372XP or 562XP??

Both saws are Husqvarna's XP line which are professional grade saws and a significant step up from a 36 and 450. Both also have stellar reputations, the 562xp being in the 60cc class and the 372xp is 70cc class. It all comes down to need. The 372XP can run up to a 28" bar with its sweet spot being 20-24" bars. the 562XP is best suited for a 20" bar. What size logs do you typically come upon? Also to your point, the 562XP has Auto Tune which eliminates the need to ever make carb adjustments. Is that important to you?

I agree both prices are good unless the price is power head only so I hope the sale price includes a bar and chain at minimum. If your heart has been set on the 372XP, then maybe you answered your own question and here is your opportunity. Either saw will hold its value if you take good care of it. Down the road if you decide one is too big or too small for your needs, you should have no problem getting a good portion of your initial investment back by selling.

Personally I've never run a 562XP, but I own 372XP and love it. Whatever you decide let us know and of course we will want pics.

Clyde

The 372 pulls a 24" bar perfectly and the 562 pulls a 20" just as well. Which sized bar would your prefer to run? I think that will make your decision for you. My 562 is essentially my limbing saw, but I really enjoy running it. And yes, power wise I can definitely tell the difference between the 2 saws.

Easy answer - buy them both. Or pick which every model feels better in your hands.

I've got the Jonsered version of the 372xp identical saw and it's certainly a well built and very strong saw. You won't be disappointed with a 372xp if you actually need a big saw and you don't mind the weight. It gets heavy quick when doing jobs that can be easily done with a smaller saw.

If your even wondering and second guessing if you need a 70cc saw then I would by the 562. It is an amazingly strong saw and a good deal lighter than the 372. It's auto tune and it works. I would never buy a new saw again without it.

With a 20 inch bar the difference between that and the 372 is small ( and the 562 pulls a 24 inch bar just fine for firewood cutting) especially if your just cutting firewood and not in a production environment.

Plus the 562 is cheaper.

Go handle them if you haven't already. The 372 is old fashioned big and heavy compared to a 562 which feels ( and is ) far lighter and easier to work with all day long or all weekend long etc

By the way what's he asking for a 365 ? It's a detuned 372. Grind the transfer port cover or pay someone $50 to do it and you have a 372. For far less money.

If you can get a 365 for even less than the 562 then it could be the best deal going. Run it as is you might not even want the extra 1/2 hp of the 372. It's still stronger than a 562 I don't care what the hp numbers are it's bigger and has more torque.

KenLockett said:

At some point could the 562XP be ported and/or modified in general for more output equivalent to a 71CC (equivalent power of the 372SP)? Does being Auto-Tune make this prohibitive and/or difficult? Asking as I've read that the Dolmar 6400 can be ported to create the equivalent of a 70CC saw.

Click to expand...

Sure it could be made to be higher output. But if your talking porting then get a 555 and not a 562. It's the detuned version. If your porting it anyways I'd save the money and get a 555 and have that one ported.

Honestly unless you need a big 70cc saw I think you will be amazed at the power of a 562. Id probably get the 562 and call it a day. And if you need a 24 inch bar it runs it fine. In a cutting test against a 372 it's soooo close. If your cutting cookies and timing it sure 372 all the way. In the real world for a firewood cutter it's a very small difference and a non issue for many people. A properly sharp chain is way more important.

I have a 555 with 20in bar and 372 with 24in. I like the way the 555 starts and the way the 372 cuts and sounds. Both excellent machines but I wanted a 372 in fear they will quit making it.

KenLockett said:

Woodhog73, I have used the 372XP and my 450 side by side and it is amazing the difference in the saws. Almost as if the 450 is but a toy. Do you think I am going to get the same impression and awe running the 562XP and 450 side by side or at least close compared to the 372XP.

Click to expand...

Yes the 562xp will be huge night and day difference over the 450.

Now the weight of the 372 is such that it may play into your mind when your going back and forth from it and the 450 and magnifying the difference in your mind.

The 562 is far lighter than the 372. But when cutting big oak it's within a whisper of the 372. Both the 562 and 372 will leave the 450 in the dust when buried deep in hard white oak. It's a fact unless it has a dull chain on it of course.

The AutoTune would have to be brought to the dealer if there is an issue. The 562 is still going to be a massive improvement over the 450. I notice the power difference between the 562 and 372 mainly when burying the nose in big Oak. They're both great saws. Like I said earlier, pick a saw based on what size bar you'll be running for the majority of the time.

You've mentioned the Dolmar 6400 a few times. It's a strong saw, lots of torque but heavy for its power output. Sure you can have it ported but most people upgrade theirs with a new piston and cylinder to make it 79cc. Give us more details about your cutting habits. I justify keeping a 70cc and 80cc saw around because of the agreement I have with a local tree service. He brings me large diameter logs because he knows I have the tools to process them. He has a long list of people he delivers to but no one wants the big stuff so he brings it to me. Works out great for both of us.

Clyde S. Dale said:

You've mentioned the Dolmar 6400 a few times. It's a strong saw, lots of torque but heavy for its power output.

Click to expand...

On paper it is but when cutting it's hard to notice. I've run one several times over the years and it cuts like a 70cc saw should.

