Avalon Rainier Draft Problem (Video)

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I am pretty sure that thing on the ceiling was done by whoever installed the pellet stove for the previous homeowners. If that thing has to be reinstalled I guess it is better than having a stove just sitting there doing nothing. However, before we have to have that expensive work done I just want to have as much info as possible.

Along with the video of the cap I will try to get even more angles of that thing on video.

I have to admit tho. It looks like crap. Like it was done not by a professional.
i would think that checking out the connection to the chimney would cost nothing. its just a matter of removing the screws on the stove pipe and disconnecting the stove pipe from the "box" in the ceiling. should be pretty painless if the installation was close to being right the first time. also, it lets you take a flash light and look up the chimney for obstruction. if you can't see a light at the end of the tunnel, so to speak, the cap is probably clogged. just a suggestion for an inexpensive course of action for now.
 
I am pretty sure that thing on the ceiling was done by whoever installed the pellet stove for the previous homeowners. If that thing has to be reinstalled I guess it is better than having a stove just sitting there doing nothing. However, before we have to have that expensive work done I just want to have as much info as possible.

Along with the video of the cap I will try to get even more angles of that thing on video.

I have to admit tho. It looks like crap. Like it was done not by a professional.
i would think that checking out the connection to the chimney would cost nothing. its just a matter of removing the screws on the stove pipe and disconnecting the stove pipe from the "box" in the ceiling. should be pretty painless if the installation was close to being right the first time. also, it lets you take a flash light and look up the chimney for obstruction. if you can't see a light at the end of the tunnel, so to speak, the cap is probably clogged. just a suggestion for an inexpensive course of action for now.
 
I would say that you have a clogged cap or build up in the pipes, like tcassavaugh suggested that a good flashlight and look at the inside of those pipes. and inspect that cap. hope you figure it out good luck
 
if you have a slip connector https://www.northlineexpress.com/10-durablack-slip-connector-2070-2070-5791.html, similar to this, you should be able to slide the stove pipe up over the slip pipe so you can easily disconnect. if not, it may have just been cut to size and probably doesn't have a lot of forgiveness in the connection. back on looking up the chimney if you get it apart.....do it during the daytime.....look up first without the flash light and see if you can see up to the cap. you should see daylight if you're unobstructed. if you cant, your sweep may not have done his job correctly and you're clogged.
 
Notes:

* Has a single control and it is fully open.
* Burning well seasoned wood that is under 18%
* Was swept from the bottom less than a month ago. Sweep said he saw no issues but he did not climb up and inspect the cap from the top.[/QUOTE]


Given that the air intake is wide open, but the stove acts like its damped down, it seems like something is wrong internally in the stove or the pipe is restricted. That video of the smoke looks like my new stove when I pack it full with new wood as it catches. But I know you have already guessed that. I hope a brand specific expert pops in with a solution.
 
I took some photos of the pipe. Sorry that I had to use a flashlight to provide light for the images.

http://imgur.com/a/GQMK0

So it looks like these small nuts hold the sections of the pipe together? I am not mechanically inclined but does that not mean there is a washer that will fall down the pipe once I try to remove those?
 
I have no idea if pellet flue is compatible but I have never seen 6" flue for a pellet stove which is what you need for the rainier. I would check the inside diameter of the flue. If your running 3 or 4" flue that may be the problem. Wondering if this is double wall pellet that just happened to fit perfect in a 6" wood stove?
 
I have no idea if pellet flue is compatible but I have never seen 6" flue for a pellet stove which is what you need for the rainier. I would check the inside diameter of the flue. If your running 3 or 4" flue that may be the problem. Wondering if this is double wall pellet that just happened to fit perfect in a 6" wood stove?

Well that flue is definitely not just 3 or 4 there is no way the installer would not have noticed that and raised hell. And besides if it were that thin. It would not matter what the outside temp is right?

We were told the previous owners were running a pellet stove. That could have been incorrect or the original install was for a wood stove that got replaced. But there is no way that flue is that thin.

Edit: I will post images of the inside if I can get this thing disconnected. Just need to know how. Those are nuts not screws in the images I posted above.
 
Well that flue is definitely not just 3 or 4 there is no way the installer would not have noticed that and raised hell. And besides if it were that thin. It would not matter what the outside temp is right?

We were told the previous owners were running a pellet stove. That could have been incorrect or the original install was for a wood stove that got replaced. But there is no way that flue is that thin.

