2015/2016 VC Owners thread

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OK, I took a closer look inside the box last time the stove burned down, trying to see why it's burning hotter in the right side. It looks here like the right end of the air wash (primary air manifold, part #16) might be warped. Hard to tell though, the air wash doesn't look straight in the diagram, and in the photo I took, the left side of the air wash looks wider as well. But in person, it appears that there's a bigger gap in the right side. I'll have to check it closer when I get the stove apart. Looks like an $80 part if I need it, but I may just be able to bend it or grind it to adjust the air distribution through the air wash.

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OK, I took a closer look inside the box last time the stove burned down, trying to see why it's burning hotter in the right side. It looks here like the right end of the air wash (primary air manifold, part #16) might be warped. Hard to tell though, the air wash doesn't look straight in the diagram, and in the photo I took, the left side of the air wash looks wider as well. But in person, it appears that there's a bigger gap in the right side. I'll have to check it closer when I get the stove apart. Looks like an $80 part if I need it, but I may just be able to bend it or grind it to adjust the air distribution through the air wash.
Normally its the left side that will burn hotter - when the gasket starts to go. As for the primary manifold, I gave ot a good look this morning. The bottom edge on mine is slightly lower (put a straightedge under it) and closer to the glass in the center. I slid drill bits in as thickness gauges. Center on glass is about 9/32. Both sides are a little over 1/4 inch from the metal front. Looking from front, the right side of mine is slightly tighter. That manifold seats on a gasket inside, so that could account for a little variation. I think this would have to be pretty far off to see a difference in the fire, as it really is not that precise.
 
I think this would have to be pretty far off to see a difference in the fire, as it really is not that precise.
I believe the excess air is definitely coming from the air wash; When I have fire in the front, right behind the glass, I can see the flame blowing toward the left side of the box.
 
Is the flapper tab bent in more ( not closing as far) on that side where the air goes in?
Curiously, it's the left flapper that is more open. :confused:
 
Curiously, it's the left flapper that is more open. :confused:

Hmm, not what I would have thought, but they should be even. I wonder... The air coming up the left IS directed toward the right. So maybe that maks sense??? If they are even, the meet in the middle and cancel to wash down. If one overpowers the other, not sure what happens.
 
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Hmm, not what I would have thought, but they should be even. I wonder... The air coming up the left IS directed toward the right. So maybe that maks sense??? If they are even, the meet in the middle and cancel to wash down. If one overpowers the other, not sure what happens.
Interesting idea. Of course, when the flaps are further open, the difference between them as a percentage is going to be lower, and they aren't all that much different, even when closed (I should have put "slightly more open" in the previous post.) ;em
 
How it going guys? Ive been away for a while cause work was really busy and it was too warm to burn for weeks. Back at it now and Ive been running full loads of oak and maple 3x a day since thu. The heat is crankin' but that's to the AT100 and a change of habits I have not had any high temp scares yet...

I'm slightly nervous to see how it handles extreme draft tonight with -10F and 45mph... I will be watching like a hawk to avoid an over fire.


How is everyone else doing?
 
On the coldest weekend of the season my stove is sitting idle. I planned a family ski trip for this weekend. Here I am looking out the window of my ski chalet, wind howling temp -30*C with windchill -44*C
I don't think we will be skiing today!!!

I think I will get a fire started in this....
Last night in 4hrs I went through 15 decent size "hissing" hardwood splits, with hardly any heat radiating into the house.
 

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A few years ago we stayed in a bed and breakfast cottage for a couple nights. The wood they provided was barely burnable. Second night they gave me a couple fake logs to burn... luckily it was not the only heat source.
 
Have needed to do some much needed gasket work but with it actually being cold out I have not been able to bring myself to let the stove go cold. Maybe next week when we see some mid 30 degree weather again.
 
Yup
I would not let the stove go cold in this weather by choice. It might not start again.....haha

Even if the stove helps (as it is a space heater only) the central heating system, it is usually a substantial help. I can usually keep my house comfortable using the stove only to temp around 32*F. Anything below that my stove needs help from the central NG system.
 
How it going guys? Ive been away for a while cause work was really busy and it was too warm to burn for weeks. Back at it now and Ive been running full loads of oak and maple 3x a day since thu. The heat is crankin' but that's to the AT100 and a change of habits I have not had any high temp scares yet...

I'm slightly nervous to see how it handles extreme draft tonight with -10F and 45mph... I will be watching like a hawk to avoid an over fire.


