Tactics for burning semi-seasoned wood

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gyrfalcon

Minister of Fire
Dec 25, 2007
1,836
Champlain Valley, Vermont
This site and you folks who post to the forums are just awesome!
Would you throw some of that awesomeness my way and give me
some advice on fire-building with less than perfect wood?

Of course I'm a newbie, and of course I have the apparently
universal problem of not having adequately seasoned wood for my
first winter. The better of the two cords I have (from two
different sources) is mixed hardwood, mostly maple, that was
cut and split last week from logs that had been lying in an open
field in the sun since April. The more troublesome stuff, which
I'm not even trying to burn this year now, is maple tops from
trees that were cut down and left lying in the woods this spring
before being hauled out, cut and split a couple weeks ago.

This is apparently not uncommon practice here, and the many folks
who use large and generally older woodstoves for their main
source of heat consider it adequate seasoning, so I'm told.

Have I understood right from things I've read on this forum that
it's typical that my fairly new small non-cat stove (Hearthstone
Tribute, with a newly installed SS chimney) chokes on wood older
stoves will happily burn? I think the term I read in one post
was that the new stoves were "unforgiving" of unseasoned wood.

In any case, I have no fully seasoned wood this year and have to
figure out how to make do with the better of the two lots I do
have. I'm using the stove only as a supplement, but hopefully a
major one, to oil heat. When I've been able to get it up to a
modest operating temperature (300-400), it does just what I need
it to do.

But I sure can't get it there with the standard non-cat
techniques I've read so much about here and elsewhere. Top-down,
front to back on front coals, fire cycles, and a well-filled
firebox all produce smoky smoldering with occasional licks of
flame and a stovetop temp that doesn't even move the thermometer.

If any of you wise wood-burners have a tip or three to pass on
about how to get the most out of semi-seasoned wood, I'd sure
appreciate hearing them. I do know about chimney creosote
build-up with this kind of wood, but I'd rather have the chimney
checked a couple times this winter than just give up until next year.

Experimenting on my own, I've been having better luck falling
back on my old fireplace and campfire building habits--
continuous bottom-up fires with smaller splits criss-crossed (to
the extent possible in such a small stove) to provide just the
right amount of airflow, adding bigger pieces one or two at a
time on active fires, rather than letting a big load burn down to
coals and starting over with a new one. It does mean constant
tending and liberal use of the poker to keep the spacing, but I
can live with that if that's the way to go. If this is what
works, is there any reason I shouldn't do it this way, in a
continuous fire rather than a cycle of letting it all burn down
and then starting over?

And would it all work better if I had some smaller 8 or 9-inch
wood I could place front to back, instead of having everything go
side to side? Well, I guess I know the answer to that, but what
I mean is whether it would make a big enough difference in
getting a hot enough fire to burn the semi-seasoned wood to be
worth the hassle and expense of getting a good amount of it
cut down to that size for me.

A second thing I would appreciate advice on is further
splitting the over-large half-splits in the load I have. I'm
thinking of getting one of the manual devices like the
vertical Wood Wiz or Easy Splitter, or the Fireplace Friend
horizontal splitter I've seen advertised where you stomp on a
lever to work the splitter. I can't find any of these devices
for sale around here, so I'll have to mail-order without a chance
to even eyeball the thing directly.

As a single middle-aged female in decent physical shape, it's
just beyond me to go swinging even a lighter maul or axe
repeatedly with any kind of precision. I don't want and really
don't need an expensive electric or gas or even hydraulic
splitter, and I don't think it makes sense to try to learn how to
use and maintain that kind of machinery by myself at this point
in my life! But I don't want to be dependent either on having to
hire someone to come and split a relatively small amount of
cordwood for me. It's probably going to be a continuing problem
over the years that some amount of the wood I get will just be
too big to use in my little Tribute.

Do any of you have any thoughts about which of these two general
types is more likely to be something I could manage by myself
reasonably well? I wouldn't be doing huge numbers of splits,
maybe a dozen or so a week at most. With not much upper body
strength (although I'm sure improving with all the wood I've been
hauling around and stacking!), would the horizontal stomp-on
thingy likely be easier for me than the vertical one, where you
pull the splitter up and throw it down repeatedly?

