Chain Sharpening Guide

Welcome to this wonderful site!
Look into getting a Stihl 2in1 sharpener for that chain size.

You can't go wrong with it!

Sean McGillicuddy said:

Look into getting a Stihl 2in1 sharpener for that chain size.

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Having never used one of the 2-in-1 type sharpeners listed above, I'd say they look nice but are quite pricey. I think their big advantage is that they take the rakers down as the cutters are filed back, saving you from having to do that as a separate operation. That's a nice feature, but if I was only renting a place with a stove and was watching pennies, I wouldn't be willing to make that investment.

You're right that a guide of some kind is a good idea. I've read about people who can consistently do a good job of freehand filing, but I haven't personally met anyone who could, and I've seen a lot of old chains that were made into godawful messes by such "sharpening" attempts.

The type you found in the shed is the standard old-school Stihl guide. Oregon makes one that's almost identical. They are the cheapest, most basic guides available. All they do is hang the file at the right height relative to the cutter and raker; it's up to you to hold the angles consistent, so there's still plenty of room for error. They do make a version of it specifically for the Picco chain you're using, but the difference between the two guides wouldn't be large enough to make me want to run out and buy the correct one if I were in your position.

I really like the roller-type guides marketed by Husqvarna. They are relatively foolproof, because they control the position and orientation of the file even better than the 2-in-one guides that others suggested, and at about a third of the price. Operation might not be quite as intuitive as the 2-in-1 jigs, and probably somewhat slower too.

Regardless of the guide, the main thing will be understanding what you're trying to accomplish. You aren't just running the file across each tooth and hoping for the best; you're trying to remove enough metal to get rid of all the dullness, and you're trying to keep all the teeth consistent in shape and size. A chain that has been abused, poorly sharpened or damaged by hitting rocks or nails might not be worth the work it would take to save it. I suggest you post close-up pics of the chain you'd like to sharpen, before you spend a lot of time on it.

I'm pretty confident that a 3/8 chain needs a 7/32 file. A .325 chain needs a 3/16 file.

cachunko said:

I'm pretty confident that a 3/8 chain needs a 7/32 file. A .325 chain needs a 3/16 file.

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You're thinking of full-size 3/8 chain, not the little low-profile chain the OP is dealing with.

Got ya. I have never seen a PICCO chain before, only heard of them.

Picco is what Stihl calls their low-profile chain. Oregon's equivalent is their 91-series chain models.

I hand file with no guide. I find I can get a good firm bite and apply more pressure into the file stroke to take off metal and put a good clean edge on the cutter. If you don't see metal shavings coming off the chain your not applying enough pressure.

Naturally a file guide will ensure you get the angle correct but honestly I've never used one. I've had lots of chains I sharpened badly but like anything the more you do the better you get.

If the chain still has the slanted marks on the top of the cutters those indicate the angle of the file. You also need to file on a slight vertical angle as well. If you can find the old box the chain came in it may have filing instructions on it. Or I'm sure it's available on line.

Last tip, make sure your bar is level when you sharpen. Do you have a bench vise ? If yes clamp the bar level in the vise. If you don't have a vise then find a good size round of wood, stand it up on its ends, and make a rip cut in it to make a groove to hold your chainsaw/ bar in. That will keep the saw level and steady while you file the chain. It's what most guys I know when touching up a chain in the woods.

You mentioned your saw was not cutting well after 30 minutes. It's easy to dull a chain if you accidentally hit the dirt, rocks, etc. I always carry a file with me in the woods and sometimes run it over the chain several times a day while cutting . Even if you don't get it perfectly filed, a fresh edge on the cutters will keep the wood chips flying to some degree.

Also remember to run a flat file over the rakers every 4 or 5 sharpens. For that I always use a depth gauge. If you take the rakers down too far , the saw will be very grabby and harder to handle in the cut so a depth gauge prevents you from taking off too much metal.

Go to your local saw dealer and ask them what they recommend. Buy it, and ask them to briefly describe how to use it.

For $20-something from Northern Tool you can get a Granberg "File-N-Joint" that you can use on all sorts of saw chain. Just use appropriate size file. It's really easy to keep a chain razor-sharp using one. Just gotta expend a bit of conscious thought to get up to speed with it- no biggie.
A stump vise is also a good idea, typically $8 at NT.
Below 40 F, it's a good idea to got to multigrade b&c oil or mix in up to 25% kero with the SAE 30 oil.