How is everyone else doing?
Hi jharkin
Just dont let the cat temp get much over 1000 and then turn down half way for a while. Seems when ever i let air stay open and cat reaches 1300 before turning air down she will always slowly climb away
 
Yup
I would not let the stove go cold in this weather by choice. It might not start again.....haha

Even if the stove helps (as it is a space heater only) the central heating system, it is usually a substantial help. I can usually keep my house comfortable using the stove only to temp around 32*F. Anything below that my stove needs help from the central NG system.
Yeah it's a high of about 15f here today so the encore is working hard just to keep the house between 68 and 70.
 
Hi jharkin
Just dont let the cat temp get much over 1000 and then turn down half way for a while. Seems when ever i let air stay open and cat reaches 1300 before turning air down she will always slowly climb away

Yes I've been doing that, shutting down much sooner. Easier to tell if the cat is responding with the at100.

Tonight wirh temp heading to -8f the draft is so strong I reloaded a full load of oak and in under 5 minutes it was roaring. Closed bypass and it hit 1k in literally seconds. Shut it full at that time and it rocketed to 1400+.... Made me nervous and I was thinking about looking to stuff the EPA holes with foil but it stabilised and settled back to 1350.

Funny I'm flipping around the TV and the movie K-19 Widomaker is on.... They are welding the reactor trying to prevent it melting down past 1000C. Kind of ironic....
 
I will hit 1600 at100 on a regular basis. Should I be worried?
And this is with stove top of 400 and the flue probe of 375-400
 
Condar says 1700+ is the danger zone... So if it levels off at 1600 you should be OK.

I worry because when i seen mine start climbing past 1400 it often keeps going all the way to 1700+.
 
I have learned that if I reload with smaller splits that I will have a problem with it climbing to 1700+ lots of time but if I load with large rounds for the night it does not run up like that. I still believe the fuel we feed stove has a lot of impact on the behavior
 
Of course when it is 1 degree outside, I notice that I can't shut the damper all the way. VC Encore 2040 just a year old. We just tried to play with the set screw and that does nothing. It stays open an inch or so. We have to use a pair a pliers to pull it shut, which will not do when there is a fire going.
Any suggestions for other things to try? Also the damper handle is opposite of what it shows in the manual- the manual shows the handle pointing down while ours faces up. I guess this is how it was assembled?
TIA!
 
Oh baby!!! -10 this morning. Reloaded at 9 last night. Filled the stove all the way up to the Griddle. At 8:30 this morning the cat is still rolling at 680 with a GT of 450. I opened the doors and put the screen in so the glass can cool down and I can clean it. I wish my draft was this good all the time.
 
Of course when it is 1 degree outside, I notice that I can't shut the damper all the way. VC Encore 2040 just a year old. We just tried to play with the set screw and that does nothing. It stays open an inch or so. We have to use a pair a pliers to pull it shut, which will not do when there is a fire going.
Any suggestions for other things to try? Also the damper handle is opposite of what it shows in the manual- the manual shows the handle pointing down while ours faces up. I guess this is how it was assembled?
TIA!
Strange. When you pull it shut with pliers is the handle then loose? Can you take the flue collar off and see what is going on that way?
 
I have learned that if I reload with smaller splits that I will have a problem with it climbing to 1700+ lots of time but if I load with large rounds for the night it does not run up like that. I still believe the fuel we feed stove has a lot of impact on the behavior

Definately agree. With really dry wood and stong draft Ive had the problem even on the big stuff however if Im not careful. Last night with the air control completely shut I had the kind of flame show you would see with it half open on a "normal" day.

I lucked out last nigh, the meter shows that it only peaked out at 1430 or so while we where aseleep.
 
Strange. When you pull it shut with pliers is the handle then loose? Can you take the flue collar off and see what is going on that way?

Yes, after we pull it shut the handle has a little play in it.
With the below freezing temps, we're hesitant to start disassembling a new stove.
We purchased it last January but it wasn't installed until late February of 2015.
No wonder I have been burning quickly for the past few days
 
Yes, after we pull it shut the handle has a little play in it.
With the below freezing temps, we're hesitant to start disassembling a new stove.
We purchased it last January but it wasn't installed until late February of 2015.
No wonder I have been burning quickly for the past few days
So when you break the lock nut loose and run your adjuster bolt all the way in there is no difference?
 
Found an air leak by the damper handle between top and back. Made a mess with furnace cement but got it sealed up. I noticed the last time I ran the stove it ran away a little bit I was able to shut it down and open the damper to get it back under control. Running better now even with these -2F temps. Stay warm brothers!
 
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