I really enjoyed all the info being shared in the "everything tundra/heatmax" thread that I figured I would start the same type of thread for the Max Caddy. Seems like many of the same people follow both threads but still would be nice to keep things seperated. I will be purchasing a Max in the near future so I am sure I will have many questions. Thanks in advanced for all your help.
Everything Max Caddy
- Thread starter Builderml
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
OK so my first question is. How did you guys come up with your duct size off of the plenum? I don't see much listed in owners manual aside from .2 static pressure is a minimum. I think some have an 8x18 trunk what made you go with that size? I believe the heatpro calls for minimum 168 sqin opening. Did you pick a fan speed lets say 1400 cfm and design from that? For example 1400 cfm at .2 static pressure will require a certain size trunk.
Last edited:
humm, on my side nothing was calculated or planned, the duct contractor came to take some measure and came back with everything he needed to connect the caddy to the existing duct that was already here for the oil furnace... I have damper for every outlet that are going out of the main duct, so I closed them all a bit until I read 0.2 on the first speed... i don't think the contractor calculated something because he didn't had a clue about what was static pressure... I have posted picture of the duct works in another max caddy thread here, if you can't find them i will post them here if you want.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Hey @Builderml , you figured it out, good job! Now you get to try to keep all us minions on topic! 
signing on...
signing on...
Seeing how i copied your idea i think its only fair that you assume responsibility for this thread..Hey @Builderml , you figured it out, good job! Now you get to try to keep all us minions on topic!
signing on...
@lexybird , can you check for me in Heat mode, when you call for Electric, which speed do you think it start at: 2 or 4 ?
I'm having lot of fun with SBI tech about that... I say 2 and he say 4 with my wiring wrong, even with my video in Circ mode and picture of the wiring...
Waiting for what you say :- )
I'm having lot of fun with SBI tech about that... I say 2 and he say 4 with my wiring wrong, even with my video in Circ mode and picture of the wiring...
Waiting for what you say :- )
lexybird
Minister of Fire
I run a 10" and a 8" round elbowed off a small plenum off the top of the unit . going approx 4 feet over into my large oil furnace plenum . It's not ideal but my low ceiling and obstructed space required less than ideal duct layout and I had to make it fit . Fortunately this hasn't hindered the heating ability in the home .
lexybird
Minister of Fire
I don't have electric installed in it I use the wood only setup I can measure what temperature the fan switches . But I'm not real handy with testing using meters lol not an electrical guy
Yesterday i've cleaned the barometric damper, HX, flue pipe. Then added a key damper and a tape to block 2/3 of the secondary air input and I having more heat output.. I can go above 140F when Tstat call for heat and I can stay near 115F when idle... Flue temp is also higher a bit...
I will probably do another time lapse and compare results... for now El Nino is bringing lot of natural heat up here, I can't go full load...
Picture of the baro full of creosote...
I will probably do another time lapse and compare results... for now El Nino is bringing lot of natural heat up here, I can't go full load...
Picture of the baro full of creosote...
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
lexybird
Minister of Fire
maple1
Minister of Fire
My baro used to look something like that at times - but not quite as 'wet' looking, more the dry crumbly stuff you could knock off easily. And that was using a boiler that was about as inefficient a burner as you could design.
laynes69
Minister of Fire
What's on the baro won't necessarily represent the chimney. If there's been numerous cold starts, the smoke will condense where it's the coolest. Quicker starts or reloads will prevent alot of this, as well as good seasoned wood. I've found more creosote in my exchanger than my entire chimney. That's because it's the coolest area of the furnace. Every reload and cold start produces smoke until things get up to operating temperatures.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
That's interesting and very telling, IMO. Tells me you have unburned gasses going out the chimney and that's a source of inefficiency. I would not be happy if I saw that knowing the technology is there to burn cleaner than you are. It would also suck having to clean it, as creosote does not come off very easily. All that's ever in my HX (and chimney) is white/grey fly ash which can be simply vacuumed clean.
laynes69
Minister of Fire
As I said in my previous post, a cold start causes smoke, as well as reloads. I find almost nothing in my chimney. What I do get from my heat exchanger when I clean it is a cup or so depending on the weather. To pull a cup or two from a 32' chimney after a couple of months is far from being inefficient. Also the ability to place my hand on the fluepipe while theres zero smoke means alot. My furnace produces little to no smoke. I also have about $1800 in the entire system, furnace, ductwork and rigid liner, can't beat that. I am 1000% happy with my system and it heats my house 100% on little wood. Why would I be upset about that?