Edit: I will post images of the inside if I can get this thing disconnected. Just need to know how. Those are nuts not screws in the images I posted above.
Probably just remove the baffle and take a shot from the inside of stove up
 
I took some photos of the pipe. Sorry that I had to use a flashlight to provide light for the images.

http://imgur.com/a/GQMK0

So it looks like these small nuts hold the sections of the pipe together? I am not mechanically inclined but does that not mean there is a washer that will fall down the pipe once I try to remove those?
the screws are probably self tapping screws that hold the pipe together. there are no nuts or washers on the back side. from the look of the photos, that first connect looks like it might be a slip pipe....i don't see a flange on the connecting pipe that would indicate that it is crimped. if it is, that is where the slide would be to allow you to pull the pipe up from the stove and then disconnect from the box above. still not sure about the top connect in the box, hard to make an assessment.
 
Probably just remove the baffle and take a shot from the inside of stove up

Did I mention I am not very mechanically inclined? :) That is not exactly easy for me to do when I have little idea how the thing fits together. I will study the pdf and see but the parents are not going to allow me to start pulling stuff out of their stove unless I am sure about what I am doing.

the screws are probably self tapping screws that hold the pipe together. there are no nuts or washers on the back side. from the look of the photos, that first connect looks like it might be a slip pipe....i don't see a flange on the connecting pipe that would indicate that it is crimped. if it is, that is where the slide would be to allow you to pull the pipe up from the stove and then disconnect from the box above. still not sure about the top connect in the box, hard to make an assessment.

Still not understanding what you are saying. First connect? You mean from the stove or that thing on the ceiling? Can you please give me step by step instructions as simply as you can?
 
Did I mention I am not very mechanically inclined? :) That is not exactly easy for me to do when I have little idea how the thing fits together. I will study the pdf and see but the parents are not going to allow me to start pulling stuff out of their stove unless I am sure about what I am doing.



Still not understanding what you are saying. First connect? You mean from the stove or that thing on the ceiling? Can you please give me step by step instructions as simply as you can?
lol....sorry, from the stove to the first pipe connection. it didn't look like there was a "bump" where the two pipes meet. the bump keeps the pipe from riding up on to the next pipe for installation. a piece of stove pipe that has the lower end with no bump is normally the "slip" pipe or the one that is used to adjust the stovepipe length without having to cut the pipe to an exact length. you put the end of the stove pipe over the slip pipe and slide it up, attach another pipe if necessary then pull it back down to direct connect to the stove. my slip pipe connects to the box thimble allowing you to slide and adjust the pipe for easy removal and reconnection.
 
here is a link for the pipe instal...removal would be just in reverse. the slip pipe is a little different, but its the same principal
 
Is there an outside air kit installed? I wonder if it could be freezing over.
 
His uses screws it seems. Mine uses these nut looking things. Nothing for a screwdriver to engage to. And does this mean I have to disconnect the pipe towards the top? Still not understand this at all.

On a side note I now have video of the cap.

 
Cap seems fine, but there could be a clog in the flue.
 
The problem with the temps makes me thinking something has to be freezing to cause the issue. Nothing else makes sense to me.
 
tcassavaugh, Here is an image album showing what I am talking about. These are not screws they are nuts unless I completely fail at telling the difference

http://imgur.com/a/CKW0x

The last image. Is that where you want me to disconnect this thing?

The problem with the temps makes me thinking something has to be freezing to cause the issue. Nothing else makes sense to me.

I can understand something freezing causing issues at the very start of the burn. But hours later? There is no outside air coming into the stove except from the house. And even when it is above freezing I would not say the fire burns great. There is still smoke going into the house during loading. It just gets much worse when it drops below freezing.
 
You're not going to be able to see much just looking at the outside. It needs to be taken apart, inspected and cleaned. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, then call a sweep. It doesn't look bad from the outside, but that means nothing.
 
They are screws with a nut head. Here's a photo of one.

fcf134f48e52bcd1c022bc2b2a8cbaa7.jpg
 
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tcassavaugh, Here is an image album showing what I am talking about. These are not screws they are nuts unless I completely fail at telling the difference

Those are screws, likely self tapping. Need a 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver or socket to remove them.
 
Wrench is fine. I usually use a 1/4 in socket.
 
You need to pull the pipe that cap could be clogged they usually have a relativity small screen in them. Of something in the flue. Those certainly look like 1/4" hex head self tapping screws to me in the pipe and it looks like a telescoping section to pull those screws and the pipe should come apart
 
Oh I see. Can I remove it with an adjustable wrench? Or does it require something else?
Adjustable wrench will work but if you have one of those screw drivers that the bit pulls out of and is reversible you can just pull the bit out and use that. One side or the other will fit the head.
upload_2016-1-2_10-27-31.jpeg
 
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