Thank you so much in advance for any advice you can give me.

Hearthstone Tribute
New SS chimney
 
Well the bad news is your wood has not had really a chance to fall into the seasoned category. Expesially being a hard wood and not dead standing when it fell.
It being left whole in round uptill 2 weeks ago was its doom. Your gonna waste alot of heat just boiling that moisture out and makin that new ss liner of yours a sticky mess know matter how you slice it. Its not magic. Others may chime in after my comments and tell you to mix with pallet wood. Id say save it
for next year and get your value out of it. The good news is cut up and burn the odd pallet and get your fix on burnin because thats a real nice stove.
This is just my opinion. Good luck and welcome to the Hearth.
 
Yeah, I've only been doing this for a few years, so I'm no expert at all. But I agree that if it isn't seasoned, it's not good. Our first year we made due with leftover wood (a lot of 2x4's etc) from our house which was just built. That plus a little (maybe half a cord?) seasoned hardwood and we made it out of the first year. The second year I cut wood and received a lot of cut wood, but it was not seasoned and I needed wood when winter came. I mixed it with pallets and 2x4's but we also had a lot of smoke sometimes. Now that I've got wood that is seasoned (it's nice to get ahead of the game), there's no problem with burning. I wonder if you burned something like pallets and rotated some of the maple into the house, near the fire (not too near) whether it would dry out enough to burn some of it? The experts here will know.
 
One thing I did not notice was the ability to buy some seasoned wood in the meantime. Around this time of year it is common for people to come look at the wood I am selling because they are tired of getting the ' so called seasoned ' crap . Perhaps this is an option for you. It might very well be more expensive that the normal wood for sale, but believe me, people who sell wood keep the best for themselves, it's human nature I guess. I myself have 5 extra cords of wood that is 2 years seasoned, mostly for myself in next years winter, but for the desperate people whose wallet runs a little deeper than most. If you do succeed on finding some, space the seasoned at the bottom in the firebox, and the smaller split green pieces at the top of the pile. This should help out with getting and keeping a fire going.


Desperate times call for desperate measures. In so far as splitting, maybe there is some teenager who can split wood for some small exchange of money. The suggestion of burning pallet wood is a very good suggestion, it may be a lot of work getting what you need, and just be careful, some of that stuff is very dry and can get out of control easily.


Another thing you can try is to split the wood you do have into small pieces, that would allow the air to get to all the wood, helping you from poking the fire all the time.

The top down fire technique did not work too well for me in my Homestead. I have been making a trench in the ash/coals, placing 2 pieces north/south, the the newspaper twists, then the small kindling on top of the newspaper. What helped me out was to make a trench from the front to back in the middle of the stove, from the air wash, all the way back to rear wall and keep one there. This will allow air to get to the bottom of the pile and again help you from tending the fire all the time. This method has been allowing me to get 8-10 hour burn times on all kinds of wood, Maple, Locust, Red Oak, and Mulberry. 2 years seasoned out of course.
 
If you have green wood, you might try bringing it into a basement or porch, stacking it loosely, and sticking a good fan on it. This will work slightly better if the wood is also exposed to direct sunlight. Try this for a week continuously and then burn some. See if it bubbles or hisses . . . if not, perhaps you are in passable shape. Clearly this method is not ideal, but it seems everyone makes many of these kinds of mistakes at the start.

Of course the downside is that you'll pay for fan electricity, but not much.

Pallets are also a good option. I've been trying to hoard them. Since I can't get an 8 hour overnight burn (my wood is only 9 months seasoned and I only have 2 cu ft firebox) they help to get the temperature up quickly in the morning. I also figure pallets are a good ready to burn reserve for late February when I'll probably start running out of wood. Just mix pallets with hardwood to avoid overfiring your stove. Sometimes you get lucky and get hardwood pallets.

Good luck.
 
"I have no fully seasoned wood this year and have to
figure out how to make do with the better of the two lots I do
have."