Some common chain PITCHES (smallest to largest): 1/4 < 3/8LP < .325 < 3/8 < .404

Most folks will only encounter one of the following three pitches. Also listed are the round file sizes that sharpen them:

3/8LP ---> 5/32"
.325 ---> 3/16"
3/8 ---> 13/64" or 7/32"

Note #1
3/8LP = 3/8 low profile = Stihl "Picco" chain. That is, they are different names for the same pitch. (Also note that while 3/8LP pitch and 3/8 pitch have names that often cause confusion, they are not at all close in size.)

Note #2
Stihl specifies 13/64" files for sharpening 3/8 pitch chain, while Oregon/Husqvarna specifies 7/32" files. Neither is wrong. In fact, many will use both round file sizes on the same chain, but at different stages of the chain's tooth life.

Note #3
In general, file guides are made specifically for a particular pitch and are not to be used on chains of other pitches. Some file guides are even more specialized to work with a particular brand of chain or even a particular tooth shape. (An example is the File-O-Plate; there is one model for full chisel chain and another model for semi-chisel chain of the same pitch.) The bottom line is that it's best to use file guides from the maker of the chain.

Note #4
Not all files and chains have the same hardness. Since Stihl teeth are harder than those found on standard Oregon/Husqvarna chain, softer Oregon files will not perform as well as harder Stihl (and other) files.

I hand file with no guide. I find I can get a good firm bite and apply more pressure into the file stroke to take off metal and put a good clean edge on the cutter. If you don't see metal shavings coming off the chain your not applying enough pressure.

No and no. No pressure with the file if its in good condition...new preferred. "Bearing down" and "making shavings" just destroys the edge = a raised bit of steel that ain't sharp. You should be getting steel dust, not shavings. Get a good guide like the Stihl ( made by Pferd ) for the specific chain as said.
Good to learn how to sharpen by hand anyhow. None of us can freehand all the time and have a beer on hand. Just saying.

DUMF said:

I hand file with no guide. I find I can get a good firm bite and apply more pressure into the file stroke to take off metal and put a good clean edge on the cutter. If you don't see metal shavings coming off the chain your not applying enough pressure.

No and no. No pressure with the file if its in good condition...new preferred. "Bearing down" and "making shavings" just destroys the edge = a raised bit of steel that ain't sharp. You should be getting steel dust, not shavings. Get a good guide like the Stihl ( made by Pferd ) for the specific chain as said.
Good to learn how to sharpen by hand anyhow. None of us can freehand all the time and have a beer on hand. Just saying.

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Right metal dust is what I meant to say. To me shavings is the word that came to my mind first. My bench vise gets covered in metal dust not shavings. I don't think one could make shavings from hand filing that would take a lot of hand pressure I'm sure the file would end up bending before shavings came off your chain.

Good point on the condition of the file. I'm guilty of trying to stretch files longer than I should when it would be easier to just get a new file.

Right on keeping files well beyond their time. We are cheap @&%$, aren't we all ? Good ale and sharp files.

Don't worry about the cold weather shutter just run the saw. Some saws at all price points don't even come with that feature. Sure it's nice but if I had wood to cut that wouldn't stop me.

As for your chain you will know when it's sharp feel it you can feel a nice edge on the cutters . Just don't cut yourself obviously. And check the rakers ( depth guages ) if they are too high it won't matter how sharp your chain is . Don't go by eye you can't see if they are too high or not by eye. If your not sure and you can't find your guage run the flat file only ONCE across the depth guage . It's very easy to take too much off the raker. Then go try cutting. If you see saw chips flying and it feels smooth you did fine.

DUMF said:

Right on keeping files well beyond their time. We are cheap @&%$, aren't we all ? Good ale and sharp files.

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This time of year a nice brown ale, porter , or milk stout sounds just fine especially after splitting wood when its -5 degrees out

woodhog73 said:

This time of year a nice brown ale, porter , or milk stout sounds just fine especially after splitting wood when its -5 degrees out

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Give me a plain good bitter or ale. I hate porter and stout ( "milk" stout ? ). Hate it, like drinking molasses.

If you cut me, I'd bleed Guinness !