There are a lot of factors that affect draft. Metal round chimneys draft the strongest. If one has a straight up 2+ story chimney it is going to pull hard. A 3 story chimney very often will need a damper to reduce draft, maybe even 2.
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That is not always an option. There are a lot of factors for purchasing a stove. Often the chimney is installed after the stove is purchased. Very few folks place the draft as their primary consideration unless it's known that the chimney will be short. Then one specs a stove that breathes easily with a short chimney. Also note that in Hungary stoves are often not EPA phase II designs which can have stronger draft requirement.I am saying that each stove comes with specs on the draft for the chimney that should be used with that stove. Testing your current chimney draft and buying the stove that matches it is the best option.
Just sticking a stove to an existing chimney may not be a good match. If you need to consult with a chimney contractor who can help adjust your chimney draft to better match your stove.
Also, if you need to reduce the draft to prevent over firing, also check the manual of your stove, you may be adding too much wood. Sorry this comes as a "shock" to some, but yes, as I said above, not all stoves can be stuffed with wood to fire them under the manufactures design. Failure to read and follow the manual that comes with your stove and saying I am "wrong" will not change that.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
You can clearly see where the maximum burn time listed for the Oslo states "up to 9 hours".
semipro
Minister of Fire
Below is what you said and its incorrect.
Restricting the flow (i.e. closing the damper) on an overdrafting flue will not cause release of CO or smoke or anything else to the room.
Again, the stove operates under a vacuum created by the flue. The stove does not "force" smoke up the flue.
semipro
Minister of Fire
And I and many other Oslo users here can attest to burn times exceeding 9 hours.
I agree I easily get an overnight burn with a huge bed of glowing hot coals on the morning,when I load it up with oak before bed. Best stove I've ever owned.
St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
Jotul, Morso, et al all sell in Hungary. They are the same stoves as sold in the USA. Same specs as far as I have read from all international sites. But of course always willing to bow to evidence that corrects my own private research.
All new chimney must be insulated by law, also very modern here, under EU standards.
Yes, they are similar. Some of the Jotuls that sell in Europe have a different doghouse cover that admits more air to the fire. Our F400 came with both covers.
St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
That is fine.
But what I am saying is this: being able to do something is not the same as what the product was designed to do.
Again, lets us go to this manual:
Both an installation manual with technical data and a manual on general use and maintenance are enclosed with the product.
And then goes into how much to burn at a time (which I already posted on page 1 of this thread), and which is the general use for the product.
"General": as in typical, daily, expected, designed, etc. Burning constantly long burns is then not presented as general use. Maybe okay for occasional use, but not presented as a general use. So.... it might void the local warranty.
I have not contacted Jotul corporate for feedback on that, and so that is just my thinking. Maybe I am being anal, and if so, so be it. Personally I would rather walk and trot my horse then run it into the ground.
But it would be interesting to in fact do that (i.e. contact Jotul corporate in Norway for the final word).
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St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
Then that would probably be because air quality standards from wood burning are stronger here. (But apparently not from diesel engines).
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
You're not being anal, you're being an idiot and spreading bad information. The brochure I gave you the image of which states 9 hours is directly from Jotuls website.
St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
Um..... You do know that a brochure is just advertisement, right?
All sorts of cool and nice things can be said in an advertisement. If I drink certain drinks, according to the advertisements and brochures, I should have bikini clad women all over me.... until I read the find print (or the manual).
Personally, I question someone who uses a tool based on just the brochure, and did not read the manual. But again, hey, that is just me. Ride your horse how hard you wish, it is your horse.
And I assume that those that can not get a warranty repair on their tool because they followed your "it is in the brochure, forget reading the manual" advice, can expect to come to you get their tool replaced at your cost, since they followed your advise.
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claydogg84
Minister of Fire
There are probably 100 members of this forum that own an Oslo. All of which are almost definitely using the stove in its intended capacity of burning 8+ hours overnight. So, we're all using our stove incorrectly? Ride your horse back to whatever forum you came from.
