My "OAK"? Pictures attached.

Deezl Smoke · Dec 19, 2015

Combustion air has to come from somewhere. Some folks prefer, or for other reasons, can not, use a piped oak directly to the stove. But still, the air must enter the house, so it can then enter the combustion chamber to burn the fuel, then exit the stove to the outside.

I could have installed the oak type thimbles, but chose not to as even in the summer months when the stoves are not in use, I needed a means to move air into the house when I run a free standing air conditioner.

So for my situation, as I removed an old wall mount natural gas furnace, I installed a new thimble with a 3" hole and bought an automotive K&N air filter that fit just right over the insulated 3".

This is not for everyone. In fact, likely not for anyone but me, but I figured I would share as so many of you share your set ups, and I like to learn how others do things.

On the pic of the outside of my house, the left pipe is the oak, and the right pipe is the stove exhaust.

Thanks for looking.

3650 · Dec 19, 2015

umm I think you are meant to run the outside air to the pellet stove. Maybe I'm not seeing this right but it just looks like you have simple put a vent in your wall.

Tim_M · Dec 19, 2015

I also devised a somewhat unconventional OAK for my Accentra insert, via the ash clean-out chute that was built into the original fireplace firebox. Since the opening for that chute is immediately behind the rear of the insert, I removed the steel plate cover over that opening, and on the outside of the chimney I replaced the removable steel access panel with a plastic attic vent. This way outside air can be drawn in and up the chute to feed the combustion intake. At least that's the theory, I'm not sure how much outside air is being drawn in vs inside air, but I figure it should help reduce the negative pressure and resulting cold air drafts inside the house.

Deezl Smoke · Dec 19, 2015

3650 said:
umm I think you are meant to run the outside air to the pellet stove. Maybe I'm not seeing this right but it just looks like you have simple put a vent in your wall.

Yes, that's what it actually is, a vent. But the term OAK is usually accepted as a general catch phrase to mean anything that allows outside air into the house for combustion of fuel as a heat source. At least that is how it seems to be received around here. Yes, the K is for "kit", but unless there is a question that requires exact technical explanation, the term OAK seems to be accepted in a general sense. It is easy to say and easy to type.

Deezl Smoke · Dec 19, 2015

Tim_M said:
I also devised a somewhat unconventional OAK for my Accentra insert, via the ash clean-out chute that was built into the original fireplace firebox. Since the opening for that chute is immediately behind the rear of the insert, I removed the steel plate cover over that opening, and on the outside of the chimney I replaced the removable steel access panel with a plastic attic vent. This way outside air can be drawn in and up the chute to feed the combustion intake. At least that's the theory, I'm not sure how much outside air is being drawn in vs inside air, but I figure it should help reduce the negative pressure and resulting cold air drafts inside the house.

It likely does work as you intended. High pressure tends to move to equalize low pressure. So if you are puling air into your insert from inside the house, and adding fuel, then exhausting outside the house, the combustion air usage causes a low pressure inside the house. I wonder if you were to put a small furnace filter at the inlet on the chimney, you would see that air is coming in. That is assuming the rest of the house is pretty sealed and tight.

Cory S · Dec 19, 2015

You are going to be pulling cold air right into the living space. Leaving a window open an inch or two will do the same thing. I don't think this is theoretically a good plan IMHO.

Pete Zahria · Dec 19, 2015

Deezl Smoke said:
But the term OAK is usually accepted as a general catch phrase to mean anything that allows outside air into the house

Around here we call that a window...

The OAK takes outside air, and plumbs it directly into the stove's air intake port.

Dan

NHcpa · Dec 19, 2015

Hhmmmm... We being funny here?

BUBIBEAR · Dec 19, 2015

Neat looking job . But the "OAK" has two jobs. Number one ,allowing outside air directly to the combustion part off the stove ,without using the heated air in the house . Number two ,is for safety, should there be a power failure the smoke from a smoldering stove would be directed outside by this connection .Without the connection to the intake tube on the stove , the smoke will backup into your living area . Smoke damage is bad news .

ps50 · Dec 19, 2015

I'm no pellet stove expert, so maybe the experts can help me out . An oak is hooked up directly to the stove right? So if outside air is the same thing as an outside air kit i can cut a hole in my wall, put a vent in, or open the window and i have an oak?

ps50 · Dec 19, 2015

That doesn't sound right lol

Tonyray · Dec 19, 2015

ps50 said:
I'm no pellet stove expert, so maybe the experts can help me out . An oak is hooked up directly to the stove right? So if outside air is the same thing as an outside air kit i can cut a hole in my wall, put a vent in, or open the window and i have an oak?

Inside pix is Oak and exhaust..[Sorry for multiple pictures..[
outside pix is OAK kit with air inlet under the bottom pipe
Without the OAK we used to feel a draft at the floor level... Air moving it's way back to the stove.

.

Marina1327 · Dec 19, 2015

ps50 said:
That doesn't sound right lol

I got what you meant....lol

I personally do not have an OAK hooked up to my stove. I might think about it later though

BUBIBEAR · Dec 19, 2015

No it is not the same .If the outside air duct is not connected to the stoves connection tube ,and to the outside air port . In a power failure the smoke caused by lack of the draft induced by the combustion blower The point of least resistance is the open intake tube on the stove. And that is where the smoke will enter your home.

johneh · Dec 19, 2015

ps50 said:
I'm no pellet stove expert, so maybe the experts can help me out . An oak is hooked up directly to the stove right? So if outside air is the same thing as an outside air kit i can cut a hole in my wall, put a vent in, or open the window and i have an oak?

