Here's the finished installation of Mom's wood stove

I



I am having trouble creating an album with the upload size too large so I just copied and pasted to this post.
The biggest problem I had was the hole in the roof. The top end of the hole ended up bigger than I was hoping for and I worried my flashing might not cover it but it did. The picture is my son and son-in-law.

Well, that didn't work. I had some pictures cut and pasted in that last post.

Until I figure out how to up load you could look at them on my Photo Bucket page link .
http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/bryansong/library/Wood Stove project

I'll keep trying.

begreen said:

I put a couple of them up for you. Posting pictures instructions are here:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/putting-images-into-your-forums-posts.87212/

Can't tell by the picture but is the upper edge of the flashing under the roofing shingle or on top of it? Is the flashing covered with metal tape?
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The upper edge is not under the roof shingle or flashing though it's not too far off the roof. I did have to cut the back of the cone since the roof was so steep to let the cone flashing lay down. I was (and am) a bit concerned that a hard pouring rain would run down the roof and push up the cone and in so I hope that never happens. I did not add any other flashing to the chimney cone or rain shield but I did add adhesive backed roll flashing all around the edge. We had to use a torch to heat it because it was too cold to be sticky. If any rain gets in I'll have to do something but not sure what just yet.
It has rained here a couple of times since the install and so far it's been ok.

begreen said:

I put a couple of them up for you. Posting pictures instructions are here:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/putting-images-into-your-forums-posts.87212/

Can't tell by the picture but is the upper edge of the flashing under the roofing shingle or on top of it? Is the flashing covered with metal tape?
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Hey thanks, that looks Great! And thanks for the instructions too.

Bryan

tcassavaugh said:

that worked.....at least the link did. nice work on the chimney and the install.

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Thank you.

begreen said:

The upper edge of the flashing must be under the shingles. That is what stops water from running under it. It looks like you may have bought the wrong flashing. They come in different cone angles based on the roof pitch. I would consider replacing the flashing, maybe in spring when the shingles warm up a bit. The rest looks nice. Is the stove sitting on a tile floor?

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I'm sorry, I misunderstood. The top of cone flashing is under the shingles, there is also roll flashing over the shingle above that. That cone was part of the chimney kit from Northern tool and it only came with that cone.
Good idea about looking at it again in the Spring time. I would like to have the right cone on there.

Simonkenton said:

bryansong: What relationship do you have with a football player who played for the Bears and who died young of cancer?

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No relationship.

Poindexter said:

I agree with begreen it looks like the wrong cone angle where the pipe comes through the roof, but otherwise that looks like a top shelf ship shape install.

On the one hand if it ain't broke don't fix it... how many years - about- do you think before the roof needs new shingles anyway?

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That's a good question, I didn't really give it a good look except for the part we were working on and that didn't look too bad. I probably should measure that roof's pitch and work on changing out that cone next year, I just hope it holds up for now. The weather in our area has been mild until today and now we're in a Winter Storm Watch with sleet and freezing rain.

Bryan

I think my pictures and explanation as to what I did makes it hard to really see just what I did so I'll try be more accurate.
I did buy a DuraPlus chimney kit and pipe from Northern Tools, there is a store near me. I might have jumped the gun a little with that purchase but that is the only option Northern Tool carries, looking back I would have rather gone with DuraTech since it is a smaller diameter. This was pointed out by begreen. I know that really doesn't matter as both will work.
On the roof after cutting out the hole I lifted the shingles above the hole but was unable to get the nails up but the shingle was pulled free of the nails so I could slip my cone flashing all the way up under the shingles. I know it would have been better If I could have got the nails our without ripping through the shingles but is was a pretty cool day and the shingles weren't very flexible. When installing the flashing under the shingles I made sure to apply a large amount of silicone glue under the shingle and the flashing.
I was having trouble with the steep pitch of the roof and getting the cone flashing to lay down at the bottom so I ended up snipping a curve arc section of the upper side of the cone where it meets the flue and then the whole cone flashing laid down pretty much as one might expect. I know this isn't ideal but I figured that this was some universal cone piece and there was no other way for it to lay down, and maybe this might be an approach an installer would take. I did already have a hole in the roof and it was starting to get dark so some how I was going to seal this hole.

begreen, I was trying to not put any nails in the lower section of the flashing but I had to, the silicone just wasn't holding down so after putting nail in I silicone over the nails. I hated this but it had to be done. That night when I got home I order the adhesive backed silver flashing, I really was unhappy with the way that cone laid and wanted to make sure I had good flashing around it. The application of that flashing was a bit of a bear in as it was too cool for the adhesive to be tacky. We used a propane torch to warm it up and worked the flashing down with a was of shop towels. That all seemed to work.

Lastly and an issue I am still dealing with is the High Temperature caulk I bought a Lowes and applied around the rain shield, I'm now sure that that isn't for use in the elements and I think it's leaking a bit and running down the flue, at least I hope that is where the leak is. I am addressing that first.
This morning I ordered the right stuff from Northline Express and sometime later this week I'll get up on the roof and remove that ring, clean it and re-install using the correct High Temp caulk.

I'm sorry this is such a wordy post but if you've read this far I thank you.
One more thing I just remembered, when I get back up on the roof I am going to take an angle finder to read the angle of the roof so I can figure out the pitch. I'd like to order the correct cone to install and hopefully I won't have to do that until next Spring.

Bryan

begreen said:

rwhite is correct. There is no need for silicone on the upper edge. His description of the potential problems is right on. Likewise, no sililcone goes on the lower edge. You want any trapped moisture to be able to drain freely out the bottom.
Bryan, the main issue you may be having is the wrong angle cone on the flashing. We can't see how it was cut or how it is fitting to the pipe, but that sounds like what you are fighting with. FWIW, I have always used GE Silicone II for the storm collar. Never had a failure, but admittedly they have been installed in warmer weather. I have pulled it off years later and marveled at how well the stuff adheres.

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That cone may be the issue, it sure is a weak point in my installation. For now as you know I'm hoping it's the storm collar. I wish I had that GE Silicone II in the first place. There is ice and snow on the roof now and tomorrow the city permit inspector is coming, I'm guessing he won't be up on the roof.
Saturday's forecast is for 35° so the snow should melt but I bet if the permit guy approves the install that stove will get a fire and the area of the roof where the flue is should be drier.

I don't mean to sound like a broken record here but I just want you guys to know how much I appreciate your help. I have learned quite a lot.
Thanks!

Bryan