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
That's right, I totally forgot you got that thing for next to nothing. I see your point. You have a great setup for what you have in it.
I was just coming from my POV, as I know I wouldn't have been happy. I tend to get buyers remorse easy when not doing enough research into a particular item and finding out after the fact I could have had something better for roughly the same price or even a bit more. Or if I try to save $$$ on something I thought I could live with only to find out I am not happy with it after I purchased said item. If often costs me more $$ in the long run. I have learned to just suck it up and spend the $$$ on the item I really want and not to settle. I've purchased a few things years ago in which I "settled" on because the one I really wanted cost more than I wanted to spend. Well, when everything was said and done I ended up with the items I originally wanted only to spend even more $$$ at the end.
I was just coming from my POV, as I know I wouldn't have been happy. I tend to get buyers remorse easy when not doing enough research into a particular item and finding out after the fact I could have had something better for roughly the same price or even a bit more. Or if I try to save $$$ on something I thought I could live with only to find out I am not happy with it after I purchased said item. If often costs me more $$ in the long run. I have learned to just suck it up and spend the $$$ on the item I really want and not to settle. I've purchased a few things years ago in which I "settled" on because the one I really wanted cost more than I wanted to spend. Well, when everything was said and done I ended up with the items I originally wanted only to spend even more $$$ at the end.
Last edited:
Their was no 'wet' creosote other than the baro. I think it is because uninsulated basement cold air hits smoke from reloading like Laynes was saying.
My wood is one year dry (cut last winter, split and stack in April) most of the split are 18 to 20% inside... not more than 20%.
That baro door was half open most of the time to keep draft at 0.07, and it was with 3 washers on the weight... now I added a key damper, removed washers and i'm at 0.05 with baro opening a bit times to times...
I used a rotative stainless brush that fit on a drill to clean the baro door, most of the creosote went away with a flat screwdriver.
My wood is one year dry (cut last winter, split and stack in April) most of the split are 18 to 20% inside... not more than 20%.
That baro door was half open most of the time to keep draft at 0.07, and it was with 3 washers on the weight... now I added a key damper, removed washers and i'm at 0.05 with baro opening a bit times to times...
I used a rotative stainless brush that fit on a drill to clean the baro door, most of the creosote went away with a flat screwdriver.
Last edited:
maple1
Minister of Fire
OK - I didn't really mean it was wet, but rather it just looked that way in the pic. Shiny like, in places. As opposed to the flat black fluffy type stuff.
laynes69
Minister of Fire
I didn't "settle", I bought exactly what I wanted. The previous furnace would fill a 5 gallon bucket of creosote in a month at times, and it consumed more than twice the wood I do now. There's nothing magic about the Kuuma, it's controlled by a computer. You feel just because a furnace isn't computer controlled, it's not efficient. What's a few grams of smoke equate to in wood consumption, not much. The Caddy line of furnaces are very efficient, and offer the long clean burns that the competitors offer.That's right, I totally forgot you got that thing for next to nothing. I see your point. You have a great setup for what you have in it.
I was just coming from my POV, as I know I wouldn't have been happy. I tend to get buyers remorse easy when not doing enough research into a particular item and finding out after the fact I could have had something better for roughly the same price or even a bit more. Or if I try to save $$$ on something I thought I could live with only to find out I am not happy with it after I purchased said item. If often costs me more $$ in the long run. I have learned to just suck it up and spend the $$$ on the item I really want and not to settle. I've purchased a few things years ago in which I "settled" on because the one I really wanted cost more than I wanted to spend. Well, when everything was said and done I ended up with the items I originally wanted only to spend even more $$$ at the end.
lexybird
Minister of Fire
I'm also 1000% satisfied with my caddy and it heats my house 100% . I paid a good but fair price for my max .but I got a great furnace too . So far I think it's fair to say It was one of the best choices I have made financially in a long time
With the weather this year there is probably double the cold starts than a typical winter. Not saying you have wet wood, but 1 year wood is on the wetter side of dry wood. Especially if there's oak in there. I think what you have is fine and will get better with any of the 3, drier wood, normal winter, getting used to using the unit. (They all have a learning curve.)
Laynes that is a smoken deal, I'm a bit jealous.
My ductwork cost me a grand and that was at cost with me installing it. 
I love a good deal.
- Status
Similar threads
