Stove loading pics?

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Fairly new to heating with wood here just bought a pacific energy super 27 in September of last year. I burn very dry lodgepole pine, and so far love the setup. I see here you guys load your stoves right to the baffles. Would love to try it in my stove but Im a little worried about a runaway as its called here. Anyone else load their super 27 completely up with pine? Results? Please and thank you.
 
I'm new to using a Wood Stove insert I got with the house. I've been using it but would like some experienced opinions on the loading. Been having trouble finding answers on the site, lot of information to dig through on here but it seems great so far.
Do I load past the height of the firebrick?
Can I safely butt up against the metal tray in there? What is that metal tray for? just to keep from blocking the exhaust out of the box?
Is it safe to allow some wood to sit on top of the firebrick on the sides?
Can I put wood in front of that metal tray if I stack the wood past the firebricks towards the front of the box?
It's an Alaska Kodiak. The manual isn't clear about how much to load the box with.
Thanks!

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would a log hitting the glass really do anything? i mean, it's not high impact and the heat's going to be the same if it's touching or 1" away.

Nope. The glass is a ceramic composite and it quite tough. It would take a lot of energy to break it. As another poster said, people who break glass likely do it when closing the door and some of the wood is protruding.

All it will do (I've had it happen to me) is the glass turns sooty (creosote I suppose) just around where the log is toughing the glass, That spot becomes cooler and gases condense on there. It will clean itself out the next hot burn.

What you want to avoid is likely extreme temperature shock, so avoid water or snow going on the glass. If there is a small crack/fracture and something cold touches it, crack propagation would likely happen and you'd need to replace it.
 
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Thanks for all the replies. I really did not expect this thread to go so well!
I have been loading it up more since, though definitely not as impressive as I have an E/W loading stove (at least too long of wood, could cut it shorter in the future).
 
I'm new to using a Wood Stove insert I got with the house. I've been using it but would like some experienced opinions on the loading. Been having trouble finding answers on the site, lot of information to dig through on here but it seems great so far.
Do I load past the height of the firebrick?
Can I safely butt up against the metal tray in there? What is that metal tray for? just to keep from blocking the exhaust out of the box?
Is it safe to allow some wood to sit on top of the firebrick on the sides?
Can I put wood in front of that metal tray if I stack the wood past the firebricks towards the front of the box?
It's an Alaska Kodiak. The manual isn't clear about how much to load the box with.
Thanks!

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View attachment 171956
That metal tray is your baffle, generally speaking most manufactures don't recommend loading above the fire bricks
 
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Loaded the Oslo last night at 10pm with plenty of coals for reload at 7:30 this morning and a room temp of 65, cold and windy outside.
20" logs are a good length for the Oslo, easy enough to handle stack and load and if placed right can't fall against the glass.
12 to 14 inch loaded n/s work well too.
 

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My firebox is fairly deep (3 rows of brick +/- ashes) and if I loaded up as much as what I have seen, I would have my garage door and front door open. I loaded up my stove with some frosty cottonwood & my blower was not turning on. After seeing this post I figured why not load it up! Well, I put a lot of cottonwood bark into it and got a quick response.... It got hot but this is my flue temp.


hot stove 2.jpgstove temp cottonwood bark.jpg
 
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