Buying a used pickup truck

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Tom Wallace

Burning Hunk
Jan 20, 2013
204
Shoreline, WA
I'm interested in a mid-late 90s truck. I'd use it for scrounging wood as well as some light duty hauling to help out my mom. My budget is $3-4000. Initially I was looking at Ford F150s, but I've read a lot about spark plugs getting stuck and breaking off in the cylinder when changing them. For that reason, I'm looking mostly at Chevrolet/GMC now. Nothing against Dodge, but I just don't like the look of their trucks.

Personally I'd prefer normal cab and full size bed but those seem hard to find. Most used trucks I'm finding have an extended cab and short bed. I know next to nothing about trucks and have never driven a 4x4 in my life. I can drive a stick, though.

Any advice on what to look out for?

Here are two trucks I like:

1998 Chevy Silverado Z71 $4000 178k miles
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5340590063.html

1997 GMC 2500 $3500 173k miles
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5340846297.html

Both are extended cab. The GMC says it's a short bed, the Silverado doesn't say but it looks short to me. I'm leaning toward the GMC because the ad mentions several parts have recently been replaced (including water pump which I know can be pricey to replace) and the price is a bit lower.
 
Don't rule out the Fords just yet. The spark plug issue was with the 5.4 block. The 4.6 is a great engine for a half ton pickup, esp with 3:73 rearend. I had a 99 f150 with that exact setup and loved it, wished I still had it.

Be sure to test the 4x4 thoroughly when test driving. Lots of people buy them and never use them (like whirlpool tubs). Electric solenoids will sieze up if not used periodically.

Good luck with the search.
 
The GMC will have stronger springs to haul bigger loads, being it's a 3/4 ton. And it's had the fuel pump replaced, that was a pretty big issue with the late 90 thru early 2000 chevy pick-ups. It's a pita because it's inside the fuel tank.

One thing I would look for on either of those trucks is test drive it long enough to get the tranny oil warm and see how it shifts. A few of the late 90's chevy's I've been around had tranny problems when the oil got warm. Watch out for real sluggish shifts, like something is slipping. Also watch out for real hard "clunky" shifts.
 
Don't rule out the Fords just yet. The spark plug issue was with the 5.4 block. The 4.6 is a great engine for a half ton pickup, esp with 3:73 rearend. I had a 99 f150 with that exact setup and loved it, wished I still had it.

Be sure to test the 4x4 thoroughly when test driving. Lots of people buy them and never use them (like whirlpool tubs). Electric solenoids will sieze up if not used periodically.

Good luck with the search.

Thanks, I'll add F150s to the search but rule out the 5.4 liter engine.
 
The GMC will have stronger springs to haul bigger loads, being it's a 3/4 ton. And it's had the fuel pump replaced, that was a pretty big issue with the late 90 thru early 2000 chevy pick-ups. It's a pita because it's inside the fuel tank.

One thing I would look for on either of those trucks is test drive it long enough to get the tranny oil warm and see how it shifts. A few of the late 90's chevy's I've been around had tranny problems when the oil got warm. Watch out for real sluggish shifts, like something is slipping. Also watch out for real hard "clunky" shifts.

Thanks for the tips. I didn't realize it had that ridiculous fuel pump setup. My mother's 1995 Buick Regal had to have the fuel pump replaced recently, and it, too, has the pump inside the gas tank. My brother ended up replacing it for her, but the fuel gauge hasn't worked ever since.
 
If you want a regular cab and 8 ft bed, then that is what you should hold out for. They will have a shorter turning radius. There is an old saying, " buy in haste, repent in leisure" I would also think about older models than your range. Below is a picture of my 77 Dodge after years of throwing wood into it. It has dents, dings, and rust, but the power train is fine, and it gets the job done.
100_1411.JPG
 
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The 5.4 ford was fine until the 2004 3 valve models. I would not touch a ford after 2004. Btw, pretty much anything you're gonna find that is fuel injected will have an in-tank fuel pump. The dodges where great when they had the 5.2 and 5.9 engines.
 
Update: found an older F250 with only 71k miles. Extended cab and 8ft bed. Going to check it out this weekend.
 
