PE Alderlea/Summit. Your thoughts ??

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bbc557ci

Member
Dec 25, 2007
220
Central NY State
Over the past few weeks I've checked out several wood stoves. Yesterday I took an up close look at a Pacific Energy Alderlea T6, and I'm looking for input from Alderlea T6/Summit users. Or, those who maintain and or sweep the chimneys for Alderlea owners.

Overall the stove looks to be of good quality and has some features I really like, such as the cast swing outs on top of the stove. Looking inside I noticed the T6 has a different 2ndary burn set up than what I’ve seen. Other stoves I’ve looked at have about 4 SS tubes spanning E/W at the top of the fire box. At the top of the fire box it looks like the T6 has a SS plate. There are two rows of holes E/W at the front of the plate. And a single row of holes N/S down the center. Will this type of secondary be as affective as the multiple tube type? Also, how much of an overnight burn could I expect from a T6 ?

Thoughts and comments from those in the know would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks !!
 
bbc557ci said:
Over the past few weeks I've checked out several wood stoves. Yesterday I took an up close look at a Pacific Energy Alderlea T6, and I'm looking for input from Alderlea T6/Summit users. Or, those who maintain and or sweep the chimneys for Alderlea owners.

Overall the stove looks to be of good quality and has some features I really like, such as the cast swing outs on top of the stove. Looking inside I noticed the T6 has a different 2ndary burn set up than what I’ve seen. Other stoves I’ve looked at have about 4 SS tubes spanning E/W at the top of the fire box. At the top of the fire box it looks like the T6 has a SS plate. There are two rows of holes E/W at the front of the plate. And a single row of holes N/S down the center. Will this type of secondary be as affective as the multiple tube type? Also, how much of an overnight burn could I expect from a T6 ?

Thoughts and comments from those in the know would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks !!
Click to expand...

Pacific energy has a bit of a different way of doing their secondary burn. Instead of the tubes under a refractory baffle, they use a hollow stainless steel baffle, drilled to allow the heated air to enter the combustion area.
AFAIK, it works as well as the tubes, and is easier to remove for cleaning.

If the baffle has been in place for a while, you'll need to replace a small gasket before you re-install the baffle. The gasket costs $3.

Being able to easily remove the baffle is especially handy if you have a stovepipe that runs straight up from the stove, and out through the roof. Simply remove the baffle and run the chimney brush straight down into the stove. Keep the door on the stove closed and the air control on "L" while doing this, to eliminate the chance of soot coming into the house when pushing the brush down.

The above is done when the stove is cold, usually @ the end of the heating season (spring).
 
Several Jotuls use this type of secondary air feed as well
 
I'm new to wood stoves, but considering how hot things get in there. I'm kind of glad my Summit has a alot of metal in the secondary air system.
 
The PE website describes the Stainless as "baffle, insulation cover, and flame shield". I understand that the ceiling of the firebox is SS, but is there insulation above it? I'm just curious about the design.

(Edit: This page has a diagram of the PE baffle; there's no insulation: http://www.missouristove.com/news/0/0/mApFf/pacific_energy_freestanding_woodstoves.html)

Also, the small Century at Lowe's has an SS secondary manifold. It's welded box stock, maybe 1x1.5", in a T shape with the bottom of the T poking out the back of the firebox.
 
The insulation comes out with the baffle as an assembly, it's kind of built in to the top of the baffle and covered by a stainless steel "insulation cover".
Once the baffle assembly is removed, you can see right up the flue.
 
Jimbob - The saleman mentioned that to me when I went to look at the T6. Said it was easy to get in and out when needed. Sounds like a good feature for chimney cleaning.
 
If you love the shape and look of the Aldera you can't lose; it is a great stove. Depending on your BTU requirements, the T5 looks the same but is just a bit smaller. As long as you have the proper chimney for this stove it will make you very HAPPY!
 
I do like the looks of the T6, and the features too. Wife also likes it. That's a plus, as you married guys can appreciate LOL.

