Oslo - Need new gaskets

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J

jotul8e2

Minister of Fire
Feb 2, 2008
595
Ozarks
It is time - perhaps a bit past the time, really - to replace the door gaskets on my Jotul F500 Oslo.

1. Woodmans Parts Plus is the only online source I know.
2, They carry Rutland's gasket rope and cement, about $34 for the ash pan, front glass door, and side door.
3. On the parts list for my stove, they have a "Universal Jotul Gasket Set" - $$41. From the photo it includes gaskets for any number of places.

Any suggestions or recommendations are appreciated.
 
It's not on-line, but I checked with my local dealer . . . price was pretty decent. I think I paid a little less than $40 for the cement, gaskets for the front door and ash pan and I bought three feet of insulating material to go above my baffle.
 
When I got my F400 used I bought the Jotul universal gasket kit. Had everything I needed with just a little left over: Door, ash pan, window, secondary baffle, smoke outlet etc... Also had just enough cement in the bag. Might be worth looking into but you will have a lot extra if your just doing the doors.
 
Up here in PA, home depo has Rutland kits, rope X size and cement. Also stove store has rolls. Just pay per foot or so.I thought it was around 10 . But I haven't done it in years. Maybe the cement has gotten better, but it got rock hard and didn't hold well. I switched the high temp silicon copper, from the auto parts store. I think it available from stove sources now. Silicon was much better to work with
 
axeman628 said:
When I got my F400 used I bought the Jotul universal gasket kit. Had everything I needed with just a little left over: Door, ash pan, window, secondary baffle, smoke outlet etc... Also had just enough cement in the bag. Might be worth looking into but you will have a lot extra if your just doing the doors.
Click to expand...

I was not going to do the glass - should I? I almost never open the front door, much less mess with the glass. I just assumed it is still ok. I have no signs of any of the other gaskets leaking and I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy.
 
Gaskets are regular maintenance work and very easy to do. They also don't cost much. But I agree that there is no need to do the glass unless there are signs that it is needed.
 
jotul8e2 said:
I was not going to do the glass - should I? I almost never open the front door, much less mess with the glass. I just assumed it is still ok. I have no signs of any of the other gaskets leaking and I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy.
Click to expand...

If it looks good, and it's not leaking leave it alone. AFAIK the door gaskets are the ones that should be regularly replaced. I only did all of my gaskets because my stove was used and I figured starting as close to new couldn't hurt.
 
I got Rutland gasket material from my local hardware store. Did the front and side door gaskets. No need to do the glass. Made the stove a completely controllable heat monster. Good luck
 
CentralVAWoodHeat said:
How long are you all getting between gasket replacements on your Jotul Stoves?
Click to expand...

I'm in my seventh season with the original gaskets. I still have not bought any - it does not appear to be urgent, but the door gaskets are noticeably compressed.
 
I'm on year five and all my gaskets are original. Doors all pass dollar bill test. Chimney sweep said they all look fine.
 
I did my door gasket this year ... seven years ... after doing the dollar bill test and finding an area that wasn't as grippy on the dollar. I may do the glass gasket next year.
 
jotul8e2 said:
I'm in my seventh season with the original gaskets. I still have not bought any - it does not appear to be urgent, but the door gaskets are noticeably compressed.
Click to expand...
This is my 8th year (I think...) and will replace my door and ash door gaskets this summer. I have noticed the door gasket is quite compressed, but with the Jotul "self adjusting" door latch, no wood has fallen out yet. :p
 
Thanks, everyone. I'm only on year two with my Castine and everything is still nearly perfect. Looks like I have plenty of years to go.
 
I would get the OEM kit, either from woodmanspartsplus or from the dealer. That way, you know all the gaskets are the correct density and formulation. You might just do the door gasket for now, and others if needed in the off-season. For sure, I would do the bypass gasket at some point. They get packed with fly ash. You might be able to just fluff the bypass gasket and vacuum it to restore some pliancy, but if it's been a long time I would just replace it. You might need to adjust the bypass so that it closes tightly. If your glass is gunking up at an edge, it could be due to a leaking door or window gasket. Sometimes it's hard to tell which one it is, though. You can only use silicone on the door gasket/frame. It won't hold up on the bypass or other areas that get real hot.
 
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Woody Stover said:
I would get the OEM kit, either from woodmanspartsplus or from the dealer. That way, you know all the gaskets are the correct density and formulation. You might just do the door gasket for now, and others if needed in the off-season. For sure, I would do the bypass gasket at some point. They get packed with fly ash. You might be able to just fluff the bypass gasket and vacuum it to restore some pliancy, but if it's been a long time I would just replace it. You might need to adjust the bypass so that it closes tightly. If your glass is gunking up at an edge, it could be due to a leaking door or window gasket. Sometimes it's hard to tell which one it is, though. You can only use silicone on the door gasket/frame. It won't hold up on the bypass or other areas that get real hot.
Click to expand...
Sounds good. The door gaskets are tight. Any fouling on the glass nowadays is due to me throwing on some less than seasoned wood on occasion.
 
I finally got around to trying to order the Jotul gasket kit from Woodmans Parts Plus. They wanted almost $18 for shipping - even though USPS 2 day Priority would be about $6.50 (I know, I ship stuff every day). I do not buy from people who play games with "shipping".

So, I went by the local dealer for the first time in eight years. It came as a surprise to him that such a thing was offered. He agreed it would be a convenient thing to have. Fortunately, he has the same gasket material Jotul uses and I just bought it by the foot, plus some cement. It came out about the same price as the kit, but without the "shipping". The grey gasket material sourced through Jotul looks like a better quality product than what you get from Rutland; but appearances can be deceiving and I really have no way of knowing.

Since I zipped through the procurement process in a mere six weeks, I expect to have it installed right away. October at the latest. When I clean the glass again.
 
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