Thoughts on my "Controversial" install

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Very nice looking work!
 
Might consider tapping a bottom and upper vent into the chimney cavity.
 
Might consider tapping a bottom and upper vent into the chimney cavity.
My understanding was he left like a 1/2" gap top and bottom to allow some convection to take place, it shows in one of the photos. Just to be sure, I'd probably want to drill a temp probe in there to take some measurements while it's running hot for a while.
 
My understanding was he left like a 1/2" gap top and bottom to allow some convection to take place, it shows in one of the photos. Just to be sure, I'd probably want to drill a temp probe in there to take some measurements while it's running hot for a while.

Exactly - however, it did not go according to plan.The wall is up with no air gap. I'll have to retro fit some ventilation. No plan yet. Maybe drill/cut some holes? Hide them in the mortar joint somehow? This could look bad. I'll search for some pis/inspiration.

Also - because the cleanout access is in the garage, i was thinking about leaving the access panel open... maybe heat the garage a bit? Bad idea?

Thanks!
 
At what height do you make the connection to the tee? One possible problem I see is you may be limited to what stoves you can install depending on the height of the flue outlet if you ever need/decide to change stoves.
 
The Fv heat shield blocks almost all of the heat coming off the back of the stove. But what connects the stove flue collar to the (class A?) tee? What about heat radiating from the connector? I'd think it would be OK but there are a lot of factors in play here, and you need to design for a worst-case scenario, so I would try to make sure it's legit.
 
Great, thanks! This is the reassurance i was looking for. I became concerned when i got into a battle with a local fireplace store about the install. I was shocked by their ignorance, arrogance, and contempt for my install. He laughed at my Woodstock Fireview and said i shouldn't buy a no name stove. Not to start a debate, but in my opinion, Woodstock is the greatest company in this country! How could they not know Woodstock? I left and will never go back. Too bad, i wish i had a local wood store to go to.

Anyway, to answer a few questions - Yes, heat transfer is also a concern of mine. I hope the ventilated non combustible wall will dissipate enough heat.

The purpose of the wall is this - The WIFE! She wanted a fireplace with a mantel and I want a wood stove! I told her i could hide the chimney behind a wall and install a mantel. Yes, due to clearance issues, the mantel will be kinda high, but.whatever... it's there!

I have pictures of the install and will post very soon. Thanks, and stay tuned!
I ran into the same situation with my wife wanting a fireplace in our log home. I / we settled on the Hearthstone Mansfield, for its size and the large fire viewing glass. This will be our primary heat source with a propane fired radiant floor heating system for back up. We will have a basement to roof , stone chimney that is located all within the house structure . She likes this plan but always brings up " how can you build a loghome without a fireplace"
 
Ok... so I finished the wall and started the hearth. I absolutely HATE IT!!! I like the walls, but the stone hearth is just too much... I see why most fireplaces have contrasting materials. Also, the rough uneven texture doesn't seem to be the easiest to keep clean... ash and dirt will never come out. Unless i vacuum it? No way.. I want the hearth smooth for easy cleaning and leveling of the stove. Something smooth. Ugh! All the time, work and money I wasted. Oh well suck it up and move on. Damn, i was so close to installing the stove!!

Anyway, i'm thinking about pouring a concrete hearth. Does any one know how think the concrete has to be to hold the stove (450lbs)? Will standard "concrete counters" hold the stove without cracking? I believe counters are around 1.5" +/- thick. I would use high strength concrete with rebar for added strength. Any thoughts?

Sorry no pics of the hearth... trust me, It was UGLY!!!!
 
I suspect that 1 1/2 inches should be fine . . . but I've shot a note to a co-worker/friend who does concrete countertops as a side job (actually he keeps pretty busy as a firefighter/paramedic, oil delivery guy, concrete counter top manufacturer/installer and fire science instructor).

If I provide the answer though will you then show us a pic . . . I really want to see this ugly hearth . . . it's like those pics of the ugliest dogs . . . you just have to look at them . . . and sometimes they're just so ugly they're cute.
 
I suspect that 1 1/2 inches should be fine . . . but I've shot a note to a co-worker/friend who does concrete countertops as a side job (actually he keeps pretty busy as a firefighter/paramedic, oil delivery guy, concrete counter top manufacturer/installer and fire science instructor).