THAT sucks...really...if I were you I wouldn't fuss with the wood. If possible i'd try to score some seasoned to get you through this year. "Burning" semi-seasoned wood just isn't worth the potential chimney fire you are begging for. Somebody has to have some decent stuff for sale. If not you could go the pallet wood route.

A hissing 300-400F fire is just no good.
 
Thanks for the welcome, North of 60! (I'm just barely south of there myself.)

I haven't actually had any hissing and spitting from my better lot of wood, at least that I've noticed. I keep reminding myself to look carefully for it, but given how much time I'm spending fussing with the fire, I think there can't be much of that going on if I haven't noticed it. Can you tell from the cut-up wood whether the tree was alive or dead when it was cut down? It's a question I didn't think to ask. But I don't think it's quite so bad. It looks and smells reasonably dry, the bark is falling off some of the pieces and at least a few have a couple of cracks in the cut ends. It does burn if I build the fire right, but doesn't consistently get the temperature up as high as it could be. Some kind neighbors loaned me a small supply of their several-years-seasoned wood early on, and that behaved exactly as all the instructions tells you it should, so that's my point of comparison.

There's no truly seasoned wood to be had around here at all at any price that I've been able to find, and I had to make many calls, pester everybody I know and visit a lot of general store bulletin boards just to find this. Around here, people are mostly like many of you and they cut their own firewood from their own woodlots and do a little business here and there on the side selling their excess to neighbors. When the price of heating oil shot up again this year, everybody with a functioning woodstove got real serious about using it, and the available cut wood was snapped up early. There are only a handful of actual dealers within a couple-hour drive, and they're all completely sold out.

Also, this is an area of family farms and very small towns where everybody knows everybody, and there's a real price to pay in the community if you cheat your neighbor. Neither of the guys in the next town I got the two lots of wood from has a bad reputation here, and when they tell me they burn wood treated this way themselves, I believe them.

I'd gladly use pallet wood, but since I don't have the equipment, the expertise or the strength to get them and cut them up myself, it's not so simple. I think sometimes you strong men don't fully realize that what's a fairly simple job of physical work for you is impossible for those of us on the opposite side of the gender gap, especially if we haven't been doing this kind of work all our lives and are staring at it from the far edge of middle age!

Lignums, thanks very much for the suggestion about keeping a north/south trench. I will definitely try that.

I have half a cord of the better wood stacked in my attached (unheated) woodshed and the other half on my south-facing enclosed porch, which when the sun is out is quite warm. I've been bringing in a two or three-day supply at a time to warm up and dry out for a day or two in a stack a few feet from the safe range near the hearth, so I think I'm doing that part right, at least.

I do want to split some of this wood down further, preferably myself. Does anybody have any experience at all, even word of mouth, with the Wood Wiz or the horizontal "Fireplace Friend" manual splitters? I could manage one of those safely myself, I think.
 
Woodconvert, the little Tribute stove instruction manual says 300-400 is OK, in the "medium burn" range, and the fire doesn't hiss that I've been aware of.
 
I am in a similar situation but we usually only burn on the weekends, more so this week. Splitting the wood smaller helps, like any exercise you have to start slow and light and then build up as your strength and endurance increases.

I loosely stack wood in the storage area in the basement for two weeks, it makes a big improvement. I am working on getting more ahead. Our house is dry, 30-40% relative humidity, so the extra moisture can't hurt. I haven't tried using fans but the room has air circulation and is large.

As you go along you will learn about the different species of wood you have. I have no idea about the names but am starting to be able to tell which ones will not burn well. Weight/density, bark, grain, and split surface texture are the features I am paying attention to.

Kevin.
 
gyrfalcon said:
I think sometimes you strong men don't fully realize that what's a fairly simple job of physical work for you is impossible for those of us on the opposite side of the gender gap, especially if we haven't been doing this kind of work all our lives and are staring at it from the far edge of middle age!
Nothing like some manual splitting to build yourself back up ;-P

Truly- I'm a lady well on the far side of 50 and light splitting like you mention isn't that difficult. Using a 6 lb. maul and further splitting already split splits should be well within your capability. Sure beats paying for a gym.
 
