Mt Vernon AE issues

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Fuel type (hardwood) Flame height (-2) Temp Dif (1.0 F) now the Bad TC fire pot code has appeared after stove has been in ready mode for 50 minutes. Going to heat up fire pot TC and test it.

Increase your flame height to +1 or +2, seems as though you keep losing POF.
 
A 5* variance to what? Another temp gauge? You can recalibrate the temp on wall control to match another gauge.
 
Flame looked good. Did you get a fire fairly fast? It went to sslow?These things are timed also for POF
 
When you had the firepot thermocouple out of the cover to test, did the end look good? No cracks in solder, or metal? Sometimes if the wires are bent too much when installing or removing a firepot thermocouple, it can crack the insulation on the wires, and it will cause the thermocouple to read wrong at times. If everything else is working and testing right, it may be time for a new firepot thermocouple. kap
 
Highest reading was -.022 mv on the fire pot TC, then the min fire pot temp code appeared briefly, then stove went into shutdown mode again. No codes yet. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
 
Yeah Kap, she started slow, went to start up then ss low, ss med. then I walked away. Then my wife said the thermostart displayed min fire pot temp. It went away, went to shutdown. Just checked and the Bad TC fire pot code made a brief appearance. Reset it....now it's clear. I think I'm going to order a fire pot TC and cover.
 
The cover would only be bad if it was cracked or end was broke off. It is hard sometimes to diagnose a stove over the internet with not being able to put hands on it. As far as I can see is possible, and cheapest route, is needing a new firepot thermocouple. It can get expensive just throwing parts at it. What is disturbing is a good thermocouple will read 15 mV or higher. kap
 
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I would say that is a good bet. LOL Looks like the wires were not put in the right position,and the auto-clean chewed em up. Good find!
 
Hey Kap, going to do the fire pot upgrade too, the studs for the fire pot are they removable? The new one shows replacements, but mine are pretty rusty. Do they drop down into the metal plate?
 
They are riv nuts. I would reuse them if you can get your bolts out. If you can't, you can chisel the riv nuts off and use just regular nuts and washers. It takes a special tool to install the riv nuts. Whatever you do, make sure to put some high temp anti-seize grease on the threads to make easy removal down the road. And you can modify your old pot to make it like a newer model. Just pm me your email address, and I will send you pics of what to do. kap
 
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The old bolts are done. Was hoping to hammer out the old ones. The new pot has the new studs, do they just drop in ?
 

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Google rivnut, and you will see what I am talking about. Like I posted above, you can just use a washer and nut with the new bolts. kap
 
I had a mount Vernon AE and it was a nightmare. I think everything was replaced at some point. It was always throwing codes and I was tired of waking up to a cold house. I sold it and replaced it with a jotul gas unit. Never been happier.
 
When they first came out, if you didn't have a good dealer, that didn't keep up with the updates, they were a royal pain in the backside. It was put on the market too soon, before all the bugs were worked out of it. I have an 06 model, and enjoy it very much. kap
 
When they first came out, if you didn't have a good dealer, that didn't keep up with the updates, they were a royal pain in the backside. It was put on the market too soon, before all the bugs were worked out of it. I have an 06 model, and enjoy it very much. kap

Mine was built in 2009 and I agree with you. On the other hand my classic bay 1200 built in 2002 runs like a champ and is still on its original igniter.
 
The one thing they seem to refuse to do, is deal with the igniter being on too long. That is why they burn out. kap
 
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