Flashing stovepipe on a corrugated metal roof

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ATVriderINmass

ATVriderINmass

Member
Dec 21, 2007
113
Chelmsford, Ma
Hi guys..I'm new but have been reading here for months . I've have got alot of info here about installing the stove..I'm getting a englander 30 NCH from home depot.I have a mobile home with a 2/12 pitch cathedral ceiling with no attic space and a corrugated metal roof. I ask the stove dealer in my area about the flashing and he said that will be a tough job to do.and he didnt know what he would do. Any ideas? do i have to use the vented flashing cone that comes with the vent kit? not really sure how to seal the roof being that it is corragated..any help would be great...
 
Check with a metal roofing supplier. I have a delta rib metal roof and got mine from the company that I got the roof from. They are NOT cheap.
 
What year is the mobile home? Does it have vaulted ceilings? Is it a airplane truss system? Maybe some photos would help?

Edit/Addit: Unless your home is very large, won't this size stove make your home an oven?
 
It's a 1974 but its going on the side with the addition..it's built like a house on the addition side where the stove is going..I think it has 2x6 constuction on the ceilings. not sure how to put a photo on here..this was my first post..do i just drag and drop it in the reply box?
 
The mobile home has been completely gutted and done over ..just the 2 front rooms are 900 square ft with 10 ft ceilings ... it's completely open in the middle of them..then i have a in the wall fan to drag the air into the rest of the house..the whole place is about 2100 square ft..plus i will put the furnace fan on when the stove is on..I didn't want to get to small of a stove..like everyone says you can always build a small hot fire in a big stove ..right?
 
LOL... I was expecting a 14'x70' mobile... sounds like you did your homework and sized it right for your locale.
 
I'm wondering if i should put the vented flashing that came with the kit under the metal roofing instead of on top...that way it will lay flat on the support box...then i just have the problem of sealing around the boot...anyone have any ideas??
 
what about the flashing boot that comes in the kit...would you put that under the ribbed roof or on top?
 
I would forget the flashing that came with the kit.... I cut mine in half and used it as a snow diverter over the boot but only because I have a 8:12 pitch with pretty heavy snowfall
 
I thought you had to use that one that came with it so the heat in the support box would vent out...im not sure it will pass inspection if its not vented..
 
do you have a pic of your chimney flashing? or does anyone else have a pic of flashing on a metal roof? im just worried its gonna leak..i never did this before..
 
Its too dark to get a pic now, Ill try and get one in the morn when the sun gets around there
 
thanks alot...i was just looking at the flashing boot...im gonna have to cut a 18" round hole in the roof to slide that under and out the metal roof...sort of scary...lol i'm also thinking how im gonna get the englander 30 out of the back of my truck ,up the stairs and in the house...wow are those stoves heavy..they had to put it in with a fork lift. I'm sweating just thinking about it...lol
 
unless I am mistaken you will need a 2 inch space from combustables to the pipe I.E. framing and decking so i assume the kit has a bracket to hold it. if you can get another panel to match what you have you can cut the existing and mount the cone supplied bedded in a quality sealant I recomend a urethane based as opposed to silicone as sili seems to peel off of every surface in short order. Then take your new panel, cut it so that it reaches from the peak to the downslope edge of the flange on the cone and cut a U in it that leaves a 1-2 inch space between the edge of the panel and base of the cone.set the downslope edge in sealant and fasten and then fill the corrugations where they intersect the radius with the same sealant use your finger or a spoon to tool the sealant to assure a good bond and then put the pipe in and your rain collar. make sure you also caulk where the collar meets the pipe I know some will say thats a no brainer but I see a lot of leaks where sheetmetal guys don't do that step. I should have said at the begining that you need to locate your hole at least 6" from the edge of the roof panel. I hope my reply doesn't sound complicated as it took twice as long to type as would to do it. If you have any question feel free to pm me. Good luck; Sean
 
That looks similar to what I got from my roof suplier and works just fine, no leaks and no signs of melt down. Although I did seal all around the surface that meets the roof and around the top where it meets the pipe
 
That's pretty trick. Good idea.
 
I just screwed mine in between the ribs tried to force it down on top of the metal roof and used some roof sealer with the fiberglass in it sold in gallon cans at most home improvement stores works good not the best looking job but how often do you stand on your roof admiring your flashing around your pipes/vents?
I tried it because it would have meant a day or more without heat and it has been working and not leaking for about 4 years now
 
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