"Woodconvert, the little Tribute stove instruction manual says 300-400 is OK, in the “medium burn” range, and the fire doesn’t hiss that I’ve been aware of."

Can you easily exceed the 400F if you wanted to?. I only ask as 300-400 isn't very hot and if you've got wet wood it's hard to get beyond that temp. If it's not hissing i'd say you may be ok then. Something i've done ONLY WHEN I'M HOME is i'll set some "needing some quick seasoning" wood on the hearth about 12"-18" from the stove while it's crankin' (i've also set it on the warming shelves). In two to three hours the stuff is ready to go...NOT something i'd recommend if you are forgetful or are busy doing something else but i've yet to set a stick of wood on fire on my hearth (I must admit it smells REAL good too). Now, having said that....I couldn't see me drying two cords that way but if you need some good dry wood to start a fire this will help. Again, though, this shouldn't be done if you can't keep an eye on it.
 
I don't know what your current financial situation is, but I would reccomend getting at least a cord of SEASONED wood to get the coal bed started and then throw on some of the un seasoned stuff. This has probably been pointed out already but I did not read all of the posts....:)
 
Kevin, I keep thinking about my warm, dry dirt-floor cellar, but with no outside entrance and steep stairs that are a little dicey when I'm not carrying a thing, I just don't see how. I look at those little dumbwaiter things some folks have that bring the wood right up to the living room and I drool with envy. Maybe in my next life! My house is also very dry. There was a pretty elaborate state forestry agency exhibit at the state fair last year on identifying wood species from cut rounds and splits that I glanced at and passed by, and wow, I sure wish I'd been smart enough to go study it. If it's there next year, I'll go and make a nuisance of myself.
 
I often need to re-split larger pieces and got myself a 4lb. wedge and a 4lb. sledge hammer. Tap the wedge into an existing crack until it's stuck then a few good whacks usually does it. Instead of trying to split the piece in half this way I'll work off several small splits from the edges in, that way I end up with a good medium size split and a handful of large kindling. Not an efficient way to do alot of splitting of course, but for a couple big honkers here and there and/or if I run short of kindling it works fine.
 
woodconvert said:
"Can you easily exceed the 400F if you wanted to?"

In a word, no, not with this wood. With lots of attention and very careful wood selection and timing, etc., I can eventually get it up near 400, but haven't been able to keep it there for terribly long. Some of that is surely my learning curve with this stove and shortage of pieces exactly the right size, though.

I may *carefully* try your drying technique on a few pieces. I was wondering whether it made any sense at all to do that. I work out of a home office in the next room, so it's not out of the question. It sure would help to be able to have at least a couple of well-dried pieces.

Tell me about your "warming shelf"?
 
Cearbhaill said:
Nothing like some manual splitting to build yourself back up ;-P Truly- I'm a lady well on the far side of 50 and light splitting like you mention isn't that difficult. Using a 6 lb. maul and further splitting already split splits should be well within your capability. Sure beats paying for a gym.

Heh! OK, well, maybe I'll give it a try. But I'm concerned about how safe that is for me to try to do. Without the muscle strength to begin with, it's impossible to control the tool well, especially after the first couple of whacks. Not to mention my hand-eye coordination really, really s***s.
 
Hard Woods said:
I don't know what your current financial situation is, but I would reccomend getting at least a cord of SEASONED wood to get the coal bed started and then throw on some of the un seasoned stuff. This has probably been pointed out already but I did not read all of the posts....:)

I'd gladly do that, but there ain't any to be had anywhere in the entire state right now, as far as I've been able to find out. It's been an unusually cold fall, and there was a monster stampede for wood when people got their first horrifying oil bills. There's something about getting a bill upwards of $600 for a tank fill that focuses the mind on the pleasures of woodstoves.
 
nyk0306 said:
I often need to re-split larger pieces and got myself a 4lb. wedge and a 4lb. sledge hammer. Tap the wedge into an existing crack until it's stuck then a few good whacks usually does it. Instead of trying to split the piece in half this way I'll work off several small splits from the edges in, that way I end up with a good medium size split and a handful of large kindling. Not an efficient way to do alot of splitting of course, but for a couple big honkers here and there and/or if I run short of kindling it works fine.

