2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

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So I checked the door gasket. Tight as possible.

The bypass held the dollar bill but it wasn't really snug. I could slide it back out. Is that bad?
 
Not bad if you can pull it out with a little effort, just bad if it slides around like no one's business.
 
Okie dokie. I'll just pay attention next fire and see how it goes. It's kind of warm so we are conserving wood. ;)
 
All this talk about wives grumbling when it gets above 75 or so has got me jelous. My wife likes it near 80 and watches the stove like a hawk. I swear she can hear that thermostat shut from the shower.

Yup. When my house gets below 80dF the wife is on the phone with her mother surfing realtor dot com together looking at houses in California.
 
Yup. When my house gets below 80dF the wife is on the phone with her mother surfing realtor dot com together looking at houses in California.
Fast forward 6 months and mine will be roasting if the ac is set at 74 though she like that around 70. I've quit trying to figure it out.

Although she does top out about 76~78 in the stove room for comfort before a window gets cracked.
 
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We had the heat set on the furnace at 68. It's economical so I tolerate it. My wife said she preferred it. The stove has changed it. Usually the stove gets the house to around 71-75. If we don't run the stove my wife has said that j was right and warmer is better. ;)
 
We had the heat set on the furnace at 68. It's economical so I tolerate it. My wife said she preferred it. The stove has changed it. Usually the stove gets the house to around 71-75. If we don't run the stove my wife has said that j was right and warmer is better. ;)

As humans we acclimate to our reasonably moderate surroundings within a couple weeks. If you are disciplined enough to keep the house below 70 with wood after a long time of 68 with the furnace then you shouldn't get complaints. You can slowly creep up, intentionally or not, and end up at 80 degrees as the norm without complaints if you really want to but then you are a weirdo. You will always be cold at other peoples' houses, always feel colder when you go outside, go through more wood, etc.

It's just so easy and feels so good to be a degree or two warmer than it was last week.
 
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My wife starts groaning any time I get the house above 73F with the stoves.
Yeah, 72 is OK with me, I just have to peel down to a tee shirt. I usually have warm pants on; 73 is too hot. 95 would be full-monty time. ==c But webby3650,
is that thermostat wall picking up radiation from the stove?
 
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Yeah, 72 is OK with me, I just have to peel down to a tee shirt. I usually have warm pants on; 73 is too hot. 95 would be full-monty time. ==c But webby, is that thermostat wall picking up radiation from the stove?

Why hasn't this turned into a thread of people getting their living rooms to 100 degrees, sitting on folding chairs, and sipping blended rum drinks ?

(My excuse is that it sounds like work and I'm too tired for all that.)
 
Why hasn't this turned into a thread of people getting their living rooms to 100 degrees, sitting on folding chairs, and sipping blended rum drinks ?

(My excuse is that it sounds like work and I'm too tired for all that.)


Because this thread is about the performance of the stoves, not the crazy owners :shrug:
 
My family/stove room about 10' from the stove gets into the upper 70's but that keeps most of the main level in the upper 60's/low 70's, upstairs where the bedrooms are is typically in mid to lower 60's how we like it for sleeping. Before my stove days my daytime temps were 66, 60 for sleeping. I would keep the whole house at 68 if I could but 68 in the stove room would make for a really cold house everywhere else!
 
So I got a fire going again tonight and I am still having troubles. Firebox is plenty hot. Having to run to fan full speed to keep the temp of the cat down from max. Yet when I turn the tstat down, the flames aren't going out.

I know the door seal is really solid. Bill test was super tight. I just don't know what changed.

I mean, previously the stat was like magic. Turn up, flames up, turn down flames down.

Now it's working but much much more slowly.
 
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I mean, previously the stat was like magic. Turn up, flames up, turn down flames down.

Now it's working but much much more slowly.

If you get the room as quiet as you can (turn off the fan for a minute) and turn the thermostat from wide open to fully closed, do you hear the flapper clink shut? Also, check the knob and make sure it's actually turning the shaft when you turn it.
 