In the broadest sense you are correct
BUT to be totally correct in this instance the oak should be connected to the appliance
so that outside air is used for combustion NOT just dumped into the room .
Don't need no frigen OAK just open a window then you are heating the big outdoors

ps50 · Dec 19, 2015

Yeah i didn't think so. So what does cutting a hole in the wall and putting a vent in do? Besides letting cold air in your house.

twodogs02 · Dec 19, 2015

Not sure i buy it, seems like a joke. Exposed romex coming up through the floor, many code issues here.

funflyer · Dec 19, 2015

twodogs02 said:
Seems like a joke.

It's the only reasonable explanation!

ps50 · Dec 19, 2015

Was wonder if i was the only one questioning that.

Zeus · Dec 20, 2015

Deezl Smoke said:
Combustion air has to come from somewhere. Some folks prefer, or for other reasons, can not, use a piped oak directly to the stove. But still, the air must enter the house, so it can then enter the combustion chamber to burn the fuel, then exit the stove to the outside.

I could have installed the oak type thimbles, but chose not to as even in the summer months when the stoves are not in use, I needed a means to move air into the house when I run a free standing air conditioner.

So for my situation, as I removed an old wall mount natural gas furnace, I installed a new thimble with a 3" hole and bought an automotive K&N air filter that fit just right over the insulated 3".

This is not for everyone. In fact, likely not for anyone but me, but I figured I would share as so many of you share your set ups, and I like to learn how others do things.

On the pic of the outside of my house, the left pipe is the oak, and the right pipe is the stove exhaust.

Thanks for looking.
View attachment 169748 View attachment 169749

Deezl I was thinking of using a similar set up as you are for an OAK, looks pretty simple install. How often do you think the K&N filter will have to be cleaned and recharged?

Deezl Smoke · Dec 20, 2015

Zeus said:
Deezl I was thinking of using a similar set up as you are for an OAK, looks pretty simple install. How often do you think the K&N filter will have to be cleaned and recharged?

Every 50,000 miles.............

It's a very simple install. Has only two 90 degree corners, so the inlet air is not impeded, just needed to reduce the influence of any wind from the south. The filter is automotive to go with the "theme" I am currently using for my interior. It is automotive/industrial. So it seemed right to use the automotive K&N. I needed something to act as a final or secondary insect barrier. I have screen at the inlet for larger insects like moths or bees, but also wish to keep as many mites and other small insects out. I live on a farm in the country and we have a lot of fruit grown in the area.

But seriously, I dont know how often to clean the filter as I just put this whole thing together this past spring. I will be curious to take the filter to the air compressor and see how much dust comes out of it sometime.

I talked to the tech folks at Castle before I bought the stoves. I bought them from ACE hardware on sale. Castle agreed that though it is my risk alone for the decision to not run the OAK piping to a thimble with the attachment, that my exhaust plumbing being so perfectly plumbed for efficiency, that in the event of a power failure, the smoke should continue to be pulled out of the stove thermally.
My intention is to run the stoves via solar. That was mainly the "why" I posted the wattage used at start up and running in a previous thread, and partially the why I bought these stoves. The wattage is low enough to run on a very simple and affordable solar set up. I just have not got that far yet. So keeping my fingers crossed that we dont have a power failure before I do.

Thanks for looking.

Marina1327 · Dec 20, 2015

Deezl Smoke said:
Every 50,000 miles.............
It's a very simple install. Has only two 90 degree corners, so the inlet air is not impeded, just needed to reduce the influence of any wind from the south. The filter is automotive to go with the "theme" I am currently using for my interior. It is automotive/industrial. So it seemed right to use the automotive K&N. I needed something to act as a final or secondary insect barrier. I have screen at the inlet for larger insects like moths or bees, but also wish to keep as many mites and other small insects out. I live on a farm in the country and we have a lot of fruit grown in the area.

But seriously, I dont know how often to clean the filter as I just put this whole thing together this past spring. I will be curious to take the filter to the air compressor and see how much dust comes out of it sometime.

I talked to the tech folks at Castle before I bought the stoves. I bought them from ACE hardware on sale. Castle agreed that though it is my risk alone for the decision to not run the OAK piping to a thimble with the attachment, that my exhaust plumbing being so perfectly plumbed for efficiency, that in the event of a power failure, the smoke should continue to be pulled out of the stove thermally.
My intention is to run the stoves via solar. That was mainly the "why" I posted the wattage used at start up and running in a previous thread, and partially the why I bought these stoves. The wattage is low enough to run on a very simple and affordable solar set up. I just have not got that far yet. So keeping my fingers crossed that we dont have a power failure before I do.

Thanks for looking.

Definitely post pics when you get the solar setup...I would like to see it.

Pete Zahria · Dec 20, 2015

ps50 said:
So if outside air is the same thing as an outside air kit
i can cut a hole in my wall, put a vent in, or open the window and i have an oak?

Or... you can just leave your front door opened...

womaus · Dec 20, 2015

Pete Zahria said:
Or... you can just leave your front door opened...

Or maybe a retractable roof? That would work...

bags · Dec 20, 2015

You need to hook some pipe to your "vent-oak" to have a correct hook up situation. Otherwise you simply just have a hole in the side of your house that will be more than happy to let cold air roll into the inside your are trying to heat. What you have simply defeats the purpose of an OAK.

In fact, you would be better of without any OAK vs. what you have. It is mentioned above but all you have done is the same as leaving a window open. The K & N does nothing other than hopefully keep bugs and critters out. You have a hole in the side of your house. And the Castle techs or whoever said this is a good set up doesn't know what they are talking about.

My "OAK"? Pictures attached.

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