Chimney Ideas? Totally new to this.

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HotEmber

New Member
Jan 26, 2016
5
TN
So I'm 21, a married college student attempting to build a 650 sq ft tiny house for my wife and I. I fell in love with the idea of using a wood burning stove for heating, and finally bit the bullet on buying a country hearth 2000 for $300.

Now, as I am looking into the price of stove pipe and chimney pipe it's ridiculous. Not only that but I'm unsure of what I need, or what the necessities are. The home will be two stories, and I would like to run vertically though the second floor and through the roof. that distance is probably around 13-15 ft.

Now to re-iterate, I'm married and in college, so I'm broke. I originally had the dumb idea that the chimney would be easy to install and around $200; I was wrong. If there is anyway to run this cheap...let me know.

I've done a ton of research on both this fourm and the internet, and created this account to get a more specific answer.
 
Well first off you do realize that stove is going to cook you out of 600 sqft. You also need to factor in the floor protection that stove needs a fair amount of protection there to i believe. To help you with a layout we would need more info. But the basics are you need connector pipe inside till you meet and ceiling or wall then you need to switch to chimney pipe. The connector pipe can be either single or double wall pipe. Single wall needs 18" to an unprotected surface and double wall needs 6". When you switch to chimney pipe you will need a support box and then what ever insulation shields or radiation shields are required by that pipe manufacturer. You may also need additional support brackets. Then you will need flashing a storm collar and a cap after you extend out the roof 3' or 2' above anything with in 10'
 
Any wood stove is going to take up a lot of room in your tiny house.
I just went the other way, I added on a 900 sq ft addition onto my 1200 sq ft house, just so I could have a good place to put my new wood stove.
I am trying out Big House living, and I like it.
 
In regards to floor protection, could I just lay tile down around the stove? What would be most effective?

Also, I understood you had some control of the heat output of your stove, but realized it was going to be more than what we needed. Do you think it will be that bad?
 
Floor protection varies among the stoves, so you should find out what is required for your stove. Some stoves require only a non-combustible floor, but other stoves deliver more heat to the floor so they require a floor with a certain R value between the stove and the floor. This might require tile plus some non-combustible material that provides insulation, such as cement board.

In any case, tile floor needs a very firm support or the tiles will crack, especially with a heavy stove on the floor.
 
Basically you want to heat a 320 foot square first floor with a wood heater. It is hard for the heat to go up a normal staircase and tiny houses usually have tiny staircases, if not weird ladder things with hatches.
You will be hard pressed to find a good wood stove that will not blow you out of such a small space.
 
The first priority here is to advise on how to install the chimney safely. Short-term cheap savings are worthless if it costs a life or causes injury. The chimney is containing very hot flue gases. It must be done safely.

It's not uncommon for the chimney to cost more than an inexpensive stove. Menards often has the best prices of chimney. You might also look for used chimney (in excellent condition only). I agree that the stove is large for the space, but the price is right. Maybe consider selling the stove for a profit and installing a vented propane heater instead? The installation costs should be much less, the heat is more controllable and it will save a lot of floor space.

Another thought would be to learn how to build in a custom rocket heater into the space with a built in bench warmer.
 
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The first priority here is to advise on how to install the chimney safely. Short-term cheap savings are worthless if it costs a life or causes injury. The chimney is containing very hot flue gases. It must be done safely.

I can't agree more. I read an expression somewhere "Stepping over a dollar to save a dime" or something to that effect. Saving money by skimping one one of the most important parts is asking for trouble. How much to replace a burnt down 650 square foot house just one time? Spending money on chimney pipe isn't sexy, but don't skimp there.
 
first, welcome to the forum...and good on you for going to school and trying to build a house. its not easy. this is a great place for info. you're right, pipe is expensive. you can't really do that on the cheap. an option might be a block chimney. you could use the clay liner and then brick or block it. since you build, you might have the skills or you might have a friend that might be able to help. i thought about doing one for my installation but my double wall, through the basement wall and up the side of the house is doing fine for now. good luck.
 
