Another upper auger issue...PDVC-25 2006

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

[email protected].

New Member
Jan 27, 2014
9
Hi All -

Now that it's a Friday night at 5:30 when Englander Stove is closed I'm turning to you all - my next best resources! Two weeks ago I replaced my lower auger motor after it stopped turning. Immediately after that my top auger stopped turning, resulting in E2. I went through the steps:
1.) Cleaned out the area behind the baffle, the pot, and the exhaust pipe.
2.) Cleaned out both auger tubes, checked auger collar placements, checked alignments of augers in tubes.
3.) Checked both vacuum hoses
4.) Cleaned out the small intake hole
5.) Unplugged wires from the vacuum switch beside the exhaust blower
6.) Did the dollar bill door seal test
7.) Replaced the upper auger motor.

The top auger turns between 7-12 times before it stops. When I look at the auger motor in the back it sounds and looks like it's trying to turn, but isn't. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Liz
 
Is this the first time you had to replace the augers? If it is, you're ahead of the game. 9 or 10 years is a long time for augers. Hook it up to 120V direct; does it turn? Maybe open the housing and take a look.
 
Is this the first time you had to replace the augers? If it is, you're ahead of the game. 9 or 10 years is a long time for augers. Hook it up to 120V direct; does it turn? Maybe open the housing and take a look.[/QUOTE

This is the second time I've replaced both augers, sadly. I'm not sure how to hook them up to 120v direct...should I switch wires and see if I can get the top auger to spin continously?
 
Switching is a good idea, and easier. My stove is one year older and I've already replaced 5 augers. Its the nature of the beast.
 
Switching is a good idea, and easier. My stove is one year older and I've already replaced 5 augers. Its the nature of the beast.
I just switched the wires and the top auger isn't moving. This means I just bought a faulty new auger motor, or is there another explanation?
Thanks!
 
As I understand from reading here about your stove, I don't own one, the bottom augar runs all the time and the top one every now and then. Switching only the wires isn't going to tell you a thing because the top agar isn't designed to run all the time like the bottom one. You need to actually swap out, as in change the bottom augar to the top and the top augar to the bottom. Switching JUST the wires isn't going to do it. Maybe time to do a few searches here on your stove model and learn how to swap the augars and also lube them while doing so. You made me laugh thinking that just switching the wires would tell you what you were looking for. Good luck and report back your findings. It might be your not up to the task of switching the augar out and in that case you will need to find a stove tech to do it for you. Happy New Year.
 
As I understand from reading here about your stove, I don't own one, the bottom augar runs all the time and the top one every now and then. Switching only the wires isn't going to tell you a thing because the top agar isn't designed to run all the time like the bottom one. You need to actually swap out, as in change the bottom augar to the top and the top augar to the bottom. Switching JUST the wires isn't going to do it. Maybe time to do a few searches here on your stove model and learn how to swap the augars and also lube them while doing so. You made me laugh thinking that just switching the wires would tell you what you were looking for. Good luck and report back your findings. It might be your not up to the task of switching the augar out and in that case you will need to find a stove tech to do it for you. Happy New Year.
I read about switching the wires in another post in order to check the circuit board. I have already switched out the auger motors and this didn't work. Looking for someone else's idea now.

UPDATE:
I found that there was a clog/plug of burned pellets in the hole between the upper and lower auger shafts. There must have been a backfire at some point? Using solvent and rags I softened the burned, crusted pellets and then hosed them out. Now the pellets are dropping into the lower auger area without any issue and stove is humming. So happy, because the high tomorrow will be 19!
 
Last edited:
You made me laugh thinking that just switching the wires would tell you what you were looking for. It might be your not up to the task of switching the augar out and in that case you will need to find a stove tech to do it for you. Happy New Year.

Im curious what made you laugh??

Providing the hopper is empty. Simply Connecting the lower auger wires to the upper auger and hitting the on button and letting it cycle until it gives a no fire code will determine wether or not the auger motor is bad or not. If its good it will run constant until the cycle is over.. if it is bad it wont spin..
 
