Wood Heat & Humidification

Seal your house tighter and you will also have more humidity, Woodstoves don't dry the air out like we tend to believe, what happens is that woodstove combustion forces cold dryer air into the home from the outside, its just something to think about.

http://www.essickair.com/humidifiers/large-home-2000-sq-ft.html
You can adjust the fan and the humidistat. I typically fill one of the two cannisters each morning. Depending on the model each cannister holds a couple gallons. On the low fan speed noise is tolerable.

Agree with Kenny, though oftentimes you cannot always address all the leaks (sliding glass doors etc)

My wife bought an untrasonic one. It has a directional motor on it and acts as a night light as well. The kids love it and ask for it to be in their rooms. Air leaks or not, any home in the winter is dry.

http://www.target.com/p/homedics-oscillating-cool-mist/-/A-14114903#prodSlot=_1_34

We had to go the other direction by adding two dehumidifiers to the house. One on the main floor where the wood stove is and one in the semi heated basement. Windows were always soaking wet in the morning and had to be towel dried off. Our house is fairly new (rebuilt) and I believe is fairly air tight.

While the stove provides lots of warmth I am not sure, at least in our case, that it dried the house out. So many variables and each home has it own unique qualities.

Interesting information. Good luck with your scenario.

LocustBurner said:

House is very 'tight' already as 18 months ago we replaced a 20 yr. old slider with a new super energy efficient French door, changed out the old entry door w/ much better one, and have a full view security storm door on it.
Fairly new double glazed windows all around.

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The stove needs outside air. An outside air kit (OAK) is just a direct hose/pipe connection to the outside, so that the combustion air goes directly into the stove and doesn't get sucked into your house first. This would allow your humidified air to stay in the house and not go up the chimney. Just a suggestion...

?? Is the OAK to a Woodstock stove an "air tight" fit?? I recall a thread a few yrs ago, with I believe a summit insert, where the user indicated that the OAK fitting to the air inlet on the stove was not "air tight" and he reported noticing cold outside air blowing out the bottom front of his insert.

LocustBurner said:

House is very 'tight' already as 18 months ago we replaced a 20 yr. old slider with a new super energy efficient French door, changed out the old entry door w/ much better one, and have a full view security storm door on it.
Fairly new double glazed windows all around.

Click to expand...

If you still need to add moisture, it is likely not a very tight house. Try sealing the following:
1.Wood mudsill where it meets concrete foundation.
2.Pull electrical panel cover and seal around wires coming through conduit into the box (Do your homework/be safe or hire electrician for this).
3.Seal around all pipes penetrating exterior walls.
4.Pull exterior light fixtures and seal/insulate at penetrations.
5.Pull all receptacle covers at walls facing outside and install insulating gaskets below.
6. Seal around all heating piping and plumbing piping penetrating the first floor from basement.
7. Seal around all recessed cans and other penetrations in ceiling.
8. Find any/all hollow chase walls and seal inside at bottom and top.
9. Check all exhaust fans to ensure internal check damper closing when not in use. Consider upgrade to modern fan and/or positive seal roof vent.
10. If replacing siding, consider using fully adhered exterior air/moisture barrier (Henry Blueskin VP100 or similar) instead of tyvek/house wrap, which usually is not properly installed or taped.
11. Check/repair/replace weatherstripping on all exterior doors , and at doors connecting to unheated garage spaces etc. Even new doors can have poorly sealing weatherstripping.
12. Windows of course.

This is the level of pickiness you need on a typical existing home built within the last 50-60 years or so.
This is air-sealing only....of course you should insulate the heck out of everything too, including hot water pipes.

I have a humidifier that boils water (1-4 gallons per day depending on the outside temp and humidity) in the stove room and a funky German air purifier one in the bedroom. The bedroom one is super quiet, takes a lot of gack out of the air, and needs no replacement parts- but it doesn't put out a lot of water (depends on ambient RH), and it does take a lot of cleaning for a humidifier.