Think I can get it local and won't need to travel 140 miles one way for it. Local shop will need to order it, none in stock. I should have a price and availability Wednesday. If the local guy is in the ball park price wise, at this point I think I will pull the trigger on a T6. Now I'm starting to get psyched :eek:)

Handle is on the left. For me handle on the right would be better. I think to get the handle on the right is a special order deal. Takes more time and likely more $$. When I looked at the stove the other day (during my road trip), it looked like the hinges and handle can be moved to make it a right handle door. Anyone done that, or attempted it ? Is it doable ?
 
The original Alderlea design called for a "field reversable" door handle, but the final version isn't. We field-reversed one of the early versions, and won't ever do it again: the hinge pins are loctited in, and we could only get one of them out, so we had to cut the other one off and use a substitute for the other side. Then, something we hadn't thought of: the handle wouldn't work. Had to order a "right-side" handle, which took just as long as it would have to have ordered the stove with a right-hand handle in the first place.
 
Check Tom's price (prior post) he didn't tell you but he can ship you that stove the way you want it.
As far as the handle is concerned, if your installation would work better with the handle on the other side, it might be better to wait a little for the right thing than to be inconvenienced forever by the wrong thing. (deep down inside, you knew that)
I've been looking and the Aldera T-6 was one of our choices, we can't get a new unit in until Spring now. I also like the Hearthstone's as well, esp. that Equinox - it will heat a castle and save wood while doing it!
What about the chimney? You'll need the correct draft to pull through that stove......
 
BeGreen said:
Do an advanced search for "Summit secondary" in the Perfect Pictures forum to see how effective the Summit's secondary burn is. It's a nice light show. Also, did you look at the Canadian video? That's a Summit they are using for the demonstration.

Here are some links for starters:
Roospike's slideshow -
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/3641/

Canadian video:
http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1
Click to expand...

Ya know, that's the first time I saw that Canadian video. AWESOME. Just might finally make me try the top down method next time. All thoughout I kept thinking, Wow, how did PE manage to get their stove highlighted in this government sponsored video. Then in the credits I see the name John Gulland. And I had to laugh about how he played a woodstove "newbie". He's forgotten more about woodstoves than most people will ever know.
 
Yes, and his personal stove is a PE.
 
ecked_word">Willhound</SPAN> said:
ecked_word">BeGreen</SPAN> said:
Do an advanced search for "Summit secondary" in the Perfect Pictures forum to see how effective the Summit's secondary burn is. It's a nice light show. Also, did you look at the Canadian video? That's a Summit they are using for the demonstration.

Here are some links for starters:
ecked_word">Roospike's</SPAN> ecked_word">slideshow</SPAN> -
ecked_word">http</SPAN>://ecked_word">www</SPAN>.hearth.com/ecked_word">econtent</SPAN>/index.ecked_word">php</SPAN>/forums/ecked_word">viewthread</SPAN>/3641/

Canadian video:
ecked_word">http</SPAN>://ecked_word">www</SPAN>.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1
Click to expand...

Ya know, that's the first time I saw that Canadian video. AWESOME. Just might finally make me try the top down method next time. All thoughout I kept thinking, Wow, how did PE manage to get their stove highlighted in this government sponsored video. Then in the credits I see the name John Gulland. And I had to laugh about how he played a woodstove "newbie". He's forgotten more about woodstoves than most people will ever know.
Click to expand...

Why doesn't the guy ever show up here? Seems like he has lots of knowledge to share?
 
Well I went and dun'it. I ordered a PE T6 from a local supplier just a few miles from me. He said the stove might be here by the week end :eek:)

I printed a copy of the Installation/user's guide and see on pg. 14 that the stove can be set on a combustible surface. Holy Cow !!! That sounds nutz. I plan to build a raised hearth about 8-10 inches high with 3/4 ply, durarock, then tile or stone..... not exactly sure which yet. Regardless, the stove will be available long before I'm ready to install it.

Now I need to line up chimney material. I'm thinking Metalbestos Platinum. I don't want any rust on the outside.

Anyways, thank you all very much for the advice and for answering all my questions.