So just to update, I found some used pipe on craigslist. Two 36 inch triple wall galvanized pipe with a stainless steel center. No insulation, just air gaps, good enough for 2 inch clearence.

This should be enough for me to run upstairs, but what type of pipe do I run from the roof? Another ad list new stainless steel 36in and 24 in for $120, triple wall insulated. I was thinking if I need it, it's there.

Also, could I paint the galvanized pipe black with high temp stove paint? Just for aesthetic reasons.
 
The new pipe and the rest of the chimney components need to be the same brand. It's ok to paint the pipe with hi-temp stove paint but note that chimney pipe running up the interior of the house (except for the attic) can not be left raw, it must be enclosed (chased) within the 2nd floor room. To determine how much chimney pipe total is needed note that as it exits through the roof it will need to follow the 10-3-2 rule. The chimney must end at least 3' above the roof and at least 2' above any portion of the roof within 10'.
10-3-2 rule.JPG

To save a bit of cash the new pipe can be exterior galvanized too.
http://www.woodstovepro.com/store/Chimney-Pipe-Venting-Pipe/Wood-All-Fuel-Piping/6-inch-c154/
 
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When I run the pipe, would there not be a ceiling adapter to go from the arched ceiling to the rooftop? I could run 1 kind of triple wall to the adapter then another triple wall on the rooftop. Wouldn't the adapter take care of any conversions?
 
When I run the pipe, would there not be a ceiling adapter to go from the arched ceiling to the rooftop? I could run 1 kind of triple wall to the adapter then another triple wall on the rooftop. Wouldn't the adapter take care of any conversions?
No it all needs to be the same there is no way to adapt between the 2. And make sure that uninsulated triple wall is high temp pipe most of it is not and is not for use with wood stoves
 
No it all needs to be the same there is no way to adapt between the 2. And make sure that uninsulated triple wall is high temp pipe most of it is not and is not for use with wood stoves

That really stinks, I drove 2 hours away to pick this metal-fab pipe up, and honestly I'm frustrated I won't be able to use it.

It's it okay condition, the outer walls are a bit bent, and theres a tad bit of rust on them, nothing structural, just aesthetic. For these reasons I want to try to use them for above the roof. I mean could I not covert the triple wall back to 6
 
What temp is it rated for? do you have any of the required fittings for it?
 
i just have the two 36in lengths of pipe, nothing else. Could I run another brand of double wall to this metal-fab triple wall?

edit:

Okay, I've decided I'll just resell what I have and purchase duraplus triple wall for the upstairs run. Next question, what fittings or adapters will I need to connect the sinle wall stove pipe in the first floor to the triple wall duraplus on the second? Also, what adapter will I need for the arched ceiling on the second floor and coming out the roof?

Assuming I have all the pipe I need, what else would be involved?

Would a kit at Lowes like this have everything I need?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...himney-Stove-Pipe-Vent-Kit-6DP-KBSC/100115151

Thanks for all the help! Really really appreciate you guy!
 
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Sometimes it helps to just see pictures. I just did an install from basement through main area and out through roof.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/8-inch-pipe-and-chimney-installation-for-basement-stove.150128/

The DuraVent kit from HD that you linked to could work. You have to decide where you will be installing the support box. I installed in the floor joists (basement ceiling) and used the cathedral ceiling support kit. A cathedral ceiling support box allows the box and trim to work with the slanted ceiling. I also used double wall stove pipe for added safety and for reduced clearances (6 inches vs. 18). I used Selkirk Supervent products from Menards.com but I initially looked at the HomeDepot stuff.

The kit you referenced supposedly includes the chimney adapter, which adapts the chimney pipe to the stove pipe at the support box.

What else would be involved? Fasteners, tools (gloves, hammer, screwdriver, fasteners, saws, silicone/tar/hi-temp sealant, etc.).
 
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