In over 10 yrs of posting here there is a lot of empirical evidence that the Oslo is very capable or consistently achieving 8+ hr burn times without any stress on the stove. Burntime is basically a marketing term. It is too subjective to quibble about.
The OP is running the stove a bit hot and has been advised to adjust burning methods. What would be helpful is for other F500 owners to report their normal operating stove plate temps vs corner temps. That would provide the OP with a better frame of reference.
The OP is running the stove a bit hot and has been advised to adjust burning methods. What would be helpful is for other F500 owners to report their normal operating stove plate temps vs corner temps. That would provide the OP with a better frame of reference.
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semipro
Minister of Fire
I actually monitor our Oslo temps on the front face, upper left hand corner. There's a little flat area there where our thermometer fits nicely.
We regularly see temps of 550-600 degrees F there on the Oslo we've been using for about 8 years without adverse issue. I've confirmed those temps with an electronic IR thermometer.
We regularly see temps of 550-600 degrees F there on the Oslo we've been using for about 8 years without adverse issue. I've confirmed those temps with an electronic IR thermometer.
St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
The thought that the Jotul F500 is not meant to be run as a 24/7 heater is absurd. It is an "intermittent heater" meaning:
“Intermittent combustion” here means normal use of a stove.
"That is to say, if you want to continue producing heat, you add
more fuel as soon as the previous load of wood has burnt down
to embers."
“Intermittent combustion” here means normal use of a stove.
"That is to say, if you want to continue producing heat, you add
more fuel as soon as the previous load of wood has burnt down
to embers."
What are normal stove plate temps when the corner reads 500F?
Agreed with #1, though you might want to adhere to #4 while at it and it would be appropriate to use the USA/Canada manual when addressing an audience in those countries.
In the US and Canada wood stoves are often used to heat larger areas than in Europe. Burning practices are different.
semipro
Minister of Fire
semipro
Minister of Fire
saskwoodburner
Feeling the Heat
I agree, and I'd also like to add a few thoughts on draft. Your geographical area/wind patterns can also help (or hinder) draft, and a big one IMHO that doesn't get discussed enough, is outdoor temperature, and how that affects draft.
I'm not sure what part of Ontario the original poster is from, but I would like to say, 15 feet of chimney counts for more in a cold climate than it does in a warmer one.
St. Coemgen
Feeling the Heat
Now you are speaking my language.
Good logical point about the "audience" (but I do consider any web site having a global audience even if dominated by one or few countries).The US manuals are available here:
http://jotul.com/us/products/stoves/jotul-f-500-oslo#technical-area
Relevant sections there are 5.1 and 5.2 (they also suggest getting a CO detector, and I find smoldering burns are too easy to get during fully packed loadings with insufficient air).
Additionally, most modern wood heaters’ optimum performance and efficiency are at the medium to medium-low burn rates.
From experience both using Jotul stoves in the US and other brands in Europe, medium burn is easiest to get following the method in the international manual.
Side note: my larger stove is 80% efficient, and I typically get 3 hour burns 2.5 kg/hr of wood (ranges from 2 to 4 logs per load). And I never have to fiddle with air settings or checking temps. Just load in logs, and walk way for 3 more hours (or the wife does if I am not home). No overnight burns, house says warm enough (night temps rarely dip below -10C/14F). If I needed overnight burns, I would have gone with a pellet stove or biomass stove (basically any wood is run through a chipper and feed into the stove like pellets).
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Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
He's probably got that, heating from the basement.
Awesome, I'll never have to load the stove again, since I'll be burning in Hell!
Smoldering burns means too damp wood or improper operation. One should not see this with a properly run stove.
I typically load our stove with about 50 lbs of wood. It takes about 15-20 minutes to get that wood fully engaged and burning well so that I can turn down the air. After that the stove is not touched again for 8-12 hrs. depending on outside temperature. This heats all 2000 sq ft of our house very evenly. The fire never smolders. This stove has gone through 8 yrs of this type of burn cycle. We only do small, 15lb loads of wood in very mild weather, or when my wife is tending the stove.
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