If I provide the answer though will you then show us a pic . . . I really want to see this ugly hearth . . . it's like those pics of the ugliest dogs . . . you just have to look at them . . . and sometimes they're just so ugly they're cute.

haha... thanks for the info! No pic of the carnage for you or anyone. But i'll tease you more with this added description - To make it worst, the hearth top stones were slightly twisted so the morter lines were on a angle. When you sat on the couch you could see the crooked lines. Oh, and the hearth face, or toe kick, (whatever you call it) was made up of leftover small stones.My wife called them chicklets... seriously, i'm really embarrassed. I'll include a picture as is stands... if you look close, you can see where i removed the cemented stones. Use your imagination! :)

photo.JPG
 
Fortunately where you are at currently you can change the hearth floor finish material to something you like more. I agree with contrast on fireplace and hearth. Your stone back walls look super sharp so your on the right track
 
haha... thanks for the info! No pic of the carnage for you or anyone. But i'll tease you more with this added description - To make it worst, the hearth top stones were slightly twisted so the morter lines were on a angle. When you sat on the couch you could see the crooked lines. Oh, and the hearth face, or toe kick, (whatever you call it) was made up of leftover small stones.My wife called them chicklets... seriously, i'm really embarrassed. I'll include a picture as is stands... if you look close, you can see where i removed the cemented stones. Use your imagination! :)

View attachment 171823

OK, close enough . . . I was still hoping for one of those cringe-worthy pics ;) . . . but fair is fair . . . I shot a message to my buddy and he asked about the size (span) of the hearth . . . he's scheduled to work today so I can ask him about the weight of the stove on 1 1/2 inches of concrete.
 
I'm running class A chimney straight from the stove
When you are finished with the hearth aesthetics, I would like to see pictures of the class A to stove connection.
p.s. I'm finding the Fireview to be a nice little stove, easy overnight burns and quite capable for its size - heating ~2250 sf 2 story with mine
 
Fortunately where you are at currently you can change the hearth floor finish material to something you like more. I agree with contrast on fireplace and hearth. Your stone back walls look super sharp so your on the right track

Thanks! Any you're right - except, now my clearances are not correct. I was supposed to have 2" on top and face of the hearth. I guess I can add extra layer of durock and pour the slab a little thicker. I Have to war game this. I just want to fire this stove up so bad!
 
When you are finished with the hearth aesthetics, I would like to see pictures of the class A to stove connection.
p.s. I'm finding the Fireview to be a nice little stove, easy overnight burns and quite capable for its size - heating ~2250 sf 2 story with mine

Hey, nice setup! Sounds like your house is similar to mine 2180sqft colonial (excluding my 340sqft bonus room addition). So it heats your house well?

I should be a bit more clear - the chimney will attach to a stove pipe adapter (which is attached to the stove). So technically, the chimney is not attached directly to the stove. There will be a inch or two +/- of stove pipe.
 
Spoke with my co-worker and he said with the plywood and cement board you should have no issues with a 1 1/2 inch concrete "counter top" supporting 450 pounds.
 
Hey, nice setup! Sounds like your house is similar to mine 2180sqft colonial (excluding my 340sqft bonus room addition). So it heats your house well?

I should be a bit more clear - the chimney will attach to a stove pipe adapter (which is attached to the stove). So technically, the chimney is not attached directly to the stove. There will be a inch or two +/- of stove pipe.
The adapter makes sense, wasn't quite sure how you were going to pull that off.

One might call my house a "contemporary" colonial. Our living room has a two story section and open stairwell up to a balcony and 3 bedrooms plus a bath. The stove is corner install so heat easily makes it to the second floor. We close the doors upstairs when they are at the temp we want. Foyer, dining and adjoining kitchen off the living room. Study in opposite corner of stove. It works for us because our house is nearly a cube shape, open floor plan and good insulation; we like 70-73 during day/evening and anything 68 and over at night; lots of leaky windows but I use 3m film for those. This is my first winter with the Fireview, so will see how things go when we go sub-zero, but so far keeping it the range we want. Have had it up to 77 when I was a bit over eager to reload. Extremely easy stove to run. Let us know how it works for you once your install is complete and you have had a chance to get used to running it.

Here is the view of our Fireview from our balcony.
IMG_0665.JPG
 
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How do you clean a chimney like that which doesn't have an accessible trap?
 
How do you clean a chimney like that which doesn't have an accessible trap?
I would pull the baffle and run a rotary cleaner right through the stove and up to the top. Then vacuum out the dust that falls into the bottom of the tee.
 
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