Cutting UNIFORM length's for the spliter ?..................

I just wing it. Sometimes using the chainsaw bar as a guide. Usually its a question of y's and knots the determine the length of the round.

I use a marker and draw a line on the chainsaw bar 16" from the end. For my 12" bar it's the felling guide mark on the sprocket cover.

Perhaps I am anal or have too much time on my hands, but I have a "marker stick" which is the length I desire to have my splits. I then use a piece of chalk and walk down the log marking each length. Final cut leaves a short piece which (depending on how short) will be a chunk. This way when I cut my own logs they are all almost identical in length (I have taken to just cutting through knots etc). Sure makes it easier to stack even if it takes an extra swing or two to split the pieces.

I bought some wood this year cut and split - I think the uneven lengths alone make it worth doing my own cutting!

I made a simple marking "gauge" by taking a long deck screw (5") and a piece of string the length I wanted the bucks to be, then simply tied a yellow lumber crayon to the other end of the string. I bought a box of lumber crayons years ago from an online company and have only used 2 of the 12 that came in the box so far. This simple method works great as the lumber crayon will mark dry or wet bark, and all I have to do is cut a flush end on one side of the log and walk my way down and hold the deck screw and just swing the crayon to make a mark. The string allows me to go over the humps and bumps of the logs very easily. The marking gauge then goes in the front pocket of my carhart overalls so it is always close at hand.

Now I take it one step further (wife calls it OCD) - I actually make a slight saw cut at all of the crayon marks before bucking the log as I have found sometimes the sawdust from the previous cut can cover up the crayon marks.......

I have a few scraps of lumber cut to 20" length. Walk along log with my top-handle saw in the right hand, and the 20" measuring stick in my left, marking off the log. Before I had the top-handle saw, I used a hatchet or sidewalk chalk with the stick.

Another member (smokinj? Big Redd?) used to string a tape measure, and mark off the log with chalk, before they'd start bucking.

I have a marking stick right around 20" and I use a can of marking paint. I try to lay out the cuts around the knots and the y's. If they're that nasty I just leave them in the woods because I usually hand split.

Lots of options:

Mingo Marker
Quick Stix
Tap and Cut (make your own)
Draw a line on your bar at 16" (or whatever length you want)

Most of the time I just eyeball it after cutting the first couple lengths using the 16" mark on my chainsaw bar. Mingo Marker works great on straighter wood. I want to make a Tap and Cut because it looks very effective.

I've never tried the Quick Stix. Others have made their own variation by attaching them to the bar. Some use bolts and others have used magnets.

I use a black magic marker and a tape measure and measure every one 16 inches
times ten cord. . Really I use my 18" bar eyed up for 16" cuts knots and all. Do
the easiest way you can.

Cut a stick as long as you want the wood. Lay it on the log and just draw a short line with some chalk. Or you can buy a nice red marking stick which you can find in any Home Depot or that type of store. Some call them carpenter's markers.

Someone also on this forum made a unique marker using pvc. Made it into a T shape so it had a long handle to keep from having to bend. Picture the top of the T. Now near both ends of the T, cut a small slice with a hack saw so that you end up with a line about 1-2" or longer if your prefer. Fill the end of that with blue chalk and as you lay it on the log, a small amount of chalk come out. Then you just keep flipping the thing over and over making marks along the log. Seemed to work very well. I had thought about making one but have used a marking crayon for so long and it is very simple and easy. I would suggest painting the marking stick a bright red to keep from losing it.

Backwoods Savage said:

Someone also on this forum made a unique marker using pvc....

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You mean the Tap and Cut?

Tap n Cut for me. It's catching on with my friends.

I use marking paint and a tape measure. I tried the chalk and did not like it. I am getting little snobby and will turn up my nose at something cut to "firewood" length already. If it a log I can go in, mark and cut, I'll do it. I believe I have been through one can of marking paint (not gone yet actually) and changed out one tape measure in 3 years.

A Piece of scrap 1x or hardwood flooring and an axe or hatchet are how I been doing it for years. I'm cutting logs in my yard. I could see using a marked bar if I was out in the woods and not messing with keeping track of a 16" piece of scrap lumber.

paul bunion said:

A Piece of scrap 1x or hardwood flooring and an axe or hatchet are how I been doing it for years. I'm cutting logs in my yard. I could see using a marked bar if I was out in the woods and not messing with keeping track of a 16" piece of scrap lumber.

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I paint my measuring stick fluorescent orange, for that reason. I also always try to set it down next to my top-handle saw, which is my "marker".

TreePointer said:

You mean the Tap and Cut?

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Thanks. That is the one.

Joful said:

I paint my measuring stick fluorescent orange, for that reason. I also always try to set it down next to my top-handle saw, which is my "marker".

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I also paint my measuring stick orange and have had it for several years now. I put it up against the log and note where the end is, keep my eye on it, and keep the stick in my left hand as I cut.

TreePointer said:

Lots of options:

Mingo Marker
Quick Stix
Tap and Cut (make your own)
Draw a line on your bar at 16" (or whatever length you want)

Most of the time I just eyeball it after cutting the first couple lengths using the 16" mark on my chainsaw bar. Mingo Marker works great on straighter wood. I want to make a Tap and Cut because it looks very effective.

I've never tried the Quick Stix. Others have made their own variation by attaching them to the bar. Some use bolts and others have used magnets.

Click to expand...

Another option with good reviews is the Woodcutters Helper:

You could just lay a tape out on the ground, and the eye it up to the log I have done that before. If there are two of you there cutting one guy gets the tape the other the saw. Make a small cut by the length you want in all the wood you need processed. When it is all marked/ cut both of you grab a saw and go to town. Takes a little to get all marked out, but once done all wood is good and both can go at it.

Mingo marker

Sidewalk chalk and a free HF tape measure. Been meaning cut and paint florescent a reference stick for years. I really hate when a piece is just a little to long to go in north-south.

Ashful said:

Another member (smokinj? Big Redd?) used to string a tape measure, and mark off the log with chalk, before they'd start bucking.

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This is what I do. String a tape measure and measure 16'' with a lumber crayon. Couldn't be anymore simpler and takes about a minute or less per log.

trailrated said:

This is what I do. String a tape measure and measure 16'' with a lumber crayon. Couldn't be anymore simpler and takes about a minute or less per log.

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I have an 18" chainsaw bar and a stove that likes 18" wood, so that works out for me.

If you want everything the same length just build a simple frame with a piece of plywood or even a wide 1x board on one side. Stack all of the wood in it to touch that side then use your pre-measured reference, whatever you like, to make a consistent cut. Maybe you just cut everything about an inch from one of the vertical frame members for instance. Depending on how many rounds you can fit inside it will give you that many all at once. It can even be used to trim off splits that are too long.