So two things. It eventually does catch up, so I might just be paranoid.

But also, no I don't hear a clink. But the knob is turning.
 
So two things. It eventually does catch up, so I might just be paranoid.

But also, no I don't hear a clink. But the knob is turning.

'clink' is maybe not good word for it... 'flump' perhaps? :) It's not a super quiet noise on my stove... hard to miss if you are listening for it. I think you'd have heard it if you quieted down the room and everything was in order.

Gonna defer the diagnosis to someone with more experience but that sounds like it might be an issue.
 
So I got a fire going again tonight and I am still having troubles. Firebox is plenty hot. Having to run to fan full speed to keep the temp of the cat down from max. Yet when I turn the tstat down, the flames aren't going out.

I know the door seal is really solid. Bill test was super tight. I just don't know what changed.

I mean, previously the stat was like magic. Turn up, flames up, turn down flames down.

Now it's working but much much more slowly.

There is no max temp on the cat meter, it's either active or not. No reason to worry about the needle going too high. Bk assures us that the stove is designed not to overtemp itself or the cat.

The inserts have weird linkages and cables for the bypass and stat so I can't say just how to check it.

If your door gasket is tight then just let the stove work. Room too hot? Turn it down. Be glad you get to see flames, so often our stoves are dark inside.
 
So I got a fire going again tonight and I am still having troubles. Firebox is plenty hot. Having to run to fan full speed to keep the temp of the cat down from max. Yet when I turn the tstat down, the flames aren't going out.

I know the door seal is really solid. Bill test was super tight. I just don't know what changed.

I mean, previously the stat was like magic. Turn up, flames up, turn down flames down.

Now it's working but much much more slowly.

New cat? Will be a little overactive. When my stove was new I could get the fire roaring then slam the thermostat shut and the needle on the active thermostat would stay at about the 4 or 5 o'clock position for hours. I miss that!

If you are running your fan wide open it will actualy cool the firebox causing the thermostat to stay more open. This will result in flames at a lower thermo setting. You will also loose that "gas stove" instant flame, instant black effect that you see when making a big adjustment of the thermostat without the fan running.
 
Hey guys i got a question, Id like to tighten my front door as the dollar bill test is a lil loose.
My king has a bolt in front and back. But my front bolt does not want to turn at all only the back one. I dont want to apply any more pressure as i feel il snap the bolt right off. The back bolt is easy and comes right off. I can take the whole latch out and i use a 2 wrenchs to try to losten the front bolt, but don t wanna snap it. Since i can not losten the front bolt i can not make the latch move in more to tighten up the door. This is actually the second time this has happpened. The first one when the stove was new did the same thing exact thing about 1 1/2 year of use. Now 1 1/2 years later the new one is doong the same exact thing. Am doing something wrong?
image.jpeg
 
Nut on the inside may be welded to the stove body.(mine is this way). I had similar issues with mine the first time I adjusted mine. I worked the latch bolt back and forth carefully and got the latch out. I then cut the frozen nut off the latch, ran a die over threads to clean up them up and used a new nut. Put anti-seize on the pieces before putting it back together.
 
Back bolt is not welded at all. I can take the whole assembly out of the stove its the front bolt in the picture that wont spin. Is this a normal thing that happens as im 2 for 2.
 
Back bolt is not welded at all. I can take the whole assembly out of the stove its the front bolt in the picture that wont spin. Is this a normal thing that happens as im 2 for 2.

Just cut the nut off, clean up the thread on the latch bolt, get a new nut and use anti-seize. Shouldn't have trouble after that.
 
Ok, just wanted to make sure i was not doing something wrong.
 
Depending on your skills and your reliance on this stove, it might be worth ordering a new latch and nut, so as to not risk downtime if things don't go right while repairing this one. Shouldn't be more than a few dollars, I'd guess.
 
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