tarm solo inova 50 burning wood just to burn wood

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rippa25m

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Jun 12, 2015
38
Hopkinsville kentucky
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I'm sure I'm missing something but I have a new inova 50 with 1000 gal storage. It's been in the 40's all week and I can keep a fire going for 12 hours straight and not get my tanks above 120. Then the next morning the tanks are at 70 and I start all over again. My tanks are insulated and in there own room in a heated shop. I'm sure I may have to give more info or pics so if anyone can help please let me know what u need. The pic was taken before i enclosed the tanks an filled the room with insulation. thanks Rick
 
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When was your wood supply split and stacked under cover and what species? Have you "tuned" the combustion air supply to achieve the best flame? What is the maximum boiler temperature during your burn? Do you have return water temperature protection?
 
When was your wood supply split and stacked under cover and what species? Have you "tuned" the combustion air supply to achieve the best flame? What is the maximum boiler temperature during your burn? Do you have return water temperature protection?
I've used slabs that were cut last year and blocks that were cut last year mostly hard wood and stored inside. Moisture around 15 to 20 % I've adjusted the combination air and tried different settings. My boiler rarely gets above 150. And I do have return water temp protection. When I first started this unit two months ago I would get 150 degree water at the top of my tank in about 45 min. Now I'm lucky to get 120 after burning it for 12 hours
 
I've used slabs that were cut last year and blocks that were cut last year mostly hard wood and stored inside. Moisture around 15 to 20 % I've adjusted the combination air and tried different settings. My boiler rarely gets above 150. And I do have return water temp protection. When I first started this unit two months ago I would get 150 degree water at the top of my tank in about 45 min. Now I'm lucky to get 120 after burning it for 12 hours
My boiler will be showing 150 but my top tank will be 100 to 120
 
My boiler will be showing 150 but my top tank will be 100 to 120
My first thoughts are where Fred61 is going, wood is bridging. I had bridging issues last year and struggled getting tank temp up but never as low as yours. Have you looked in during the burn to see if the wood is dropping or if you poke at it can you get the wood to drop? I this this is probably the first possibility you want to eliminate.
 
My first thoughts are where Fred61 is going, wood is bridging. I had bridging issues last year and struggled getting tank temp up but never as low as yours. Have you looked in during the burn to see if the wood is dropping or if you poke at it can you get the wood to drop? I this this is probably the first possibility you want to eliminate.
It does bridge some times but I'm adding a few sticks about every three hours and I poke it down. I'm heating my insulated garage and an isolated 20x25 basement at the house and an isolated 60x45 concreat slab in my shop
 
It does bridge some times but I'm adding a few sticks about every three hours and I poke it down. I'm heating my insulated garage and an isolated 20x25 basement at the house and an isolated 60x45 concreat slab in my shop
Others will probably have more suggestions but maybe taking what you have and splitting it into much smaller pieces to see if you can get a fire that you are confident didn't bridge. Alternately is you can get a load of kiln dried firewood to see what happens. I mentioned it in a different thread but I actually watched my boiler burn through wood whiling cooling off my tanks, just never anywhere near the temps you are talking about. If it was really cold I would suggest considering if you are way under powered but based on the temps you mentioned, doesn't seem likely.
 
Others will probably have more suggestions but maybe taking what you have and splitting it into much smaller pieces to see if you can get a fire that you are confident didn't bridge. Alternately is you can get a load of kiln dried firewood to see what happens. I mentioned it in a different thread but I actually watched my boiler burn through wood whiling cooling off my tanks, just never anywhere near the temps you are talking about. If it was really cold I would suggest considering if you are way under powered but based on the temps you mentioned, doesn't seem likely.
Shouldn't the boiler get hotter then 150. My stack temp is 450
 
Ad of right now my boiler has been going for 6 hours non stop it's 36 degree outside I have 112 degree water coming into the boiler and 150 out but I'm getting 130 out of my top tank into the mixer for the floor
I'm probably the least technical guy on here but I think I am the only guy on the internet right now:). Regarding the stack temps, I never took a look at mine when it was bridging so I am not sure. My view of the world is limited to what I know about my system. In my setup I have a mixing pump that does not open up until boiler temp reaches 72C. At that point it starts to open up and let some of the water from the bottom tank into the boiler. I forget if its target mix temp is 72C or a little lower. Based on what little I know I would think it is possible that you wood is bridging, therefore you are never gasifying and with such cold water running into your boiler and no gasification, it can never get the water very hot.
 
Not sure what it is - but there's definitely something wrong.

Sounds like you might need a thorough boiler cleaning to start with. Then make sure you've got the basics. Have you measured your flue draft? My inclination is wood that is not as dry as you think it is.

It will take a long time to charge the tanks up at first, but that's a very capable boiler.
 
