Barometric Damper Problems

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
B

buckbane

New Member
Dec 4, 2015
11
Wi
Hi all,

I'm having some problems getting my barometric damper set up properly. I can get it to operate correctly if it's adjusted for 0.07 - 0.08 wc, but if I try setting it for 0.05-0.06 wc, it tends to stick open. What I've observed is that when the thermostat closes the firebox damper on my Drolet Tundra, there is a strong pull on the barometric damper, which opens it up beyond the point where the counter weight is able to bring it back down. This is the type of damper that I have: https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...4445447127-c-6881.htm?tid=3546137085116701279

Any suggestions?
 
Field is a brand name. I'm no expert, but I don't think a barometric damper sticking open is normal. Perhaps you can bend something or other. I'd say defective.
 
I had one of those baros before and it was not very good. I could never get it down to .06", .08 was the best I could get. Anytime the thing would close it would stay shut. So if I forgot to look after I loaded the furnace it would stay shut which in return would cut my burn time to less than half. I finally put a paper clip on the top of it so it couldn't close. Definatley spend a few extra bucks and get a good one. When I bought my Kuuma, a baro comes with it as part of the furnace. Not sure what brand it is but it is smooth as butter and very easy to adjust. A baro should be one of those things that you should only need to purchase once so you might as well spend a few more $ and get a good one.
 
So your baro is a Vogelzang, I know one other person that has a VZ baro...nuttin but problems. And they have kinda a small opening, if you have a high drafting chimney that may not be big enough to get the draft down to specs.
I'd second buying a Fields baro, that's what comes with some of the better furnaces. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
FYI, I'd put a manual damper in above the baro, use that to control draft normally, if that is not enough to bring things under control then you can open the baro up which is normally covered by HD aluminum foil to keep the baro from cooling the flue
 
brenndatomu said:
So your baro is a Vogelzang, I know one other person that has a VZ baro...nuttin but problems. And they have kinda a small opening, if you have a high drafting chimney that may not be big enough to get the draft down to specs.
I'd second buying a Fields baro, that's what comes with some of the better furnaces. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal
FYI, I'd put a manual damper in above the baro, use that to control draft normally, if that is not enough to bring things under control then you can open the baro up which is normally covered by HD aluminum foil to keep the baro from cooling the flue
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback all. Brenndatomu, that Fields baro that you linked to should just fit right inside my existing tee, correct?
 
How do you know this? Are you using a monometer?
 
buckbane said:
Thanks for the feedback all. Brenndatomu, that Fields baro that you linked to should just fit right inside my existing tee, correct?
Click to expand...
If the VZ baro comes out of that tee, then I would say yes. If not, the Fields comes with what you need to make it fit
 
I have the same ( Vogelazang from Menards ) baro and I can keep mine right at 0.06 during a burn. It took a little bit of time to get it tweaked in though. When the burn is over or if I am not using wood furnace, it will close shut. IMHO, it sounds like you got a defective product.
 
Is it "stuck" open?. Do you need to knock it loose to make it close back down when your fire goes back to a simmer?

If not, maybe it is just temporarily overwhelmed and can't cope with the amount of draft created by your chimney when it's hot.
You could do an experiment by sticking more weight on the damper to the side with the adjustment weight on it. Modeling clay or something heavy that doesn't require drilling holes (in case you want a warranted refund). See if that makes it operate more within a wider range of draft requirements.
 
DaveBP said:
Is it "stuck" open?. Do you need to knock it loose to make it close back down when your fire goes back to a simmer?

If not, maybe it is just temporarily overwhelmed and can't cope with the amount of draft created by your chimney when it's hot.
You could do an experiment by sticking more weight on the damper to the side with the adjustment weight on it. Modeling clay or something heavy that doesn't require drilling holes (in case you want a warranted refund). See if that makes it operate more within a wider range of draft requirements.
Click to expand...
I would bet it just sticks, if my Fields Control isn't centered quite right it can get suck in the closed position. Just not enough draft to get it past that sticking point.
 
DaveBP said:
You could do an experiment by sticking more weight on the damper to the side with the adjustment weight on it. Modeling clay or something heavy that doesn't require drilling holes (in case you want a warranted refund)
Click to expand...
A little magnet from the fridge...?
 
DaveBP said:
Is it "stuck" open?. Do you need to knock it loose to make it close back down when your fire goes back to a simmer?