I'll be back with more questions I'm sure LOL. Hopefully after I'm a more "seasoned" (pun intended) burner, I can help a noob out like you have helped me.

Thanks again
 
Read the whole parragraph:
The stove may be installed on a combustible floor provided noncombustible ember protection is used.

In other words if the wood floor has a layer of durock or tile or even a sheet of metal on it for a hearth, it's ok. That's because very little heat is radiated downward and the primary issue is to catch any falling embers. Your plan for a raised hearth should be fine.
 
"provided noncombustible ember protection is used" I read that part. I thought it meant something like a non combustible rug or similar. Steel, durarock or tile, as you mention makes much more sense.

Wish I had the stove in now. It's about 8* and a "nice" breeze, and the LP furnace is going like crazy :eek:(
 
Don't forget to send some pictures when its in: you will most likely be in your underwear its going to be so warm!!(LOL)
 
swestall said:
Don't forget to send some pictures when its in: you will most likely be in your underwear its going to be so warm!!(LOL)
Click to expand...

1st, sorry for the Llooong post ....................

Yesterday afternoon with the help of a friend's son (son is into weight lifting and benches in the 280-320 lbs range), and my nephew (US Army drill Sargent) and one of his friends (works for a logger and part time bouncer at a local watering hole) "I" (LOL) got the Alderlea T6 in. Needless to say, at just shy of 57 years old and at 185 pounds, I was the whimp of the crew. No matter as I had plenty of muscle on hand. Ah, to be young again :eek:)

It was about 12* outside and the stove sat outside in the bed of my pick up for about 36 hours, and when I went to put the fire bricks in, some were frozen together. So I let the stove sit for an hour or two before lighting it up. I fired the T6 up for the 1st time last night about 7 pm. About 8* and very windy outside and the stove/brick were still very cold. I had a tough time getting/keeping a fire going without leaving the door open a crack. Then after about an hour or so of messing around with it, the fire took hold and started to burn pretty good. So I played around with the air supply and got the top of the stove to about 650-700 degrees. When the paint smell came on I opened a window upstairs, and a window down stairs near the stove. I let it burn hot for about an hour or so with the windows open. Smoke detector went off so I temporarily disconnected it. After a while the paint smell subsided and I closed the windows. About 10 pm I loaded the stove up with a combination splits of about 2x4" and 3x6". Opened the air supply all the way for about 1/2 hour - 45 minutes, then moved the air supply lever to about 20% (gestimate) open, and went to bed. Got up about 8 a.m. today (have the day off, exhausted, so I slept in) and the stove was at about 250* with enough hot embers to get another fire going :eek:)

At around 8 this am it was about 8* outside. I put in 5 smalls about 2x2 n/s. Then 3 mediums e/w. Then 3 larger splits n/s. At present outside it's 14* with a "nice" breeze going on. Right now the T6 is crusing at about 450 degrees. The thermostat in my office/dining room says 74*. Living room where the stove is located is definitely warmer. The kitchen located at the opposite side of the house from the stove feels +,- about the same temperature as the office/dining room.

FYI; for safety/clearance/code stuff I put 2 45's in the stove pipe for proper clearence from the front of the stove to the front end of the hearth. From the 45's (on top of the stove) there is about 9 feet of stove pipe to the support box (cathedral ceiling 9.5/12 roof pitch). The support box hangs down about 18 inches from the ceiling, where the double wall chimney begins its transition through the 2 x 12 ceiling rafters. There is about 10 feet of double wall extending up from the roof. Then of course the cap.

Needless to say, I am really pleased as all hell about the way things are going so far. I mean, I am stink'n happy :exclaim: :) And I want to say thank you again, to all of you on this forum who answered my questions, and offered your good advice.

Bill
 
I.d be careful going to bed with the stove air left open to any degree. The Summit I have likes to run hot. I shut the air down to all the way low and still achieve 700+ degree temps. Don't want that fine stove overfiring. ;)
 
There you go; and I bet you are in your shorts too!!!!!
 
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