Picked up a splitter slow cycle issue

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rippinryno

Feeling the Heat
Nov 23, 2015
261
united states
Got an older splitter for cheap that I'm hoping to get working. The I beam is slightly bent but it functions fine. Motor runs but the hydro is very slow. It seems to split fine just needs to be faster. Any ideas what I should do? 6488ffd284b05ca34f9d935a515821d4.jpg403bf201e14e8e1ccc748c1941f19db5.jpgd5f48cdc52999bcb0d09b625cf28e652.jpg06fd642b9f7860b31289c38d2993ab98.jpgc921cd5affb61cbf69f48ac4c3763e51.jpg9badfea10a6d701f8b010000edb0cb1f.jpg
 
Depends on engine hp and cylinder size, could go go with a bigger gpm pump. Have to figure engine hp and what gpm pump is on it now
 
There is usually a pressure relief on the control valve. There is also a adjustment on the pump. That is the adjustment for when the pump kicks into second stage. Need to know if it is slow all the time or when splitting because increasing hydraulic pressure really wont make it any faster. More hydraulic flow or smaller cylinder is where speed will come from. Would probably be a good idea to change hydraulic oil and filter as well.
 
It looks to me like the relief adjustment on the valve is a fixed type. Check the pressure setting with a gauge to see where it is at, you may have a pump going bad also but without actual pressure checks we are just guessing.
 
It is slow all the time. It has fresh oil and a clean filter.....wondering if pump may be going back? It gets noisy at the cranks shaft coupler. What should adjust based on these photos? I have no clue what does what414ec4102b2924d041b4c4d86043d429.jpg4645fd815336805150b3004d4927fe59.jpg
 
First we have to know what slow is, 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 20 seconds, for a full cycle and the length of stroke. Are you running at full throttle? Check the pump to engine coupler to see if it is slipping. I have never seen the device that is just before the valve inlet, could it cause a restriction in flow.
The pressure relief should be under the cap at the back of the valve that has the wire seal. A gauge should be installed be fore changing relief settings.
 
Ok thanks slow mean like a whole minute for a complete cycle....crawling. Yes it's full throttle. I will look more at the coupler it does seem noisy.
 
Check "you tube" there is a vidio there that may help.

bob
 
Again, BEFORE messing with the pressure relief valve find out what you have for pressure!.
There are other factors that could come into play here. As mentioned the coupler could be bad, the valve may not be throwing all the way, The cylinder could be bypassing. Without KNOWING for sure you are just throwing darts at a target blindfolded.
You bought it used, so I would guess there was a problem that prompted the former owner to sell it. The direction of the bend of the beam could be a clue also.
Greg
 
The silver thing in the inlet of the valve is a screen/filter. Take it apart and check it.
 
I'll pull that filter apart. Thanks guys. Another thing to note is that I can see air going through the lines when running is that normal or would that indicate a problem?
 
I'll pull that filter apart. Thanks guys. Another thing to note is that I can see air going through the lines when running is that normal or would that indicate a problem?

That is a problem. There shouldn't be any air in the system.
 
Ok So I'm sucking in air somewhere. Oil is completely full looks clean and seems to move but there is air. I'm gonna drain it and pull it all apart with new fittings.
 
Try taking better pictures in the daylight. It's hard to tell what is bent with that picture.
 
Air in the system is often a leak in the suction side of system or sealing problem in the pump. Is the hyd. oil full?
 
Oil is full would you guys recommend just checking all the fittings to see where it might be sucking in at? Also hers a picture circling the I beam. The lip is curled up so the ram pusher mounting plate is very loose in order to ride on that I beam. It still functions but I want to straighten it if i canb98bf95435a0a44f7f49d92cf4273aa2.jpg
 
It looks like just the top flange of the beam is bent from the pic. I would use a rosebud tip on an oxy/ace torch and a sledgehammer.
Can't tell how thick the flange is from the pic but I think it would be tough to bend back down without heat. But you could try with a big crescent and a cheater pipe.
 
Which line do you see air in? The one from the tank to the pump, or the one going to the valve. Or both.

Something to consider is water in hydraulic oil can look like air through a clear hose. But it also tends to turn hydraulic oil white over time, and you say your oil is clean.
 
Oil is full would you guys recommend just checking all the fittings to see where it might be sucking in at?

One trick that I have used is to pressurize the tank with like 10 psi of air and look close for leaks.
 
I will try that I've got it all drained now. The carb on motor is leaking gas found previous owner had helicoiled the mixture screw threads....decided to buy a China carb for $20 so I don't have to deal with it.
 
Is there any tell tale issue since I'm seeing bubbles from valve to tank?
Bubbles with the tank under pressure?? If so, there is your air leak.
 
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