If not, maybe it is just temporarily overwhelmed and can't cope with the amount of draft created by your chimney when it's hot.
You could do an experiment by sticking more weight on the damper to the side with the adjustment weight on it. Modeling clay or something heavy that doesn't require drilling holes (in case you want a warranted refund). See if that makes it operate more within a wider range of draft requirements.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it gets stuck open. I have to physically push it closed. Like I said, if I have it set for 0.06 wc, when the firebox damper closes, the baro then seems to be pulled open so wide that the counter weight inside the baro is brought beyond the point where it is able to bring it back closed again. However, this is not the case when it is set for 0.08 wc...the counterweight is able to shut it down.
 
Mine binds now & then, it sticks closed. I find the flapper has worked it's way sideways just a tiny bit to cause a bind - I just move it around & back in place until it doesn't stick shut again. Mine is a cheapy.

Sounds like there is a similar binding point on yours, but it's at the wide open point. I am wondering if you could add something on that would stop the flapper from opening just before it gets to the binding wide open spot. Not sure what that something would be. Could be a small long skinny bolt fastened into the top cylindrical part that the flapper would touch when open (would require drilling a small hole). Or a piece of wire doing the same thing? Or a skinny piece of wire fastened to the back of the flapper on the adjustment dial that sticks out into the pipe horizontally when flapper is closed then when it opens it would bring up against the top of the cylinder just before the flapper gets to the sticking point?

But either way I thinks it's a defect of the damper. Could be particular to just the one you got, or could be common to that model.
 
maple1 said:
Mine binds now & then, it sticks closed. I find the flapper has worked it's way sideways just a tiny bit to cause a bind - I just move it around & back in place until it doesn't stick shut again. Mine is a cheapy.

Sounds like there is a similar binding point on yours, but it's at the wide open point. I am wondering if you could add something on that would stop the flapper from opening just before it gets to the binding wide open spot. Not sure what that something would be. Could be a small long skinny bolt fastened into the top cylindrical part that the flapper would touch when open (would require drilling a small hole). Or a piece of wire doing the same thing? Or a skinny piece of wire fastened to the back of the flapper on the adjustment dial that sticks out into the pipe horizontally when flapper is closed then when it opens it would bring up against the top of the cylinder just before the flapper gets to the sticking point?

But either way I thinks it's a defect of the damper. Could be particular to just the one you got, or could be common to that model.
Click to expand...

Mine has quite a bit of side-to-side play in it as well...sounds like a similar issue. I ordered The Fields that was linked to earlier; I'll see if that performs better.
 
Yeah the Fields will have a little play too but if everything is installed/setup correctly, it shouldn't be an issue. Mine usually isn't an issue. Make sure it is installed plumb and level (both ways)
 
brenndatomu said:
So your baro is a Vogelzang, I know one other person that has a VZ baro...nuttin but problems.
Click to expand...

I have heard of some people having issues with furnaces being purchased at Menards as well, you wouldn't happen to know anything about this, would ya? lol :p

Big box stores are just not a good place to buy certain items.

brenndatomu said:
Make sure it is installed plumb and level (both ways)
Click to expand...

I will double that. When I had my chimney installed they also hooked up my stove pipe and installed my BD. I double checked the levelness horizontally but didn't vertically. Almost all last winter I had to keep adjusting it in order to keep it set correctly. I then moved it and when I did I made sure it was leveled horizontally and vertically. I have not had to touch it since then.
 
JRHAWK9 said:
I have heard of some people having issues with furnaces being purchased at Menards as well, you wouldn't happen to know anything about this, would ya?
Click to expand...
I've heard of that too...but I don't have one of them so...;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: sloeffle and JRHAWK9
Just an update...the Fields damper I ordered arrived today; shipping was super quick. Got it installed and it is sweet. Very smooth, and very easy to adjust. I can now see how a barometric damper is supposed to function. Again, thank you all for the assistance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: brenndatomu and velvetfoot
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Drolet Heat Commander secondary burn...
Replies
8
Views
3K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
laynes69
laynes69
S
Barometric Damper Removal from Grandma Bear
Replies
3
Views
1K
Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More
Saddleman
S
C
Overdraft and barometric damper on a Napoleon HMF200 / Continental CHMF200
Replies
23
Views
3K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
brenndatomu
brenndatomu
DoubleB
  • Sticky
Tundra/Heatmax Information Guide
Replies
15
Views
17K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
ezequias
E
webfish
  • Locked
Coal Appliances COAL - TIPS FOR STARTING A COAL FIRE
Replies
0
Views
28K
Articles
webfish
webfish
Top Bottom
Back