Feeling the Glow

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EG GREV NED MIN ELD

EG GREV NED MIN ELD

Member
Nov 25, 2013
54
usa
Jotul F-500 hearth mount. Insulated 6" corrugated SS liner about 28' tall.

Tonight has been the first real cold night we've had since I installed the new jotul.

I am burning red oak, white oak and hickory.

So far I have kept the stove cruising between 300-600

Tonight I reached 700 stove top temp measured from the back right corner. Checked with IR.

The arch at the top of the stove in front began to glow a light orange color. The primary was shut down all the way around 400deg.

I got a little nervous and stuffed some foil in the rear main intake tube, the temp immediately began to drop down to 600.

I have seen people say excursions to 900 is ok, but I start to worry when I see orange

At no point was the stove glowing, just the arch in front, behind the glass. I believe it may be air wash?

I tried to upload a photo but it was too big, I'll try again

Thanks for the input, love you guys/gals
 
Just looking for a little discussion on how hit is too hot.
 

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I'd give you an opinion on the F500 and my girlfriends experience with the "glow factor" at the base of the stack but others here say that you should take what I say with a grain of salt so I will just hang and watch.
 
Only opinion but mine is glowing is too hot even inside. I have heard people say secondaries glowing a little is normal. The wires that hold my baffle in glow but that is a little different. Anyway, if foil calmed her down, I'd look at a damper in the pipe if it is really easy to install. 28 feet is a tall stack!
 
Those temperatures would be too hot for my piece of mind. I have a Jotul F600 and my manual says the stove should be burned within the range of 400F - 600F with readings taken from one of the corners, like you indicated in your post. On my stove a 600F reading on a corner would likely yield over 800F at the center of the top, so 700F on a corner could be producing close to 900F to 1000F in the center of the top. I'd be concerned with damage at those temperatures.
 
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Never seen any glowing parts in my Oslo . . . ever . . . but I was to see something glowing I know I would be more than a little concerned and would have done just what you did . . . the tin foil trick in the incoming air.
 
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Nick is right with his comments.

Read your manual - obey the temps recommended by your manufacturer.

Other people may say they can run 700+ degrees on their stoves - fine - but you and I don't own their model of stove - we own a Jotul 500 and our manual recommends a range between 400-600 measured on a top corner (I use the right top corner).

Sitting here with 72::F inside, 22 outside, 9:30pm with stove having been loaded last almost 5 hrs. ago. Sweet heat with a knarly mix of 2 yr. seasoned hardwoods. :)
 
Is this a new stove? If so you'll probably want some way to control the draft. If you had it shut down all the way at 400 and temps still rose that much then a damper is needed and if you can't do that you can make a simple air control for those really cold nights.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/homemade-seconary-air-controll-for-oslo.120676/

I made this but no longer need to use it now that I've resealed the secondary air components on my 13 yr old Oslo. Still it's nice to have it if the need ever arises.
 
Toploader said:
Is this a new stove? If so you'll probably want some way to control the draft. If you had it shut down all the way at 400 and temps still rose that much then a damper is needed and if you can't do that you can make a simple air control for those really cold nights.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/homemade-seconary-air-controll-for-oslo.120676/

I made this but no longer need to use it now that I've resealed the secondary air components on my 13 yr old Oslo. Still it's nice to have it if the need ever arises.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply, what a great contraption you came up with.
Yes, it is a new stove. I absolutely love it I'll be cleaning it out tonight to take a peak and see if I damaged anything. I really don't think I did as I got a handle on it quick enough.
I'll have to see if I can check the secondary gaskets, any tips for that?
 
Well there aren't any gaskets to check, all the secondary components are put together with stove cement and over a long period of time it can break down and fall out causing most of the air to be pulled directly into the firebox instead of to the secondary air tubes. I'm sure that's not your problem since your stove is new, more likely just your chimney height pulling too much air through the stove in colder conditions. I'm guessing your stove will be fine but you'll want to avoid those kind temps becoming a regular thing. Make sure all the gaskets are tight including the ash pan and if they are be ready with the tinfoil or something like my contraption on those colder days.
 
Like the others have said the manufacturer recommends 400 to 600 temps. Check the gaskets and your ash pan door some people have noticed that it isn't closed tight. Make sure all doors are locked sounds stupid but it happens.
 
Thanks for the respectful replies.

I just picked up an OAK kit and am trying to come up with a way to install an inline adjustable damper on the intake.
That may help as I just don't have the room to install a 6" flue damper

I'll post up some photos when I figure out a way to run the "ugly drier vent" pipe without it being seen by the wife
 
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