I do believe I stated I don't own one of these stoves and since I don't I found it amusing that the thought of just changing the wires would do anything worthwhile. Made me laugh when I've read here that the actual augers and motors need to be changed over. If changing the wires and running a cycle, even though the stove won't continue to run, fixes something it's a new one on me. Don't take offense as none was meant.
 
I do believe I stated I don't own one of these stoves and since I don't I found it amusing that the thought of just changing the wires would do anything worthwhile. Made me laugh when I've read here that the actual augers and motors need to be changed over. If changing the wires and running a cycle, even though the stove won't continue to run, fixes something it's a new one on me. Don't take offense as none was meant.

Wasnt offending to me but laughing at someone for trying to "diagnose" a problem is somewhat offending. There is a big diff between fixing and diagnosing. She simply needed to figure out if the NEW motor was a dud or not. And if the motor continued to run during that 20 minute+- cycle then it would be determined to be good.
 
Lighten up dude. I can and will laugh at whatever I want to. If it offended you because I found something funny that I'm not going to get into here then so be it. It wasn't meant the way you aparently took it. Maybe she, if it is a she should inquire from Mike Holton, and Englander, on what to do and not to do to fix her stove problem.
 
Lighten up dude. I can and will laugh at whatever I want to. If it offended you because I found something funny that I'm not going to get into here then so be it. It wasn't meant the way you aparently took it. Maybe she, if it is a she should inquire from Mike Holton, and Englander, on what to do and not to do to fix her stove problem.

So what are these forums for?
You already gave your opinion in your first post telling her to hire someone to fix it.
If you had actually read her post you would have seen her name at the bottom.
your solution seems to be just hire somebody and critisize them for trying to get their problem fixed with the help of others here on the forum. Seems like you have posted your fair share of questions and looking for advice here.. so why didnt you just call a pro? Hope you dont take offense to anything. Have a wonderful new year
 
Hi All -

Now that it's a Friday night at 5:30 when Englander Stove is closed I'm turning to you all - my next best resources! Two weeks ago I replaced my lower auger motor after it stopped turning. Immediately after that my top auger stopped turning, resulting in E2. I went through the steps:
1.) Cleaned out the area behind the baffle, the pot, and the exhaust pipe.
2.) Cleaned out both auger tubes, checked auger collar placements, checked alignments of augers in tubes.
3.) Checked both vacuum hoses
4.) Cleaned out the small intake hole
5.) Unplugged wires from the vacuum switch beside the exhaust blower
6.) Did the dollar bill door seal test
7.) Replaced the upper auger motor.

The top auger turns between 7-12 times before it stops. When I look at the auger motor in the back it sounds and looks like it's trying to turn, but isn't. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Liz

Liz,
I have had a few upper auger issues too.
Here is what I have found and done to address problem:
1. A number of times the stove shut down due to upper auger not running. (But motor was hot)
Tried turning motor/auger from the back by holding the motor. (Power off of course)
Found that the auger was jammed by fines(saw dust) Put vacuum cleaner hose in hopper right next to auger.
Put a rag around end of hose to create a seal which forces more vacuum to the front of the auger.
With rag in place I worked the motor/auger back and forth until it was free.

2. Testing auger motors:
I made a "cheater' cord to test the motors. (see attached pictures)
Disconnect the wires between motor and stove then hook up "cheater" cord to the motor.
Plug into outlet. Motor/auger should run until you unplug it. Testing this way you do not have
to question whether or not the control board is sending power to motor.
20160103_084358_resized.jpg
20160103_084425_resized.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Cedarjunki
I dont like telling people i dont know to use a "cheater" it is easier and gives better determination but also more dangerous in the wrong hands. But yes its my prefered method
 
I dont like telling people i dont know to use a "cheater" it is easier and gives better determination but also more dangerous in the wrong hands. But yes its my prefered method
Agree!
For most people a phone call to have a qualified technician work on the stove would be a wiser/safer call.
Thanks for reminder!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.