Sure sounds a lot safer than messing around with a maul or an axe I can't be sure I can control. Is that why you use the sledgehammer and wedge?
 
Well, the couple of times I tried the maul I couldn't hit the same spot twice and ended up exhausted with nothing but a dented and bludgeoned hunk of maple.
Also I had the wood in the basement where there's not alot of headroom to flail around a big scary stick of destruction.
The wedge and sledge works great for me---when you're middle-aged, tiny and half-blind sometimes the hard way is the safer and more convenient way.
 
I use a sledge & a wedge too.
My back, neck & shoulders are too crappy to swing an axe.
I split my pieces & dry them by the hearth if I need to too.
BTW-
Pallets are easy to break apart
 
"In a word, no, not with this wood. With lots of attention and very careful wood selection and timing, etc., I can eventually get it up near 400, but haven’t been able to keep it there for terribly long."

GAH!...now i'm back to don't fuss with the wood this year though i'm SHOCKED it's not hissing.

"I may *carefully* try your drying technique on a few pieces. I was wondering whether it made any sense at all to do that. I work out of a home office in the next room, so it’s not out of the question. It sure would help to be able to have at least a couple of well-dried pieces."

Good deal. That's ideal to have the office at home when you are a wood burner. Give it a try and vary the spacing between the wood and the stove to find what works best. Obviously if it's smoking it's too close but you will get a fragrant odor in doing this. It works for me and I hope it does for you too.

"Tell me about your “warming shelf”?"

My stove has two warming shelves on either side of the stove....kind of like side extensions of the top of the stove. It works good for rising a loaf of bread, keeping coffee warm...or cookin' wood!!. I did a quick search and I can't find a picture to describe it better. If I find one i'll post it.
 
woodconvert said:
"GAH!...now i'm back to don't fuss with the wood this year though i'm SHOCKED it's not hissing. .

I think stoves like mine don't run as hot as some, so 300-400 isn't quite as bad as "GAH!" :) The manual says burning at 600 or higher will damage the stove and void the warranty. Believe me, if I had a practical alternative, I would save even the better wood for next year, but it's really this or nothing for this winter.

I envy you the warming shelves. They sound great.
 
author="Cearbhaill" date="1198702702Nothing like some manual splitting to build yourself back up ;-P

Truly- I'm a lady well on the far side of 50 and light splitting like you mention isn't that difficult. Using a 6 lb. maul and further splitting already split splits should be well within your capability. Sure beats paying for a gym.

You go girl!

My Lady is (sssshhhh... don't anyone read this) 61 and 120#'s soaking wet! Sometimes I can't get the splitter out of her hands. She loves the exercise and often finds it a challenge to split up a 16" round.
 
"I think stoves like mine don’t run as hot as some, so 300-400 isn’t quite as bad as “GAH!” grin The manual says burning at 600 or higher will damage the stove and void the warranty. Believe me, if I had a practical alternative, I would save even the better wood for next year, but it’s really this or nothing for this winter."

My opinion is that you should be able to achieve 500F, probably easily, with dry wood. The fact that you cannot is a concern. Just for giggles do you have someone that can check your chimney out for creosote buildup???....maybe with a stainless liner you are fine but I would be very cautious.

"I envy you the warming shelves. They sound great."

They are functional so they serve a purpose. I like them.

Hey, i just had a thought...and maybe someone else has mentioned it but i've read guys in here burning "Bio-Bricks". I wouldn't know a bio-brick if it smacked me in the mellon but it sounds like an option until you get some dry wood.
 
Although nobody "officially" can recommend it due to fire risk, setting splits around your stove, positioned so that there is no way they can fall over and lean against the stove, is one way to "speed dry" your wood. If you don't have a laser thermometer, I highly recommend them ($30 from harbor freight), you can zap the splits every now and then to see how hot they are getting (should never be above 160).

Another thing you could do is find a construction site with a dumpster, and load up on discarded lumber, or find a free source of wood pallets and cut them up. Mix that in with your less than seasoned wood. This super dry wood will burn hot.
 
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