Height to make hearth for wood stove?

I have my corner installed raised on a six inch base. I like watching the fire and that's easier at that height and loading the stove is very easy as well. Almost no bending over.

I always thought people raised the hearth so that they would have a place to break their toes.

I just built my hearth for my beautiful Oslo, it is 3 inches high and it looks good. Can't imagine a better view of the fire.
If you want to elevate your hearth have at it, not too hard to do. I prefer the lower hearth.
I built the fireplace at left, that hearth also is 3 inches high that is just right to me.

My Jotul F600 is on a raised hearth that is nine inches up off the floor, which puts the side loading door around 20 inches up for easy loading. While burning I generally spend about an hour each night before turning in watching the fire after my final reload and that height makes for good viewing.

I often wish I had raised my hearth. It makes it easier to load, and the fire view is nicer. Just don't overdo it.

In a quick search I could not locate if the Woodstock Ideal has a stove top to ceiling minimum distance, I would research and factor that into the decision. Also, another consideration is depending on how you are planning on venting the chimney in the corner install, consider the initial length of vertical pipe, I would personally not want to have a bunch of short sections of pipe and also would minimize right angles.

Pictures and install thread of a raised corner hearth in signature link. AFTER I designed and had built the hearth, I realized that the PE has a stovetop to ceiling clearance (was busy fretting about corner clearances and stone design etc and never considered the stove top clearance) I got lucky and was within specs...

I personally like the raised hearth for all the above reasons, but embers etc will travel further from a raised position so do not skimp on the dimension in front of the stove if you decide to jack up the hearth and have wood floors or carpeting around the hearth.

My hearth build; 2x6 treated lumber covered on the top with 4 layers of Duroc Next Gen and then 3/8" slate.

Good luck!

madison said:

do not skimp on the dimension in front of the stove if you decide to jack up the hearth and have wood floors or carpeting around the hearth.

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This is a good point. The front clearance for my stove was 16" and that's what I installed. But I already have a couple of small melted spots in my carpet, and I think Canada's 18" requirement is safer. Maybe even more if it's raised.

ftg05- So 2 inches of Duroc bears that weight without any plywood underneath. What size are those squares of the joists, one foot square?

Mine is about 1.5 " above the oak floor. I under cut the limestone border so the oak floor goes under the stone. For me level would be better. less stubbing my toes and would blend in with the rest of the floor.

Sprinter said:

This is a good point. The front clearance for my stove was 16" and that's what I installed. But I already have a couple of small melted spots in my carpet, and I think Canada's 18" requirement is safer. Maybe even more if it's raised.

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My hearth runs 22" from the front of the stove to the lip of the hearth. I got burn marks in my carpet too.

Height is subjective. I like having the heat box as down low near the floor as I can get it.

Mine is a total of 8.25 inches from floor to slab surface.

I started with top loader and now I have a front loader. I'm glad I have the extra height to make loading and deashification easier.

Also surprise benefit of extra height: It was easier cutting a hole in the floor for the O.A.K routed to the crawlspace. I actually angled the pipe under the hearth away from the bottom wall plate leaving most of it intact.

MisterFixIT said:

Mine is a total of 8.25 inches from floor to slab surface.

I started with top loader and now I have a front loader. I'm glad I have the extra height to make loading and deashification easier.

Also surprise benefit of extra height: It was easier cutting a hole in the floor for the O.A.K routed to the crawlspace. I actually angled the pipe under the hearth away from the bottom wall plate leaving most of it intact.

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MisterFixiT: Very nice looking install. Welcome to the forum.

Sprinter said:

MisterFixiT: Very nice looking install. Welcome to the forum.

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Thanks Sprinter! I have been lurkin and learning here for a few months now after my Lopi Leyden went thermonuclear and got a crack in the back of it late last year. The rear mounted combuster would get clogged with ash and only last a couple years at 200$ a pop. Glad I got the PE. The air control and the stainless baffle is awesome.

MisterFixIT said:

Glad I got the PE. The air control and the stainless baffle is awesome.

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I really don't know if the baffle system of reburning (the "afterburner" according to my wife) is more efficient or not over the tube system, but it seems to be more durable and generally pleasing. And I do think that the unique air control system is a big advantage in controlling the burn by its asymmetrical design. That is, as you slide the control, it changes not only the amount of air, but also the ratio of primary/secondary air. It's just nice and controllable.

electrathon said:

I always thought people raised the hearth so that they would have a place to break their toes.

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Imwith you....I went to great lengths to make the hearth flush with the floor

georgepds said:

Imwith you....I went to great lengths to make the hearth flush with the floor

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I did too. But I still wish I had raised it anyway. Sometimes. When my knees pop.

Really, though, you probably will have to still bend to reload. I just like the looks of a nicely raised hearth and the nicer fire view.

I think a large part is preference but also location dictates if you can do a raised hearth. My future install is going to be in a high traffic area so flush hearth was mandatory. I don't need people tripping every time they pass the stove.