I'm probably the least technical guy on here but I think I am the only guy on the internet right now:). Regarding the stack temps, I never took a look at mine when it was bridging so I am not sure. My view of the world is limited to what I know about my system. In my setup I have a mixing pump that does not open up until boiler temp reaches 72C. At that point it starts to open up and let some of the water from the bottom tank into the boiler. I forget if its target mix temp is 72C or a little lower. Based on what little I know I would think it is possible that you wood is bridging, therefore you are never gasifying and with such cold water running into your boiler and no gasification, it can never get the water very hot.
Mine is also set to open and let colder water in at 72c. I'm burning slabs in it today and really watching to to make sue it's not bridging
 
Not sure what it is - but there's definitely something wrong.

Sounds like you might need a thorough boiler cleaning to start with. Then make sure you've got the basics. Have you measured your flue draft? My inclination is wood that is not as dry as you think it is.

It will take a long time to charge the tanks up at first, but that's a very capable boiler.
I have ran into wood that was about 30% I'm not sure how to measure flu draft
 
I have ran into wood that was about 30% I'm not sure how to measure flu draft
I think the moisture in the wood is a lot of my problem. I just checked the slabs I'm burning today an they are 25% but it is doing much better then it was. Another problem I had was after I got everything to temp from the time I went to bed till I woke up my tank temp would be 90 at the top. Seemed like a big drop from 180 to 90 in say 10 hours
 
I think the moisture in the wood is a lot of my problem. I just checked the slabs I'm burning today an they are 25% but it is doing much better then it was. Another problem I had was after I got everything to temp from the time I went to bed till I woke up my tank temp would be 90 at the top. Seemed like a big drop from 180 to 90 in say 10 hours
I have a thread going on heaing with low flow temp water that might help:). That is a bit of a joke, 2 thoughts: 1. Do you know what the temp is in the rest of the tank? If for some reason only the top layer of water is getting heated you have minimal BTU's in the tanks 2. If the boiler is still running when you go to bed it can bridge and actually run lower temperature water into your tanks and drop temp as it consumes wood - personal experience talking here.
 
Ad of right now my boiler has been going for 6 hours non stop it's 36 degree outside I have 112 degree water coming into the boiler and 150 out but I'm getting 130 out of my top tank into the mixer for the floor

If your return protection is working water going into the boiler should never be under 140 F. I'm guessing maybe your slab isn't insulated and your heating the ground ?
 
I have a thread going on heaing with low flow temp water that might help:). That is a bit of a joke, 2 thoughts: 1. Do you know what the temp is in the rest of the tank? If for some reason only the top layer of water is getting heated you have minimal BTU's in the tanks 2. If the boiler is still running when you go to bed it can bridge and actually run lower temperature water into your tanks and drop temp as it consumes wood - personal experience talking here.
 
About 30 minutes ago I had 150 at the top and 85 at the bottom the slabs are bringing it up to temp. I will keep an eye on it to see if it's bridging. I think one of my problems is I was treating it like a wood stove and putting big round pieces in it at night and I think the moisture was high in them
 
Ad of right now my boiler has been going for 6 hours non stop it's 36 degree outside I have 112 degree water coming into the boiler and 150 out but I'm getting 130 out of my top tank into the mixer for the floor

If you have 112 water going into the boiler, your return temp protection is not working. It should maintain 140 coming into the boiler. (actually that was already mentioned I think, but I'll repeat anyway for emphasis). I think you need to fully clean the boiler for starters, having return temps that low will build creosote - especially combined with wood that isn't dry.

More pictures of the whole thing might help. You should be able to get on top of this.
 
If you have 112 water going into the boiler, your return temp protection is not working. It should maintain 140 coming into the boiler. (actually that was already mentioned I think, but I'll repeat anyway for emphasis). I think you need to fully clean the boiler for starters, having return temps that low will build creosote - especially combined with wood that isn't dry.

More pictures of the whole thing might help. You should be able to get on top of this.
I definitely have a return temperature protection problem. I got 160 at the top of the tank and I still have 120 going into my boiler
 

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I don't have a pressure system but my tarm 50 (5th year) has never had creosote or bridging. I split the wood fairly small, let it dry to under 20%, cross-stacked for air flow. Measuring moisture should be done by splitting a piece and checking inside the split. The Tarm has been great, bringing outgoing storage water temp to over 180 before I stop. This is more work but it pays off. Good luck with the Tarm - a very good boiler.
 
I definitely have a return temperature protection problem. I got 160 at the top of the tank and I still have 120 going into my boiler

How bout a close up pic of the loading unit & dials while you're burning? Looks like its plumbed right.
 
Also, what's up with the cast iron rad? Looks like all your boiler flow is going through it? Unless I'm not seeing right. That would strip some heat. And make that room pretty warm.
 
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