Are those Dremel rotary bits good for chain saw sharpening?

Depends how bad your chains are, and specifically why your filing results aren't great. I'm sure those bits will cut fine, for a while at least, but then so does a clean, sharp file. You'd still have to contend with holding the tool in the right position, and taking off the right amount of material. Do you use a guide when filing? What sorts of problems have you had?

I bought some on high recommendation from a friend. I wish I had spent the $15 towards the harbor freight benchtop grinder.

It is all about being repeatable quickly. Benchtop setups can't be beat.

I will say that the bench top model from HF is a great tool, and they go on special for $25-30 quite regularly. Some day I may upgrade to a different brand, but this one works so well, why fix something that isn't broken? I did use the Dremel model previously and was quite happy with it. I just found the bench top to be more consistent for my own personal use.

I just hand file. If your guessing your effectiveness at hand filing perhaps a guide will help ?

Let us know how the dremel bits work out. Could be useful to those who want to use the same.

In my opinion it's worth the time to get fast and efficient with hand files. If your cutting for a few hours it's nice to carry hand files with you so you can touch up your chain in the field. If you hit the dirt and still have a lot of cutting left you can re sharpen it on the spot. Any big block of wood with a slice cut in it will do to hold your saw level.

Bench grinding is good if your doing a lot of chain but for the occasional firewood cutter it seems to me a file is fine. The tree service I know and help out they bench sharpen all the chains over the weekend ( we are talking like 40 plus loops for the trucks ) and then just hand file as needed during the week. But for a few chains here and there I think a hand file is good.

It does take a while to get real good at hand filing but I think once you've done it a lot it really doesn't take long. And you can sharpen any condition chain if the file is good. Lots of people forget to replace the files when the stop sharpening as well as they should.

Sprinter said:

How do those grinders work? Do you have to get different size wheels for different size chains, like you do for files? I've never even seen one.

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They are set at a certain angle to match the angle of the blade that does not change. What you can adjust is the angle of the chain/chisel to the wood. Typically that is 20-30 degrees from what I have read. I set mine at 20.

I pretty good at working on things myself, but just couldn't get hand filing down right. I also had no one to show me the right way besides youtube. For me it became frustrating, so I got the grinder...I haven't looked back.

I already had the dremel. Bought the diamond chain sharpeners. I attach the manual file holder with the correct angle marks on it. I hose camp it to the dremel for an accurate angle every time. I think it work well but I have no experience with anything else.

I'm a big fan of hand filing, but been doing it for a long time. It helps to get good at it when cutting in the woods and dull a chain, plus I think hand filing gives you a sharper chain. The stihl 2 in 1 sharpener will help it has guides on the sides to keep the correct angle. I have a lot of friends who use bench top sharpeners they are nice and work well, but like anything they can remove a lot of material from the chain quickly if not careful. My father hand sharpened for years, but got sick of it and got a bench sharpener. He just didn't care for it he went back to hand sharpening for the same reason, he thought the sharpness was better from hand filing. All it takes is some patience and a little time.

Sprinter said:

Meanwhile, though, I have a brand new OEM chain on and I don't think I can improve on that ever.

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I've had new chain that I felt was not as sharp as it could be.

You can run chain down pretty low. The cutters will get shorter as you file them but if done correctly chain will cut for many many filings. I go through too much chain myself not to get every last bit out of them.

Regardless of how you sharpen just remember to file the rakers down every 3rd or 4th cutter filing. I'd suggest using a depth guage for your rakers. If you take them down to much the chain will be grabby . If you don't take them down enough, eventually the chain will stop cutting even if your cutters are sharp and perfectly filed

I have not used the diamond bits, but do have a selection of the stone bits. I like them because they allow you to focus on the angle and use a smooth back/forth motion as opposed to a file where you're focusing on the angle, slight pressure into the tooth and a long, straight stroke in only one direction, then lifting the file away from the tooth, getting it back in the gullet and repeating.

As far as life, truthfully, I usually loose them or break them before they wear out. Though conversely, I'm taking light cuts as a 'touch-up', not trying to hog down a whole chain because I cut through 2" of boiler plate steel on accident. For normal touch-ups, maybe 10-12x through the chain or more before the stone starts to show wear? ...maybe more for the diamond. Even at that rate, you're talking a few cents per re-sharpening.

Definitely no need to remove the chain...that might actually make it hard or impossible to sharpen with the dremel method. Typically what I do... once back at 'home base' and wood is unloaded or otherwise taken care of, I take the saw in the shop, clean it up, give it any routine maintenance, fill with gas/oil, etc. Tighten the chain, then give it a run through with the dremel. The pressure is so light, no need to even use a vise - only a few tiny sparks. But when done, the saw is sharp, clean, full of oil and gas and read to go for the next wood cutting trip, cutting out from a storm, or who knows what else. All I know is it's ready for what ever!

Again, the dremel is more of a touch-up / maintenance work. You definitely won't (can't) use that thin stone to grind a chunk out of every tooth to repair serious damage.

I just got mine due to my hand sharpening skills not being consistent. So far I like it- seems to bring life back to a dulled chain. I'm sure the benchtop grinders do a better job but for my use I couldn't ask for more

If you want good filing in the field, you can get a Granberg jig too. No power needed, consistent results, costs about $35. Does take some practice but less than hand filing.

I have one of the dremel type tools with a guide on it from HD. I take this into the field with me in my pick-up. The pick-up has a 110v outlet and I plug the tool into the outlet on the truck and I can sharpen a chain in less than 5 minutes. really quick and it does a nice job on the chain. Makes it like new.
Much quicker than I can sharpen with a file. I don't need to remove the chain from the saw.

We cut wood that is dead and most is on the ground so an occasional brush with dirt is unavoidable.

mstoelton said:

I have one of the dremel type tools with a guide on it from HD. I take this into the field with me in my pick-up. The pick-up has a 110v outlet and I plug the tool into the outlet on the truck and I can sharpen a chain in less than 5 minutes. really quick and it does a nice job on the chain. Makes it like new.
Much quicker than I can sharpen with a file. I don't need to remove the chain from the saw.

We cut wood that is dead and most is on the ground so an occasional brush with dirt is unavoidable.

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Once you get used to a dremel your hooked. I use a cordless with two batteries. I never tried the diamond stones yet but the stone versions work great. You can touch up or grind off a bunch for big damage its up to you. I use the dremel chainsaw guide on mine for the angle reference only. You will also find lots of other handy uses around the house for the dremel also.

Sprinter said:

What dremel speed do you use for chain cutters?

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I use full speed. Never tried it any other way. Chain always has a little oil on it that helps to keep it from overheating but if you push it too hard it will get red hot in a hurry. Take it easy or you will lose the temper. I found that I like a little upward pressure on the teeth as I am sharpening. I think it gives me a sharper edge than just horizontal pressure. Gives a conical edge across the flat part of the tooth.