cooler does not get the rooms way in the back warm enough this keeps temps 72-76 in the front and 68-70 in the back
what do you run your stove at?? please list make of stove and sq ft

I have a new Regency I3100 and am still leaning towards full air to keep my 1800 -2000 sf house even close to warm. My main question is what kind to thermometer do you use and where does one put it on a insert?

Thanks
Shipper


run it on full air to get it hot once its hot close the air down and it should get even hotter for a while
my thermometer is on the fromt of my stove just above the door so i kinda get a idea of what its running at
and depending on layout it takes time to heat a house

Why does this never work on my stove?? With a full and well burning load of wood, I can get the pipe temp (magnetic- about 15" from stove top) to about 500 but whenever I start to close the damper the temp always drops and will idle around 300-350. If I dare to shut it all the way, I get a smolder and eventually, a temp in 150's. It NEVER goes up or even stays the same when I start closing it. What is going on? ~Regency F2400

I have the same with my Regency i2400 insert. I always leave it full open and it heats fine. I've tried several different wood sources and it makes no difference. My chimney is only 16' so that may be part of it.
 
Sounds like "not completly seasoned wood"- if you have to bring it in to 'dry' for a few days, may
not hiss and spit- but still not throughy dry.

Start my Lopi and let it run up to 600 on the surface and 1000-1100 on the pipe, then switch it over to secondary
combustion. Temps drop to 450-500 on the surface and 400-600 on the pipe. Surface rises over time to 500-600 but the
stack drops to 350-450 or so and stays in that area.
 
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