OMG I am really starting to hate my Austroflamm Pellet Stove.

RancherPacker said:

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.[/

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RancherPacker said:

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.

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OK Reading the post I am replying to,you seem to think you have 3 fans.OK forget all this,Slight chance your air flow sensor is bad,but very slight.order a new/used,rebuilt control board and you will be happy.

Well I work on these part time,am an auto mechanic,have run one of these stoves for many years.I still run my original control board/but 2 years ago it screwed up,soldered in 3 caps and has been running still.Joe sold me the updated prom,works great.The two temp switches would cause constant problems,The airflow sensor is hard to diagnos,but goes bad rarely,mostky if you bummped it.dropped it etc.You have one of the best stoves ever made,take care of it and it will take care of you.

RancherPacker said:

Just updating what is happening with my stove. I have one of Joe's rebuilt boards coming. I have hospital grade GTT Electronics Surge Supressor. Today I jumped the snap disc (again) that is at the convection blower = no change stove still went out after 30ish minutes. Then I left that jump on and jumped the snap disc nearest the exhaust blower = no change stove still went out after 30 ish minutes. Then I removed the convection side jump and stove ran as normal. (probably just luck) after a few hours I turned stove to highest setting and it went out after 20 minutes. Now I have the jumps all removed. Hoping to get the stove running on low again. Tomorrow I hope to remove the convection fan and clean and oil it up in preparation of installing Joe's rebuilt main board when it arrives soon.

I really appreciate everyone helping me with troubleshooting. THANKS!

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Hopefully this does not muddy the waters . Concerning the Convection fan. If you've yet to remove the fan ....Tracing the wire back to the control board is a painstaking hassle . Since you'll be taking the fan out once a year to clean ,... cutting the wires and reattaching with this or similar will save you some time and effort http://www.lowes.com/pd_136010-12704-770310_1z0yt4q__?productId=3363058&pl=1 At least that what I've done. Works for me. Hope this helps and good luck

Well that is great news.
I would put the new circuit board in when you get it from Joe and use the old one for backup. The new one would have the latest Eprom and your stove will run more efficiently.
If you use the terminals as Pinetop suggested put a male/female on the fan side and a male/female on the terminal side the. Do one wire at a time.

What is a little disconcerting is that it seems you did not unplug your stove when working on it. Had you done so you may have found the problem earlier.

UPDATE: Joe's Board came today, turned stove off cleaned whole interior, pot and all for nice clean start. NOPE new rebuilt board isn't doing any better than the original board I bought the stove with. What do I buy now?? AIR SENSOR?? This Austroflamm is giving me a head ache LOL seriously I would like to get it running properly. Still has TALL lazy dark orange flame soots up the glass in an hour. I turned the air up and down on the user control board so I know it is now all the way up. Turned pellet feed up and down left it at medium low. Both fans are on. I am not cold by any means I just know the stove is not performing right.

Omg you're killing me!

1. Low limit, it's plastic, possibly brittle and when the stove gets warm, pin loosens and continuity is lost, stops feeding. Take the low limit off and jump the connection see if will run on all temps for longer.

2. High limit, also a plastic switch, sometimes the screws that hold it in are too big for the holes on the metal ring attached to the cap and the pin looses continuity, which will stop the feeding until the temp drops. You can jump that one too.

3. Are your tstat connections on the motherboard connected? Stove will start and run for 35 minutes then shut down.

4. Verify low limit is a F140-20 switch, verify high limit is a L200-50 switch

5. Auger bushing?????? Is there wood dust under the auger motor leaking through the bushing and slowing or binding up the feed?

6.digital optical sensor...got lint caught across the resistor?

My bet is on faulty low limit or tstat connection.

Remove the air sensor and blast it with some mass air flow sensor cleaner from an auto parts store.

You're killing all of us that know about these stoves, and if you keep running it maybe yourself!

I think I read somewhere that someone sent you the service manual - it's a must have, yet you do not seem to be using it to troubleshoot. You just seem to be throwing parts at it. There also is no need touch the adjustments, especially to fix your problem - they are for fine tuning, and in 20+ years of owning these stoves I have never touched them. Use your manual and a volt meter, and get them back to factory specs.

Did you check the door tightness and gasket seals as I previously asked? Combustion blower gasket, rear air passage end cap gasket? You've never mentioned anything about your flue set-up - possible blockage?

This is an open flame heating device in your home - fix it right or not at all.

RancherPacker said:

Look I came here for help, I am not throwing parts at it other people have suggested everything and every part I have done with the stove . Who do I believe you or them or all of you. No magic mirror to see if I should do as they say or as you say. YES I checked the door tightness and the gasket seals and the dollar bill test, checked rear air passage end cap gasket. My flue set-up is one 45 degree elbow then straight out the wall with a 5' length with end cap. Just did the leaf blower trick also. If there is anything I have not checked it's the combustion blower gasket. I WILL fix it right as soon as I figure out what it is I need to FIX. I know about open flame devices I have heated with wood stoves all my life. I am just new to pellet stoves and having a bit of a time getting this Austroflamm working right. I have hear nothing but good about Austroflamms and I will see this through even if I am starting to hate it LOL

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OK everybody, let's settle down.

Does you door glass have flat gaskets sealing the glass everywhere except the top? Does the door latch offer some resistance as you latch it?

I had to adjust the trim pots on mine to get the flame right. I don't know if the PO messed with them but it won't hurt to turn your fuel feed all the way down and air flow all the way up to see if it makes a difference. Try it. You won't wreck anything. Refer to the manual on which way to turn them to get the desired result. One of the pots is not intuitive to me and I always need to check which way to turn it. You want max air and min fuel. If it doesn't make a difference then we look somewhere else. You either have air leakage "downstream" of the burn pot, restricted flue passages (probably not that based on what you've said) or the computer board is not commanding the fan to run fast enough. Bottom line, you need more air, less fuel.

My stove soots up the glass in the first couple of hours of running. Still heats great so I dont worry about not being able to see the fire. When mine is turned down below 1/4 the flame will be lazy because the eeprom regulates the air and feed at the same time. lower temp setting=lower feed rate and lower air flow.

You could try removing the end cap on the flue to see if that might be causing some back pressure, Sounds like you just need more air, less fuel.....but mostly more combustion air.You have the ash pan installed, right? I can't remember what that area looks like and I'm only about 1500 miles away from mine. I think the burn pot seals to the metal frame under the ash pan. On the pots, fully clockwise on the air, fully counterclockwise on the fuel.....be gentle. The only other thing I can think of is if it is still dirty in the passage above the burn pot where the flue flue gas goes to the front of the top area of the fire box and then goes toward the back of the stove and down around the tubes. I used to blow that area out with a compressor and ash gets hard and caked in there. Hard to reach without a small furnace brush. If that doesn't make it burn any better maybe you got a bum airflow sensor. After that, I'm out of ideas. My insert has a tall flue so I usually have plenty of natural draft plus the combustion fan.