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Update: found an older F250 with only 71k miles. Extended cab and 8ft bed. Going to check it out this weekend.
Check the frame for rot
 
Any particular reason? By mid-08 they had the spark plug issue under control

I don't believe that's accurate. I'm routinely extracting the broken spark plugs from our fleet of Fords at work, some of which I'm pretty sure are newer than 08. Ford went from a head design that uses too few threads for the plugs (blown out plugs), and followed it up with the wonderful design where the tip gets stuck in the combustion chamber due to carbon buildup. They aren't bad engines, just poor spark plug designs.
 
I'm just going by what I read on the Ford truck forum I hang out on occasionally. I read it was the 2 piece plug design that was crap and the newer 1 piece solved the issue. I can see your point with the carbon issue though. Love my F150!
 
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I'm just going by what I read on the Ford truck forum I hang out on occasionally. I read it was the 2 piece plug design that was crap and the newer 1 piece solved the issue. I can see your point with the carbon issue though. Love my F150!

Im not 100% on the year of our trucks, so you could be right about the year. The nice part is that the tool to remove the broken tip actually works very well. You'd think it would be a very big problem, but it's quite the opposite. Now the earlier Fords with the blown out plugs... That's a big problem.
 
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I hear ya. My 2010 5.4 4x4 SCrew only has 41k on it since I have a company truck. That is also a 2010 F150 SCrew 4x4 with 169k on it. The 08 I just turned in when I got the '10 had 235k. Can't speak to plug changes on either of these. We bought 20 new trucks for the PA division, 10 each F150 and Silverado 1500. Curious to see how the Chevy holds up we have always used Fords and probably have a few hundred pickups in the fleet
 
Generally on the gm trucks, if you hear a loud whining sound towards the gas tank while running, the fuel is getting weak. Also the fuel sending units for gas gauge are very problematic. Its not that hard to change a fuel pump. I have always takin the bed loose and set it on the tire and bumper. That gives you enough room to work. The worse part is getting the fuel lines disconnected and the ring off that hold the pump down
 
Any particular reason? By mid-08 they had the spark plug issue under control
I am a master tech in a high volume private shop, I can't speak much about any of the newer batch of ford engines because we are just starting to see them (5.0, 6.2, etc) but the three valve triton engines from 04 to whenever they switched to the coyote motors are absolute crap. From cam phaser and timing chain issues to broken plugs the list goes on. Oh and don't forget about the lovely rotted exhaust manifolds with pre-broken studs....... On the older trucks I could simply pull the inner fenders and go to it, on the 04+ trucks the strut tower is in the way so if you have to do any extracting at all the motor has to come out. I'm a Ford guy three generations deep but they really missed the boat with that batch of trucks. Oh, and run far far away from any of the newer diesels unless you have really deep pockets. The only motor worth a chit is the Cummins but dodge puts a crap tranny behind it, the Chevy duramaxs that I've dealt with have glow plugs that go bad and break in the head, high pressure pumps that literally fall apart and leak and crap transfer cases. The ford 7.3 is a great motor but oil pans and oil coolers rot out and again the trannies are weak if pushed. the 6.0 is a raging pile of crap from head gaskets to injectors to egr cooler to turbo problems, the list goes on with those. Back to rotted oil pans on the 6.4 plus Pistons cracking and don't know much about the 6.7........ Phew, sorry for being long winded.
 
Well I must agree that you have some credibility to back up your statement haha! Thanks for the reply, I do know we got away from the 250-up 6.7 diesel with the Bosch pumps coming apart and wiping out the top ends, and we have mostly 150s now. I am well aware of the 6.0 diesel problems, I had an 04 King Ranch that cost me ~$8k in repairs in 1 year, that's when I got the 150. That was a shame, I loved that truck just hated the motor. I guess I have to keep my fingers crossed on the current truck until I trade it in a few years- got kids facing college so I have to hang on to it. Sorry to the OP for the derail but you have some good info here
 
I am a master tech in a high volume private shop, I can't speak much about any of the newer batch of ford engines because we are just starting to see them (5.0, 6.2, etc) but the three valve triton engines from 04 to whenever they switched to the coyote motors are absolute crap. From cam phaser and timing chain issues to broken plugs the list goes on. Oh and don't forget about the lovely rotted exhaust manifolds with pre-broken studs....... On the older trucks I could simply pull the inner fenders and go to it, on the 04+ trucks the strut tower is in the way so if you have to do any extracting at all the motor has to come out. I'm a Ford guy three generations deep but they really missed the boat with that batch of trucks. Oh, and run far far away from any of the newer diesels unless you have really deep pockets. The only motor worth a chit is the Cummins but dodge puts a crap tranny behind it, the Chevy duramaxs that I've dealt with have glow plugs that go bad and break in the head, high pressure pumps that literally fall apart and leak and crap transfer cases. The ford 7.3 is a great motor but oil pans and oil coolers rot out and again the trannies are weak if pushed. the 6.0 is a raging pile of crap from head gaskets to injectors to egr cooler to turbo problems, the list goes on with those. Back to rotted oil pans on the 6.4 plus Pistons cracking and don't know much about the 6.7........ Phew, sorry for being long winded.