I hear ya on the big logs. I've got lots of big wood myself in standing trees and there are times I'm glad I have a 70cc saw. Even a few times I wanted bigger. But that said I still run my 50cc saw probably 90 percent of the time. It just works in most situations.

To the OP I really think you will be amazed at how strong a 562 is. Plus it has auto tune. That's a big bonus. And lastly if your limbing with it especially in thick overgrown woods, big oaks with limbs over your head , etc, the 562 is far better handling as a limbing saw and far easier to live with hour after hour while in the woods. Limb with it and buck your big oaks no problems it won't even break a sweat

Keep us posted on your choice and how it performs. You can't go wrong with Husqvarna XP equipment. I sold it for over 10 years and since left the business. Miss it every day.

Ken in regards to the auto tune and repair like others have said it probably needs to go back to the dealer.

It's a valid concern if the auto tune breaks in 5 years out of warranty what will it cost you ?

Don't know. But it's a $700 dollar power product I would think at most a new auto tune could be $ 100 to $200 ??? Not sure honestly but the industry is going this way with auto tune being the norm etc

I haven't worked on a Husky AT saw yet, but I recently fixed a problem with an M-Tronic Stihl 441. The Stihl's control system has three major components - a special ignition coil that contains sensors, a "trigger unit" that sits directly on but outside of the carburetor, and a tiny solenoid valve located under the trigger unit, replacing the conventional mixture screws. The saw I worked on passed basic mechanical checks (compression, pressure and vacuum) and was misbehaving in ways a conventional saw never would, so it was clearly an autotune problem. None of the AT components are repairable, so it was just a question of which one to replace. In the case of the saw I was working on, several clues pointed towards a bad solenoid valve. That's the cheapest of the three components too (about $20) so I bought one, installed it, and it did the trick. Installing the solenoid required a small Torx security bit, which I already had in my tool box thanks to a sensor replacement I did on my wife's Volkswagen about 8 years ago.

I suspect DIY repair of autotune systems will end up being a lot like DIY sensor-related repairs in modern cars, in that failures of certain components will produce specific symptoms, and once these saws have been around a while there will be plenty of online discussions leading amateur mechanics to the right solutions with a fair degree of reliability. I'm a fan of being able to actually see the defects I'm trying to correct, which I usually can with conventional saw problems. This is not like that. I'm cheap, so it will produce some anxiety for me to feel uncertain about which parts I should buy, but I don't think it's going to be a huge problem over the long term. Aside from the handful of AT components, these saws are basically built like any other.

KenLockett said:

Thanks guys for the input. Will probably just see how they both feel in my hands then make a decision. Claydogg, for the majority of the time I would probably just use the 20" bar for weight purposes. With that said even if I were to have a need for a 24" bar at times sounds like either saw is capable.

Click to expand...

The 562 handles the 20" bar perfectly, you'll love it. Not that it's relevant, but the tree crew here at work hates the Stihl saws with their version of AutoTune. I haven't had any issues with my 562, but it probably has under 5 hours on it.

I have all three....350 (similar to 450), 372XP, and 562XP. I've had the 562XP a year now....I don't think I've started the 372 during that year. I have 24" bar on 372...18" on 562. Most of what I cut 18"....and the 562 is amazing. AMAZING. I am quite certain it has reduced my bucking time by many hours (maybe 30%?) compared to running primarily the 350. Amazing. 372XP likely would make the same difference in cutting time of course, though, it is MUCH heavier and bigger. I can run the 562XP all day....the 372XP would get very heavy...and way to much for limbing.

If you aren't routinely in need of a big bar, and maybe even if you are, I personally strongly recommend the 562XP. No problems so far with autotune...will be disappointed when I pay the bill if there is. I got a 5 year warranty from my local shop by buying some husq oil mix.

if you are considering a dolmar you could save another $55 by getting this...http://www.chainsawsdirect.com/cutters/dolmar-6100-series-chainsaws.html

Husky is the way to go then. I would avoid the auto-tune personally and depending on price get the 365xp as someone else mentioned earlier. I would immediately void the warranty and turn it into a 372xp.

By the way I had a 562xp and it is a GREAT saw. I traded it because of the auto-tune and the crooked front handlebar, I like control of my hi-speed and straight handlebars.

The 562xp felt nice and nimble though.

If you buy one you will be happy with it.

P.S. The muffler should be immediately opened up and gutted for maximum smile factor!

Wildo said:

Husky is the way to go then. I would avoid the auto-tune personally and depending on price get the 365xp as someone else mentioned earlier. I would immediately void the warranty and turn it into a 372xp.

By the way I had a 562xp and it is a GREAT saw. I traded it because of the auto-tune and the crooked front handlebar, I like control of my hi-speed and straight handlebars.

The 562xp felt nice and nimble though.

If you buy one you will be happy with it.

P.S. The muffler should be immediately opened up and gutted for maximum smile factor!

Click to expand...

Was your 562 an early model ? I have read about problems with the very first auto tune Husky saws. First few production runs had issues. It's been sorted out is what I thought.

I've got a newer Jonsered 2252 ( same as Husky 545 ) and no problems with the auto tune at least not yet. Lots of pre mix run through it and the auto tune still works great.

I agree on getting the 365 and doing the transfer port mod if the price is right.
And if you don't mind voiding your warranty.