Gasket Rope Kits

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mystro

Member
Dec 25, 2007
24
I have the window soot issue. I understand you can test the main door seal by pulling a single thickness writing paper eight places along the the door looking for slight resistance..mine passes this test except for about 6” along part of the bottom. Question, since 3/4 of the seal seems good, has anyone tried replacing just part of the rope by overlapping it enough to cover the seam or will I need to remove the whole rope?

Any good sources for material/rope etc?
 
Most hardware stores and or Stove stores have gasket
you just need to match the Firmness
some 3/4" gasket is soft and some are more firm just depends on the stove.
 
Thanks Rod, I'm temped to try and just replace it where needed but then I am quite frugal/cheap :) ..I'll check the store here for a length and most likely replace all the rope.
 
mystro said:
Thanks Rod, I'm temped to try and just replace it where needed but then I am quite frugal/cheap :) ..I'll check the store here for a length and most likely replace all the rope.

You must be real cheep because gasket ranges from $.50 to $2.00 per foot
most doors a gasket would be around $10 to $15 and $4 in Gasket cerement.
We do gaskets every day at our store and most of the time it comes to $25 including our time to put it on.
 
Make sure the ungasketed area on the door is not for the glass airwash! Most stoves that I know only have gasket on three sides. I use standard gasket bought at a big box store rather than the actual manufacterer's product, it was a tenth the price and seems to be working fine. Use one entire peice to do the job, I didn't have a lot of luck using three seperate peices last time because the cut ends tended to fray quicker.
 
GotzTheHotz said:
Make sure the ungasketed area on the door is not for the glass airwash! Most stoves that I know only have gasket on three sides. I use standard gasket bought at a big box store rather than the actual manufacterer's product, it was a tenth the price and seems to be working fine. Use one entire peice to do the job, I didn't have a lot of luck using three seperate peices last time because the cut ends tended to fray quicker.

That was my next question regarding the door..Airwash, after you mentioned this I started wondering if this was contributing to my increased sooting issue. I ran a bead of HT silicon around the brass trim pieces
thinking it was leaking air..could I have caused the Airwash to stop working ya think? How does the airwash work exactly?
 
Hi,
I'm only chiming in here because your topic is closely related to a concern of mine. We recently installed a new Lopi Leden Pellet stove in our newly built home. After using the stove a few times I happened to notice while in operation, I could see light where the doors meet at the top. I have also noticed a very slight smoke smell during stove start up (smell gone after afew min). One other thing that I noticed was the the stove made a whistling sound at first but eventually stopped. I know sealing of the doors during operation is important but was concerned about the door seal.

As for it's operation and appearance, we love it.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Matt
 
Majikmat47 said:
Hi,
I'm only chiming in here because your topic is closely related to a concern of mine. We recently installed a new Lopi Leden Pellet stove in our newly built home. After using the stove a few times I happened to notice while in operation, I could see light where the doors meet at the top. I have also noticed a very slight smoke smell during stove start up (smell gone after afew min). One other thing that I noticed was the the stove made a whistling sound at first but eventually stopped. I know sealing of the doors during operation is important but was concerned about the door seal.

Matt
As I mentioned in my first post, your can test the seal using paper..a strip about an inch wide will do. Just close the door on your test strip and check about eight places around the door, you should have a
resistence when you try to pull it out. also run a bead of HT silicon around your pipes inside the house where they join together.
 
Hopefully Hearth will chime in in a bit, but it is my understanding that air is drawn from one edge of the door to provide a current of air (wash) so that the soot stays off the glass. My Castile only has gasket on the two sides and top, the pellets stoves I've dealt (few) with are the same, three sides. Yes, I would think if this 'wash' process were impeded, the glass would soot quicker. My Castile only gets dirtied up on the top corner edges of the glass after a day or so running full time. As far as the start up smoke smell, I don't think that is an issue, I also don't think any pellet stove is truly a 'sealed' unit, but only negative pressure when operating (ie the air going up the stack via the cumbustion fan is causing a negative pressure draw on the firebox). The combustion process adds to this (the whistle) at start up due to the increased draw from the heat of the fire going up the stack and maybe the electronics adjusting from start up mode to running mode, once the stove is going it settles in. Just my two cents, by far an expert on these things!
 
I just can't find any pertaining info regarding exactly how the Airwash works on this WF Advantage which does have roping all the way around the door as opposed to your Castile, I did notice the flat rope used around the glass seems to only go 3/4 though..hmmm. I pulled the brass trim on one window which I sealed with silicon thinking it was leaking air a month or so ago and see if it helps cut down sooting..it looks like it's helping after just an hour.
 
On most stoves the DOOR gasket in all the way around
the GLASS gasket will be were you will NOT have any on the bottom or top of the glass depending on the type of stove.
YOUR DOOR MUST HAVE A SEAL ALL THE WAY AROUND. Unless it is a Enviro Windsor and the door gasket is part of the glass gasket and it does not have gasket on the top.


Most of the time smoke is normal for a few seconds at start up.
See this post
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/12261/
 
Thanks Rod or rather Mr.Pyro :) for clarifying that. I'm thinking I shouldn't have tried to improve Jerry Whitfields design by sealing in the brass trim since I think that's where this model stove pulls air to help clear the glass of soot..we'll see.
 
GotzTheHotz said:
The combustion process adds to this (the whistle) at start up due to the increased draw from the heat of the fire going up the stack and maybe the electronics adjusting from start up mode to running mode, once the stove is going it settles in. Just my two cents, by far an expert on these things!

Something about heat transfer most stove have more Negative pressure in the fire box before and at start up.
then when the Venting heats up the Negative pressure in the firebox will go down a few points.
 
Thanks Rod for clarifying, but I'm still confused on the door vs glass gasket. Unless I'm confused which is probably so, the Quads I'm familiar with only have 'door' gasket around three sides (both sides and top OR bottom), my Castile and others that I've seen are the same. The 'door' gasket is the one that is on the inside of the glass between the glass and the stove body, the glass gasket is between the outside of the glass and the door frame, correct?
 
Im not sure about quad
but most stoves have DOOR gaskets and then Gasket for the glass
Glass Gasket is Between the Glass and the door
the door gasket is on the edge of the door the fits up against the stove
 
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