Boy does that sound like me before leaving the trade some years ago
Working as a mechanic you only see the worst of the worst and begin
to hate all vehicles . All trucks (light ones ) are very much the same
as long as you do the necessary repairs they will last a long time
 
Here's the F250 I'm planning to check out tomorrow: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5382572831.html

It looks like it's in excellent condition minus the cosmetic dent on right side of bed. New paint, tires, filters, hoses, distributor cap, plugs and wires, thermostat and water pump. Combined with only 71k miles this looks like a good deal. With a 7.5L engine, it's got more power than I'll need, but better to have too much than not enough, right? I won't be putting a lot of miles on it, so the gas mileage won't be a big deal. I'm sure a 7.5 will suck down the gas pretty fast.

Only minor issue I have with it is that it doesn't look like it has a bed liner. Since I'll be tossing firewood into it, I'd feel bad scratching up that new paint. I know I can just add a bed liner to it, though I'm not sure how much they cost, which kind to get, where to get them, etc.

I don't know what the Lariat package entails in 1990. I've read that in new trucks the Lariat is somewhat of a luxury package. I don't know if that applies to a 1990 model.

Any problems a 1990 F250 is known to have?
 
I bought a reg cab brand new in 91, 4x4 302 5 speed. Traded it in 98 for F150 Super Cab when we were expecting our first child. It was a good truck, that looks like it's in decent shape
 
I got 250K+ plus mile on a 96 f250 powerstroke.. most mechanically dependable truck i have ever owned - still fires right up but mother nature is reclaiming as rust - if you can a mid 90's F350 powerstroke - it will be one rough riding dependable son of a groan that will haul wood no problem - ifit has a zf 5 spd it doesnt get much better (if its an auto make sure it shifts right)

actually any 90's ford with e40d auto make sure it shifts nice and smooth once warm - expensive rebuild - lots of updates done over the years - later 90's one are better than early 90's units
 
Here's the F250 I'm planning to check out tomorrow: http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5382572831.html

It looks like it's in excellent condition minus the cosmetic dent on right side of bed. New paint, tires, filters, hoses, distributor cap, plugs and wires, thermostat and water pump. Combined with only 71k miles this looks like a good deal. With a 7.5L engine, it's got more power than I'll need, but better to have too much than not enough, right? I won't be putting a lot of miles on it, so the gas mileage won't be a big deal. I'm sure a 7.5 will suck down the gas pretty fast.

Only minor issue I have with it is that it doesn't look like it has a bed liner. Since I'll be tossing firewood into it, I'd feel bad scratching up that new paint. I know I can just add a bed liner to it, though I'm not sure how much they cost, which kind to get, where to get them, etc.

I don't know what the Lariat package entails in 1990. I've read that in new trucks the Lariat is somewhat of a luxury package. I don't know if that applies to a 1990 model.

Any problems a 1990 F250 is known to have?
Looks pretty good. The listing says it has a bed liner. A bed liner shouldn't be a deal breaker anyway. I put a bed mat in my previous truck and really liked it. It was cheap protection for the bed and didn't let things slide around.
 
Looks pretty good. The listing says it has a bed liner. A bed liner shouldn't be a deal breaker anyway. I put a bed mat in my previous truck and really liked it. It was cheap protection for the bed and didn't let things slide around.

Thanks, I missed the liner in the listing. I also talked to the seller and he mentioned it has a plastic liner. I asked why so many parts were replaced in the last 1000 miles, thinking maybe there was an issue with overheating. I was especially concerned that the water pump, thermostat, hoses and fan clutch were replaced as those are all related to cooling the engine. But he told me that the original water pump was failing a few months ago (leaking from the weep hole). So he replaced it, and figured it's a good idea to replace the hoses, fan clutch and thermostat at the same time. So, that sounds like a good explanation to me. The rest of the replaced parts are just general maintenance.
 
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